Norcold Refrigerator Question

[Magicalwoman]

We have a 2018 KZ Durango Gold 5th Wheel. Our fridge is a side by side RV fridge. Lately it seems to run 24/7 and even set on 9 the temp never goes below 45 or 50. We have tried just electric power, and then just propane. Not much difference. Things are frozen in the freezer section, but ice cream is not rock hard as you would think set on 9.

We live in our 5'er fulltime and are stationary. We just had our yearly inspections done for our forever warranty.

Doing a bit a research we have read Norcold fridges are famous for this. Anyone run into this problem.

We did double check the exterior vents and they are clean. Thanks.

[RoadrunnerII]

Check for frost on the thermister on the fin inside the fridge. Move it near the top of fin. Do a search on muddypaws mod. Personally I pulled our fridge out. Slide insulation above the fridge and slide roof, and insulated and sealed up the false wall on range side.Also ensure there is a baffle from top of fridge to bottom of top vent if in slide. Make sure the fans run in the back chimney. Freezer runs - 4*F on 78*F. Fridge is 33-35*F on number 5 setting
Our trailer is a 2017 Jayco 321rsts

RoadrunnerII

[jdpm]

I ordered our 2014 with the 1210 Norcold. It never cooled properly. I was so tired of the run around between Norcold and the RV manufacturer that I took it out and installed a residential.
Personally, I would not even waste my time trying to figure it out. Especially since you are stationary I'd go residential. You'll have more consistent reliable cooling, less power usage and more storage.
The Samsung 18 takes up the same space (cabinet wise) as the Norcold. Its virtually silent. Ours has been trouble free in 4 years of travel use in Florida and the SE USA. We love it.

[Jthigh]

Check for ice buildup on cooling fins in fridge. Thermostat sensor will not read air temp correctly. We put a small battery operated fan in ours to blow on fins. This keeps ice from forming on them.

[Magicalwoman]

We thought about doing that. Seems like a good option.

[Magicalwoman]

We did check the fins and no ice build up at all. We could only wish ours would run at the temps mentioned in the earlier response. I guess we will have it looked at and see what they say. It is under warranty.

[Old-Biscuit]

Thermistors measure FIN Temp not air temp (10*F lower then air)
Fridge thermostat is calibrated for a temp range based on temp setting 1-9.
Moving thermistor will NOT affect that...thermistor just provides feedback of temp
(Models with 'Auto Temp Control'---moving thermistor up/down on fin can affect overall temps 6*F-8*F)




What model is your Norcold???
Fridge in a slideout......External fans MUST run

What is freezer temp?


If freezer temps are 10*F or lower then not enough ammonia vapor is being condensed into cold liquid which absorbs the heat from freezer FIRST then from food compartment.
COLD liquid ammonia saturated with heat from freezer then nothing left over to absorb enough heat from food compartment to drop/maintain food compartment temps


Airflow/draft required to flow up thru absorber tubing (large slanted tubes) and then across Condenser Fins (at top) -----Condenser section is where the hot vapor ammonia is condensed into a cold liquid ammonia which then supercools when mixed with the hydrogen gas

[ramn4ver]

Norfolk 811 here double fridge. We also full-time. I've done 4 types of improvements to try and fix this problem I've had over the last 4 years. I finally got it licked so far. Most of the issues were with the fridge on the right hand slide. The slide wall was getting so got from the sun hitting it all day all. #1 fix. I installed a 1.5" foam insulation board on the outside wall.
#2 installing fridge fin cooling fan.
#3 installed directional metal shield on top of back of fridge to get the heat out the vent.
#4 added extra fan outside, lower vent side, to push fresh air over cooling coils.

[ramn4ver]

Heres a few pics

[ramn4ver]

Also added this deflecting shield too force the air over the coils.

[Old-Biscuit]

'ramn4vr'
It is unfortunate but those 'mods' were necessary because the RV MFG did NOT properly install your fridge. Too big of clearances at back of fridge, lack of fans due to being in slide and dead air space at top of fridge. ALL of that is addressed in the INSTALLATION Manual that is supplied by Fridge MFGS




Majority of 'lack of cooling' issues are direct result of RV MFG not doing a proper install.....even with instructions from fridge mfg.

[ramn4ver]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

'ramn4vr'
It is unfortunate but those 'mods' were necessary because the RV MFG did NOT properly install your fridge. Too big of clearances at back of fridge, lack of fans due to being in slide and dead air space at top of fridge. ALL of that is addressed in the INSTALLATION Manual that is supplied by Fridge MFGS




Majority of 'lack of cooling' issues are direct result of RV MFG not doing a proper install.....even with instructions from fridge mfg.

Your right on the money there....

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by ramn4ver

Your right on the money there....

Installation info...starts on pg 12
http://www.primetimerv.com/download/...1V_Install.pdf






'magicalwoman'

What model is YOUR fridge??
1200, 1210, Polar X ???????

[MtnTrek]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Airflow/draft required to flow up thru absorber tubing (large slanted tubes) and then across Condenser Fins (at top) -----Condenser section is where the hot vapor ammonia is condensed into a cold liquid ammonia which then supercools when mixed with the hydrogen gas

^^Agreed.

Check these fan(s) are operating properly, and the baffle is directing the draft air properly in the chimney.
High temps, direct sunlight are a drawback on performance.
Even shade for the lower exterior vent can help.