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Old 06-30-2015, 05:36 AM   #15
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I've only used a Trailer-Aid at this point, but I think maybe two sturdy bottle jacks, two jack stands and some 4x4 or 6x6 wood blocks would be a really good thing to have. Greasing hubs, adjusting brakes, getting two tires off at once to run to a tire shop are all reasons to have these if you don't have auto levelers.

2015 F350 XLT PSD CCSB SRW, Andersen Ultimate hitch
'12 Cougar High Country 299RKS, Mor/Ryde Pinbox
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:17 PM   #16
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Forest River's Cedar Creek even advertise the Lippert 6-point level up system as being able to raise the entire camper up with the tires off of the ground and provides a photo of this in their catalog. This was one of the selling features to me, was the ability of raising the trailer and working on the axles as needed.

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Sold: 2010 318SAB Cougar:New: 2016 Cedar Creek 34RL. 2008 Dodge 6.7LCummins the original 6.7L engine, w/68RFE Auto
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jimcumminsw View Post
Forest River's Cedar Creek even advertise the Lippert 6-point level up system as being able to raise the entire camper up with the tires off of the ground and provides a photo of this in their catalog. This was one of the selling features to me, was the ability of raising the trailer and working on the axles as needed.

Early literature from Lippert even stated just this. Then their lawyers got involved and it was no longer advised. Some RV manufacturers still use the older Lippert endorsement. Bottom line is it's perfectly safe but if a valve failed, nobody wants to be underneath without tires on. What are the odds of that though? Not a worry for me... Lightning strikes too but I can't hide in my basement all day...
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:41 AM   #18
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For those of us that don't have the self levelers there is a dilemma. Actually more then one. Thr first being that a very high percentage of new trailers have only as much frame as required to handle the load. That is metal thickness. Gone are the days when manufacturers ordered up a truck load of channel or 'I' iron and welded up something that could be used with variations in length for their product line. It's pretty dang thin and these days, that frame is from a single source supply. I really don't want to put that ram end of a bottle jack against the frame of a 5 to 8 ton 5th wheel and hope nothing bends. Of course you wont have the full weight of the trailer at that point but maybe 20%. The next alternative (dilemma?) is jacking under the axle at the springs and on the spring U-bolt plate. Great if you don't have underslung axles like so many new and light weight (HAH!!), including mine are equipped with. Yes, I could use something like a Rapid Jack or pull the other wheel up on a stack of of Legos or a stack of lumber - but what if I was parked and just wanted to lube wheel bearings and hooking up the truck would remove my vehicle from possible use - like chasing parts when the daily driver is gone for the day. Or I could jack on the equalizer - NOT!!! Maybe in the 'good old days' but recall that thin steel frame....... What I'm thinking of for my use is a jacking plate to span under the axle with legs that contact the spring just on either side of the axle and welded up from 1/4" or 3/8" stock. If nothing else, a little project to wile away some evening instead of mowing the lawn, painting the shutters or *gasp* polishing the camper.

Like I said, a dilemma these days on how to jack a trailer that doesn't have self leveling

Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
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