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Old 06-07-2015, 09:23 PM   #1
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Lippert 6pt auto Level...

OK!...I'm all set-up and level! after a few days I think it needs re-leveling! ... This is a 2015 DRV with the 6pt Lippert... Can I just turn on the system and push Auto level again??

...Or just go the manual route.... which I did once before?
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:33 PM   #2
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I don't have your system, but I would do a re-level. It can't hurt anything and you could always use the manual route as a backup.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:21 PM   #3
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When I re-level I go to manual mode to check what degree I'm off, front to back or side to side, then manually redo it. I think I remember reading that if you continually use auto level it will keep raising your rig each time eventually raising all your tires off the ground..
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Old 06-08-2015, 06:42 AM   #4
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You said you "think." Why do you think it needs that?
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Old 06-08-2015, 06:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBL Z View Post
OK!...I'm all set-up and level! after a few days I think it needs re-leveling! ... This is a 2015 DRV with the 6pt Lippert... Can I just turn on the system and push Auto level again??

...Or just go the manual route.... which I did once before?
The way the 6-point auto level is set up on our DRV, the first step of auto level is to dip the front of the rig down. This is to avoid having the system starting to level from somewhere that's way too high - like the point where you raised the front of the rig to lift it off your hitch. For that reason, I would avoid using auto level just to tweak the level, especially if you want to try to do it with the slides still out.

Before you re-level, you can scroll through the menu to see what the status of the level currently is, both front to back and side to side. If the rig settled and you want to tweak the level, I think it would be better to do it in manual mode.

When scrolling through the menu looking manual mode, just be careful not to hit "auto retract." Been there, done that.
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:30 AM   #6
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I would go into 'manual' mode and just tweak the unit. The other option is to manually lower the rig then try 'auto level' again.
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBL Z View Post
OK!...I'm all set-up and level! after a few days I think it needs re-leveling! ... This is a 2015 DRV with the 6pt Lippert... Can I just turn on the system and push Auto level again??

...Or just go the manual route.... which I did once before?
I have the 6-point level up system on my Cedar Creek 34RL. The unit has a display and several control buttons with two arrows and a digital display. In the center information panel there are four words front, rear, left and right along with this diamond patterned is several LED light bulbs. In the center the LED bulb is green if this is still green than you are still level. If you are out of level the orange lights up on the side that is not level. The display will also inform you if you are level or not.

Why do you think you need to re-level are the cylinders (legs) leaking down? If so this is an issue and the dealer needs to address this problem. I have not seen a schematic but there should be pilot operated load checks in the hydraulic plumbing to prevent cylinder (legs) collapse when the system is off. Since the cylinders (legs) are supporting a load.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsport View Post
When I re-level I go to manual mode to check what degree I'm off, front to back or side to side, then manually redo it. I think I remember reading that if you continually use auto level it will keep raising your rig each time eventually raising all your tires off the ground..
From my experience the part of raising the rig higher on the second auto level is true though I never did it enough to get the whole thing off the ground.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:27 PM   #9
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Why do you need to re-level at all? What's going on and why?

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Old 06-28-2015, 02:13 AM   #10
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Our 16 39TKSB3 it was 2 1/4" lower in the front than the rear. I shot a lazer level under the RV then measured the bottom of the frame at each corner. I re adjusted to where it was actually "LEVEL" and set re level.

What gave it away it was not level was the bathroom door always swung towards the front.

So don't trust that the auto level is actually level!
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:15 PM   #11
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We have found that the "bathroom door" test is is the most accurate way to measure side to side. I get different levels when checking the floor, island counter, etc. If using a level, I measure the interior steel frame beams at the top of the basement storage area. In theory these should be level with the frame, and be subject to less error in the way of bending than any wood surfaces that I can place a level on.
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:44 AM   #12
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When I'm level my refrigerator door stays where it's opened to..
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:10 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
Our 16 39TKSB3 it was 2 1/4" lower in the front than the rear. I shot a lazer level under the RV then measured the bottom of the frame at each corner. I re adjusted to where it was actually "LEVEL" and set re level.

What gave it away it was not level was the bathroom door always swung towards the front.

So don't trust that the auto level is actually level!
You have to get it calibrated level before auto-leveling. When mine was installed they checked the level on the counters, floor and frame. Sometimes I still wonder about it though but have the bedroom door for a side to side level check and the toilet seat for fore and aft level check. I've found that I can make minor adjustments to one set of jacks and still get the green level light.
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:24 PM   #14
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You have to get it calibrated level before auto-leveling. When mine was installed they checked the level on the counters, floor and frame. Sometimes I still wonder about it though but have the bedroom door for a side to side level check and the toilet seat for fore and aft level check. I've found that I can make minor adjustments to one set of jacks and still get the green level light.
My point was it came from the factory 2 1/4" lower in the front than the rear. That is sad.

I have it perfectly level now by using a lazer lever to adjust the 4 corners of the bottom of the frame to be parallel to the lazer light beam.

If you want your RV to be level set "LEVEL" to what the RV is built on, the frame.
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