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Originally Posted by Cameraman
1. If you were replacing tires, is there a specific brand you'd be asking for?
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In size LT235/85R16E, I'd insist on Michelin XPS Rib. Expensive, but worth it. I wore out more than one set on my tow vehicle. Don't believe the folks that claim that just any LT tire is okay for trailer service. The tire must be a commercial truck tire rated for all position service. All Position means steer axle, drive axle, or trailer axle. I know of only other all-steel LT tire that is rated as an all-position truck tire, and it one made by Goodyear - with the same limitations in available sizes as the XPS.
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2. I asked about battery and dealer offered a second house battery for about $70. Is that a reasonable price?
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Not bad price, but be sure the battery is a marine battery or a deep cycle - not an ordinary starter battery. I bought an Interstate Marine/RV deep cycle battery last week, and it cost less than $80.
Even better is an Optima Bluetop battery, but they cost over $200.
Marine Battery | RV Battery | BLUETOP® :: OPTIMA® Batteries
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4. Dealer mentioned a warranty package ... Is it worth it?
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Most aftermarket warranties are designed for only one purpose - to increase the profit of the selling dealer. Don't buy one until you have researched that subject for several weeks. Read the fine print to understand all the exclusions it will not cover. Most of them won't cover anything you want covered.
For an aftermarket warranty on my tow vehicle there is only one I would consider - the Ford Extended Service Plan (ESP). Those come in various prices, depending on what they cover, and they are sold by and fully backed by your Ford dealer and Ford Motor Company. I don't know of a similar warranty for an RV, but maybe some of the old-name RV manufacturers have them and will back them up the way Ford backs up the ESP.
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5. I don't have any preference of what 1 ton truck I buy... any strong feelings about which is the best to purchase?
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Just be sure it is a dually. The so-called one-ton pickups with single rear wheels (SRW)will probably be overloaded over the GVWR of the tow vehicle when towing any 5er with GVWR more than around 12,000 pounds.
I'm a Ford fan, so I would probably order a new 2014 Ford. I don't enjoy hunting for used pickups, but if I found a used 2011-up Ford F-350 DRW or F-450 with the diesel engine, I'd probably buy it if the price was substantially less than the actual cash price of the new one. But I could probably be talked into a late-model Ram with the Cummins diesel engine. I don't have any use for a GM tow vehicle.
Be certain it has the heavy duty towing package. That's standard on a 2011-up Ford SuperDuty, but may be optional on other brands. Gotta haves include increased radiator cooling, HD transmission cooling, engine oil cooling, integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC) and towing mirrors. On a new Ford with the better trim packages, the towing mirrors are power telescope as well as power folding. Lesser trim and the tow mirrors are manual telescope and manual fold.
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Should I get a long or short bed?
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Real trucks have 8' beds.
Ford no longer makes a shorty dually, so you have no choice if you buy a newer Ford. GM and Ram still make them. The shorty will work fine if you pay the big bucks for a Pullrite SuperGlide hitch. They work okay with a manual slider hitch such as a Reese slider, if you promise to
NEVER shift into reverse gear until
AFTER you have slid the hitch. You probably cannot turn sharp enough to result in cab to trailer contact when going forward, but when backing you can have a
CRUNCH in a heartbeat, and that will ruin your day.
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6. I'll obviously need a hitch for the new truck. Any suggestions on which way to go with that?
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If you order a new Ford, be sure to order the fifth wheel/gooseneck hitch prep kit. It's a bargain. Also order the fifth wheel hitch that goes with it. Expensive, but worth it.
If you go aftermarket,
be certain you don't buy a cheap hitch, such as the Reese Pro Series or the Curt or Husky bottom of the line. The Reese mid-grade hitches are fine, including this one:
Reese Reese 16K 5th Wheel Hitch 30047
I towed with that hitch for several years, after I threw away a Pro-Series.
That Reese hitch has in-bed bedrails. If you want a clean bed when the hitch is removed, you have to go up in price to the Reese Elite Series. Installation of the Elite Series is a lot harder and more expensive.That's the one that Ford installs at the factory if you order that option. The bedrails are under the bed. All you see when the hitch is removed is a few holes with a plastic stopper in them.
Reese Elite Series Pre-Assembled 18K 5th Wheel Hitch 30142
Drawtite and Hidden Hitch are the same company as Reese, so you can buy either brand name and get the same hitch.
Another way is to install a B&W Turnover Ball gooseneck hitch, then add a B&W Companion fifth-wheel hitch. The Companion plugs into the same hole in the bed as the gooseneck ball, so when the hitch is removed, nothing is left in the bed but the hole for the ball plus two tie-downs for the gooseneck safety chains.
B&W Turnover Ball
B&W Companion Fifth Wheel Hitch BW-3500