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Old 09-21-2016, 06:52 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by EQSystems View Post
The way I measure pinbox flex is this:

Pick a spot on top of the pinbox that's pretty much straight below a flat spot on the front cap, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark it with a pen or marker. Then pick a spot on the front cap, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark the tape. Measure the distance between the two points with the unit off the truck (or tripod if you have one). Now, lower the unit onto the truck or tripod so that your landing gear is completely off the ground, and measure the distance between the two marks. That the difference between the two measurements is the your flex. Anything more than 3/4" is too much.
That method will UNDERSTATE the amount of flex. On some brands, the sidewalls sit on angle steel welded to the side rails and as the side rails flex, so does the sidewall with the front cap attached to them. This is what causes the Fiberglas skin to crack since the rear portion of the sidewall is attached to the main frame rails behind the front legs. Even brands that don't use angle steel brackets, the sidewall is still attached to the forward frame rails by some method.
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:56 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayle1 View Post
That method will UNDERSTATE the amount of flex. On some brands, the sidewalls sit on angle steel welded to the side rails and as the side rails flex, so does the sidewall with the front cap attached to them. This is what causes the Fiberglas skin to crack since the rear portion of the sidewall is attached to the main frame rails behind the front legs. Even brands that don't use angle steel brackets, the sidewall is still attached to the forward frame rails by some method.
Very true, but if all we're talking about is the pinbox itself, then the flex in the wall structure is irrelevant.

This was what I previously stated about sidewall issues: Another issue that will cause sidewalls to crack is broken welds in the wall structure itself, usually caused by excessive flex. This will also cause the screws through the angle iron in the goose neck into the bottom of the wall structure to snap, and sometimes even break the angle right off the frame. If you've got an 1 3/4" flex from unhooked to fully mounted on the truck, that is wayyyyy to much.

Before coming to Equalizer Systems, I was a service tech for a major manufacturer for years, and have dealt with every aspect of frame flex, sidewall cracks, and structure defects. The real bottom line is that the reason you see many fifth wheels with a "relief crack" already in the wall under a slide out is because with the current materials being used to build these units and the construction methods as such, there's nearly no way to eliminate excess flex. So, the answer becomes to just give the stress on the wall a place to go with out causing further damage.

Hopefully this all helps someone!
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:50 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by EQSystems View Post
Very true, but if all we're talking about is the pinbox itself, then the flex in the wall structure is irrelevant.

This was what I previously stated about sidewall issues: Another issue that will cause sidewalls to crack is broken welds in the wall structure itself, usually caused by excessive flex. This will also cause the screws through the angle iron in the goose neck into the bottom of the wall structure to snap, and sometimes even break the angle right off the frame. If you've got an 1 3/4" flex from unhooked to fully mounted on the truck, that is wayyyyy to much.

Before coming to Equalizer Systems, I was a service tech for a major manufacturer for years, and have dealt with every aspect of frame flex, sidewall cracks, and structure defects. The real bottom line is that the reason you see many fifth wheels with a "relief crack" already in the wall under a slide out is because with the current materials being used to build these units and the construction methods as such, there's nearly no way to eliminate excess flex. So, the answer becomes to just give the stress on the wall a place to go with out causing further damage.

Hopefully this all helps someone!
I agree x2
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:58 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by EQSystems View Post
Very true, but if all we're talking about is the pinbox itself, then the flex in the wall structure is irrelevant.

This was what I previously stated about sidewall issues: Another issue that will cause sidewalls to crack is broken welds in the wall structure itself, usually caused by excessive flex. This will also cause the screws through the angle iron in the goose neck into the bottom of the wall structure to snap, and sometimes even break the angle right off the frame. !
I think owners need to understand the full magnitude of the flex and all the components. When an owner feels there is too much flex, he has no understanding of where the flex is occurring. Then he can also look for changes over time. From my experience there are 2 major components, flex in the gooseneck frame rails (which is the major cause of sidewall cracks) and flex/twisting in the two cross members holding the pin box brackets (which causes problems with front closet doors, interior paneling, etc). Loose pin box bolts is another possibility, but much easier to fix.

Anyway, I found that measuring to a point on the front cap understated the total flex and may give an owner a false sense of being OK.
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Old 09-30-2016, 07:25 AM   #19
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like to know, I ordered EQUAFLEX number 279688, have a 09 Big Horn 26 ft 5th wheel, 12000 lbs. Is the weight for 1 axle or 2???
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