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Old 07-07-2011, 08:59 PM   #15
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Even if you are within axle and tire limits (which will have you over Fords GVWR and GCWR ratings) a trailer of that size and weight should really be on a DWR truck. The training wheels in the back really help stabilize the trailer and truck.

This may not be what you want to hear, but towing with a DRW truck is much more pleasant than a SRW.

Ken
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Old 07-07-2011, 11:52 PM   #16
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When I spoke to Tom Johnson Camping about buying this 5th wheel they assured me I would have no issues. Was I lied to?? I definitely was very clear on letting them know I was very worried about my truck towing this trailer.
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:53 AM   #17
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Unfortunately, most dealers aren't knowledgable about computing towing capacities of a truck and only want to move units off the lot. I'm convinced that some dealers would have sent you off the lot with that 5th wheel if you had driven in with a 4 cylinder automatic Ford Ranger.

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Old 07-08-2011, 06:28 AM   #18
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The one comment that stood out to me awhile back in a discussion of SRW vs. DRW was what happens if you loose a rear tire... That was all I needed to think about.

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Old 07-08-2011, 08:05 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troyrice76 View Post
Was I lied to?? I definitely was very clear on letting them know I was very worried about my truck towing this trailer.
A dealer out right lie.... But they will sure stretch the truth a bit.

Problem is most of the knuckle heads out there selling have never pulled an RV and were selling used Yugos last week. The salesman's job is to sell trailers and not educate you.

There are a few honest dealers and salesmen, but they are WAAAAYYYY in the minority.

He is right that your truck will pull the trailer....comfortably or even safely, probably not.

Last weekend there was a fellow with about a 37' Mobile Suites and a 2500 Chevy Duramax. When he pull end, that poor truck looked like he ws ready to take off with the back end setting so low.

You seldom hear of any complaining about too much truck, but you do hear from the ones that do not have enough.

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Old 07-08-2011, 08:33 AM   #20
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I do have the 20" wheels on my truck. They came with the Lariat package.
Check the rating on the sidewall of your 20" tires(what brand are they) to see if they are "f" or something else. That tells you how much weight they handle. Truck and RV manufacturers are notorious in putting the minimum rated tires on (which are based on "empty" weight of truck or RV. To help with the RV bouncing and chucking, we had a 5th Airbourne extended hitch installed on our 5'er. It has an air bag and a shock inside which helps a lot. Put about 20psi in air bag on 5th Airbourne. You ARE getting very close to "max" on trailer. Agree, RV salesmen will often tell you what you want to hear to sell an RV.
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:09 PM   #21
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The tires on the 5th wheel and truck are both E rated tires.
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:14 PM   #22
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The tires on the 5th wheel and truck are both E rated tires.
E rated tires are pretty good. Mine on the 5'er(35 ft long, two axle, 12,000 empty) say 3000 lbs (16inch Goodyear RV tires). Those are too low a rating. One blew out and I replaced it with E rated Goodyear. My E tires(Michelin 18 inch) on my F250 say 3640 lbs. Your 20 inch should be more. Does you 5th wheel have two or three axels? Your tires on truck should also say how many lbs they will support at max air pressure(it is in real small print!). If your 5th wheel has two axels, you are still close to max or possibly over.
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:46 PM   #23
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The trailer has 2 axles.
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:36 PM   #24
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When I spoke to Tom Johnson Camping about buying this 5th wheel they assured me I would have no issues. Was I lied to?? I definitely was very clear on letting them know I was very worried about my truck towing this trailer.
You have the truck and trailer already. So its wasted effort telling you what should have been done or bashing the dealer.
We can only guess if your truck is over any weights. You need to weigh your truck empty then hook the trailer and weigh again. That is the only way you will know if your over any of the trucks weight numbers that matters.

Many new gen 14k trailers have 4k-5k CCC with a 11k-12k shipping weight and a 9xxx lbs gross axle weight and a 1900-2200 dry pin weight.

If your overweight then at that time decide if you want to mod your current truck or purchase a higher capacity truck or purchase a lighter weight trailer.

Ya' gotta' have actual weight numbers first.
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:21 AM   #25
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The only difference between a 2500 and 3500 are the rear springs unless you have a dually. Every other part including the rear axle and frame are exactly the same. Your truck will pull it, you just need to set up your suspension a little better. Play around with the air pressure in your bags and if that doesn't solve it maybe look into some better shocks. You could probably install a 3500 overload spring pack without too much trouble if you are mechanically inclined. This would make your 2500 a 3500. Also remember to put most of the weight in the trailer over the trailer axles, not up near the front where your truck is taking most of the weight.
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:26 PM   #26
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Got the truck weighed yesterday.

Steer Axle 5040 LB
Drive Axle 3480 LB

Gross Weight: 8520

So this leaves me with 1480 for the Pin Weight to be within spec.

My front GAWR is 5600 and the rear is 6100. If you subtract actual weight for the drive axle 3480 from the GAWR 6100 you get 2620. How come this would not be the amount left for the pin weight?

This was with a full tank of Diesel and my Son. I plan on taking the Raptor over this week fully loaded to get its weight and see exactly what my Pin Weight will be.

Another question is the Trailers Axle weight. What is that. Actual weight of the axle or the rated weight it can support??
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:22 AM   #27
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Don't really understand all these ratings. We tow a 12,000(loaded) Outback with a 250 GMC durmax diesel. No problem - go up hills as fast as my pocket book can stand.

For what it's worth, man I bought the truck from hauled a 15,000 toy hauler for several years and said no problem. My truck runs fine and 12+ MPG in tow mode. Good luck
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:26 PM   #28
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Towing overweight is like smoking. It only matters if you get sick from doing it. Using a tow vehicle that is outside its legal limits only matters if you get in an accident. Then, because it's unsafe as deemed by the manufacturer, you are responsible. A good attorney will eat you and all you own for dinner.

Frankly, I have too much to loose so, I tow within the ratings of my truck and carry a 2,000,000$ umbrella policy to protect me and my family from hungry attorneys.
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