For those of us that don't have the self levelers there is a dilemma. Actually more then one. Thr first being that a very high percentage of new trailers have only as much frame as required to handle the load. That is metal thickness. Gone are the days when manufacturers ordered up a truck load of channel or 'I' iron and welded up something that could be used with variations in length for their product line. It's pretty dang thin and these days, that frame is from a single source supply. I really don't want to put that ram end of a bottle jack against the frame of a 5 to 8 ton 5th wheel and hope nothing bends. Of course you wont have the full weight of the trailer at that point but maybe 20%. The next alternative (dilemma?) is jacking under the axle at the springs and on the spring U-bolt plate. Great if you don't have underslung axles like so many new and light weight (HAH!!), including mine are equipped with. Yes, I could use something like a Rapid Jack or pull the other wheel up on a stack of of Legos or a stack of lumber - but what if I was parked and just wanted to lube wheel bearings and hooking up the truck would remove my vehicle from possible use - like chasing parts when the daily driver is gone for the day. Or I could jack on the equalizer - NOT!!! Maybe in the 'good old days' but recall that thin steel frame....... What I'm thinking of for my use is a jacking plate to span under the axle with legs that contact the spring just on either side of the axle and welded up from 1/4" or 3/8" stock. If nothing else, a little project to wile away some evening instead of mowing the lawn, painting the shutters or *gasp* polishing the camper.
Like I said, a dilemma these days on how to jack a trailer that doesn't have self leveling
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')