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Old 05-04-2019, 09:17 PM   #1
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Max temperature for Atwood GE16EXT

I'm looking for what the high temperature should be for an Atwood GE16EXT water heater as measured iside the heater tank, not at the facet. Any factory specs for that number?
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:26 PM   #2
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T-stat that controls heating cycles is set to open at 155*F
Mixing Valve is set for 130*F out (based on the 155*F IN)
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:53 PM   #3
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I was hoping you would reply. I've followed threads you posted on about water heaters.


As measured with an IR thermometer the temp at the relief valve is 138 and only 93 at the kitchen tap, directly above the heater. I suspect either the ECO or the mixing valve. I get the same temps heating with gas or electric. Any ideas?
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:31 PM   #4
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Not the ECO....is is the Energy Cut Off T-stat (High temp t-stat)
It is set to open at 180*F


T-stat is issue.......water is not heating to full temp
T-stat for EXT models has a 'Pin' connector (brown wire) vs spade connector


Are you original owner of RV?
If t-stat has a small spade connector then previous owner changed it to a standard Atwood t-stat (set for 140*F)


Either way.......

Need to replace T-stat
T-stat/ECO come as a pair.......EXT Model is Atwood 91547
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...-eco-kit-91547




Mixing valve could also be an issue......separate one
If hot out of tank (hot in to mixing valve) is clogging up from calcium/crud then more cold water will be mixing with the hot coming in resulting in much lower hot out to system (130*F OUT is based on that 155*F IN)
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:53 PM   #5
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Thanks

I’m second owner. But have had this rv for five years and this is a new issue coming out of winterization. I did a major tank flush this evening and got lots of scale and fine black sand like material out . Tank gets cleaned at least once a year. Spent last summer in Canada and Alaska. The city water connection has a whole house filter built in but the gravity fill was not filtered last summer, it is now.

Wonder about adding water strainer, pump type, between heater and mixing valve to keep larger junk from entering?

The brown wire is a pin connector.

I carry a spare t-stat set onboard and can change out in am.

I’ll report back after that, thanks.
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:58 PM   #6
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Before installing new t-stat set.......
Clean contact area on tank wall so t-stats make a solid contact with tank
AND make sure they are TIGHT to tank wall
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Old 05-05-2019, 12:10 PM   #7
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Just an update. The spare T-stat set I've been carrying is 91447 the 140 F limit version. I've ordered the 91547 set and will be back after it arrives in a few days.


Thanks again.
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Old 05-05-2019, 06:25 PM   #8
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The existing T-Stat has a round connector for the brown wire and the tap hot has always been very hot.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:17 PM   #9
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I git the new 155 F thermostat set (Model: 91547) installed today and ran the water heater on both electric and gas for about 2 hours. After which the gas burner was off, so it reached what ever temperature it was set for. However, that replacement did nothing to resolve the original problem. Water at the tap is still about 80 and at the pressure valve on the tank still reads reads 130F.


What are your next ideas? I'm suspecting the control board, opinions? If the tank temp was near 155 and the tap temp low I'd call it the mixing valve. The drop between the tank and tap temps seems about right for the mixing valve.
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:56 PM   #10
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Suspect that the Mixing valve is clogged on HOT in....so cold water is diluting what little bit of hot is getting into mixing valve




Are you using an IR Gun to measure temp of the T&P Relief Valve?
Not a true measurement of water temp
With water heat cycle complete....turn water supply off then catch water from T&P in a jar/cup with a bulb thermometer to measure water temp


CAUTION: 155*F will cause Instant Scalding
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:12 PM   #11
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I've been opening the relief valve with a short hose section (18") attached and dump about 2 gallons into a bucket and use IR gun to measure that. That should be pretty close since IR guns only measure surface temperatures. Same inside at the tap, fill a plastic cup with full hot after letting it run for a short while. Normally the straight hot would be much too hot to use.

I could grab a bulb thermometer but I doubt the IR gun is off by 25 degrees. The tap hot reading at 80-90 is only luke warm by feel.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:38 PM   #12
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OK.........


TWO bad t-stats???
Could be.


When heating cycle stops (propane goes off) check DC Voltage on both sides of t-stat
Brown wire to t-stat (bottom connector) should have DC cause On/off switch is still ON
Brown wire from t-stat (top connector) should NOT have DC cause t-stat opened


Test if t-stat is issue.....remove t-stat from circuit.
Unplug the 2 brown wires and connect them together
Run a heating cycle ....ECO opens at 180*F
Water from Mixing Valve should be 150*F (or so) unless it is clogged






Too bad no shutoff valve on cold to mixing valve
Could close it and then check temps...should be as hot at faucet as at water heater...no cold mixing
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:47 PM   #13
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Thanks, will test in the AM. I did buy two thermostat packages, one for spare.
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Old 05-10-2019, 11:51 AM   #14
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Update- Its been snowing this morning at the house and I think I'll wait until it breaks some to resume troubleshooting the water heater.
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