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03-23-2016, 04:42 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 644
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Max PSI for rim?
Currently have 225/75/15 Load range D tires on the camper and was looking at going to an E load range tire. Not sure how I would know what my rims max psi are rated at. Any way to know for sure?
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03-23-2016, 05:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 644
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got it figured out.....the back of one of the spokes on the wheel was stamped max 5/2150 6/2830. I have a 6 lug wheel so it looks like I'll be good to go to 80psi and an E range tire.
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03-23-2016, 05:16 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,958
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If you are running within manufacture load rating then you should not have to worry about max pis for your rim. What is your normal cold psi?
My rims are rated at 120psi. My new tires are rated 120psi. I run 110psi and I always set it when the temps will be around what I am going to be driving in, if possible. A good TPMS is a good tool to install. It will alarm if one of your tires is beginning to have a problem. They usually begin to overheat before they fail.
__________________
Rick & Melissa Young, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Frtliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox, EEZ TPMS, TruCenter steering control
Servants On Wheels Ever Ready. Best job we ever paid to do . (full time volunteers)
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03-23-2016, 05:20 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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The pressure on the sidewall of motorhome size tires is not the maximum the tire should ever have. It's the minimum to support the maximum rating of the tire. The max wheel pressure is totally different.
Right now I'm on the computer at work, if I remember I'll come back and post the cites from the various tire companies and magazines saying the same thing.
Our 2002 Dutch Star needed 125 psi in the tires (tires rated to 130 psi), wheels were only rated to 120. Michelin wrote us a letter allowing the tires to be rated at the 125 psi load with only 120 psi in them. Never had a problem with that even though the tires were overloaded according to Michelins charts.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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03-23-2016, 06:45 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 644
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right now I have D range tires that max at 65psi. I just wasn't sure the rims were rated for an e tire. I technically don't need the e tire for my weights but it also won't hurt anything jumping up a load range. I just wanted to make sure my rims were rated for the higher psi. I know you're supposed to run max air in tires but I've just never felt comfortable doing that so I also stop a little short of max. I run 60 in my D tires and will run 70-75 in the E tires.
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03-24-2016, 08:03 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Yankton, SD
Posts: 324
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Tire pressure has a direct relationship to the amount of weight the tire will hold, up to the max weight rating. Reducing tire pressure, reduces weight capacity.
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George
2011 Ford F350 DRW
2015 Mobile Suites 41RSSB4
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03-24-2016, 08:06 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Yankton, SD
Posts: 324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
got it figured out.....the back of one of the spokes on the wheel was stamped max 5/2150 6/2830. I have a 6 lug wheel so it looks like I'll be good to go to 80psi and an E range tire.
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I guess that 5/2150 means a five spoke wheel, 6/2830 means a 6 spoke.
I dont see anything about pressure which is what you are asking about.
__________________
George
2011 Ford F350 DRW
2015 Mobile Suites 41RSSB4
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03-24-2016, 08:40 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 644
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2830 are E tires at 80psi. That's what I took that to mean.
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03-24-2016, 09:10 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
2830 are E tires at 80psi. That's what I took that to mean.
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That's exactly right. Most RV trailer wheels are weight rated to corresponding tires. There's only so many sizes of trailer wheels and tires. MFGs of the wheels and tires are sync'd.
This site will show the weight rating for the rims. They don't show psi for the rims. The tires show a load rating and psi. It's not hard to match things up.
Tredit Tire Home
You'll be just fine running E's on your rims if they're rated for 2830lbs
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03-24-2016, 09:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,445
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Don't forget to have the valves up graded too.
Better to have a metal valve installed and be at 40% of it's rated capacity of 200 PSI. Than use rubber valves at 100% of their rating.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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03-24-2016, 09:55 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,536
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Sendel publishes load and PSI ratings.
S20T | Sendel Wheels
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03-24-2016, 12:53 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D
The pressure on the sidewall of motorhome size tires is not the maximum the tire should ever have. It's the minimum to support the maximum rating of the tire. The max wheel pressure is totally different.
Right now I'm on the computer at work, if I remember I'll come back and post the cites from the various tire companies and magazines saying the same thing.
Our 2002 Dutch Star needed 125 psi in the tires (tires rated to 130 psi), wheels were only rated to 120. Michelin wrote us a letter allowing the tires to be rated at the 125 psi load with only 120 psi in them. Never had a problem with that even though the tires were overloaded according to Michelins charts.
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Please be careful with this thinking Mr D: " It's the minimum to support the maximum rating of the tire." This is very wrong as stated. The MAXIMUM cold psi is what is stamped on the tire. All the tire manufactures I have read state boldly not to exceed this value when adjusting the "cold" tire pressure. You are correct about this value being the correct psi when running your tires at max load rating.
Having a 4 point weigh plus a total weight will help in determining what you need for your coach per axle. The place card from the RV manufacture indicated the correct cold PSI when running at max rated load. When running underweight there is no problem in setting the cold psi to the weight chart per axle (not wheel). The heaver wheel is the correct psi value for that axle. This practice may even give a bit better ride if you are able to drop the psi significantly per tire manufactures recommendations.
This topic is always hot and contested. I mean no disrespect to you or anyone else. It has been a very troubling safety issue for me over the years. I had a blowout when I thought I was doing everything correctly. Doing an in-depth study on this topic, I finally got it straight. What I stated above is the correct thought process and conclusion. Please forgive me for coming across so strongly in my conviction. Please see beyond this flat world we are communicating in. My intent is to save you all unnecessary trouble, time off the road and even lives.
To all, Happy trails and many safe ones,
Rick Y
__________________
Rick & Melissa Young, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Frtliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox, EEZ TPMS, TruCenter steering control
Servants On Wheels Ever Ready. Best job we ever paid to do . (full time volunteers)
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03-24-2016, 02:11 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 644
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I've read here and elsewhere how contested tire threads can get. There's so much info it gets blurred at times I think. There's also strong opinions on how to do things. At the risk of sending this thread into a tailspin I'll post *my* choice.
I bought the 5er in 2010. It came with freestar tires on it. They've been good tires and show no visible signs of anything being wrong with them but year 6 and 11,500 miles later it's time to change them. I stayed with the same brand of tire only going to an e rated tire. I like to stick with things that work until I'm proven wrong. If these tires burn me then I'll call it a learning lesson and move on but 6 years and 11k+ miles is enough to get at least 1 more set out of me. I know some will agree and some won't but it was my decision and my 5er so I'll live with my mistakes the same as my success'.
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03-25-2016, 10:29 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
I've read here and elsewhere how contested tire threads can get. There's so much info it gets blurred at times I think. There's also strong opinions on how to do things. At the risk of sending this thread into a tailspin I'll post *my* choice.
I bought the 5er in 2010. It came with freestar tires on it. They've been good tires and show no visible signs of anything being wrong with them but year 6 and 11,500 miles later it's time to change them. I stayed with the same brand of tire only going to an e rated tire. I like to stick with things that work until I'm proven wrong. If these tires burn me then I'll call it a learning lesson and move on but 6 years and 11k+ miles is enough to get at least 1 more set out of me. I know some will agree and some won't but it was my decision and my 5er so I'll live with my mistakes the same as my success'.
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If you are satisfied then stick with them. On motorhomes, the Michelin tires for RVs are an odd size. Michelin tires have a few issues that many of us have decided to avoid by going to other brands.
__________________
Rick & Melissa Young, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Frtliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox, EEZ TPMS, TruCenter steering control
Servants On Wheels Ever Ready. Best job we ever paid to do . (full time volunteers)
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