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Old 09-18-2016, 06:53 AM   #1
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Need new shocks

2011 F250 4x4 6.7 towing 34 foot Montana High Country installed ride rite air bags to help smooth ride but still bouncing a lot on our good interstates bridges was looking for something else to smooth the ride and was thinking new shocks, any information on smoothing out the ride would help.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:17 AM   #2
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I'd try a set of air bags first. We had the same problem with our new AF 27-5. I tried adjusting my air bags with the onboard compressor, but it didn't seem to help. When I looked closer, we were just on to the spring overloads. Went up a bit more pressure on the airbags, just enough to get off the overload spring, and the chop went away. I'd try a set of air bags first.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:41 AM   #3
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I also have air bags on my 2013 superduty . After putting on a set of Bilstene 5100 shocks it solved my problem while pulling my 5er.
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:46 AM   #4
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You may also look at your pin box. If you just have a standard pin box on the 5er, you are probably getting some chucking there. MorRyde and Trail Air may be worth considering.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:32 AM   #5
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You just cannot stop some jounce from many of those lousy bridge approaches and departures. But with that said, and if you still have the original shocks on ANY Ford Super Duty, do yourself a favor and have some Bilsteins, Rancho 9000 series or even KYB shocks as I have, installed. No, there wont be 100% cure, but for sure will help. The air bags should have between 30 and 40 psig if your HC is pretty much as shipped weight which is what I run with our HC 38 footer, hauled by a LBCC. FWIW, I have never had chucking with a conventional pin box tied to a B&W hitch over ~15,000 miles though if the B&W base to truck cams if equipped are loose, they will clank.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:45 AM   #6
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"But with that said, and if you still have the original shocks on ANY Ford Super Duty, do yourself a favor and have some Bilsteins, Rancho 9000 series or even KYB shocks as I have, installed."

Having owned 1 F250, 2 F350s and now on my 2nd F450, I agree 100% with the above...

Joe
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:49 PM   #7
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We were going to do airbags, but our mechanic suggested springs that don't engage until the truck gets loaded. We haven't used them yet but will next weekend.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:57 PM   #8
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All Ford vehicles are inherently undershocked.

On my F250 diesel, I switched over to Bilsteins from the OEM shocks, and they felt better. But at $75 each they didn't last any long than less expensive brand name shock absorbers.

I switched to Monroe's heaviest duty shock from Rock Auto @ $25ish each. They feel just as good as the Bilsteins for 1/3 the cost. And at that price you can afford to change the shocks relatively often. I honestly don't know how RockAuto can sell shocks for the prices they do.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:53 AM   #9
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new shocks

Thanks for all the information.

was looking at the Bilstein shocks and read on a review that the front required a bushing has anyone had this problem?

I also got information from firestone on the ride rites that the best way to make sure the air pressure was right for your load was to measure the bags that they should always be between 5 and 7 inches with all loads.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:51 AM   #10
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Not aware of any 'bushing' needed on any shocks on common pickups. Every shock I have ever purchased came with rubber bushings (2) and steel keepers (4) and correct nuts if a stud mount is used.
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Old 09-20-2016, 05:35 PM   #11
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I also don't know of any 'bushing' needed for Bilstein shocks. On my '06, it was R&R accompanied by the appropriate cuss words for the front top nuts.

As far as air bag pressure, measure the truck rear bumper height before you hookup then after. Additionally, the trailer should be close to level. Crawling under your truck to measure air bag height just doesn't necessarily set the 5er at the correct running attitude - level
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:19 PM   #12
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For Bilstein shock install, note the hex dimple in the top of the front shock mounting stud--that is to use an allen wrench to keep it from rotating while tightening the nut... I did not notice that until I had them on...and on a Ford, there should be a rubber cap for the stud on the driver side to keep from rubbing on the nearby lines.
Monroes have a flat spot to use an open-end wrench.
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