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Old 10-29-2013, 05:09 PM   #43
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Steve,
I do stand corrected. Our unit is an Atwood 10 gallon. Wife and I do both get hot showers, but we use the on/off valve on the showerhead.
Info on the tankless is good to know! Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:28 PM   #44
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Steve,
I do stand corrected. Our unit is an Atwood 10 gallon. Wife and I do both get hot showers, but we use the on/off valve on the showerhead.
Info on the tankless is good to know! Thanks.
Thanks for the reply...I don't really want to spend the $500-$800 for the tankless, but when we are at campgrounds (unlimited fresh water and sewer) we would really like to have a "regular" shower. Plan to do it when our 6 gal Atwood starts to malfunction.

Still gonna have to do the on/off/on thing when boondocking.

Plus I hate using CG common baths but that's just me.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:55 PM   #45
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We had a 6 gallon water heater in our previous 5th wheel and have a 10 gallon one now. We have always taken back to back showers and done other household chores involving hot water without any issues. I cannot remember a time when we ran out of hot water. I am not a long shower taker though. I did not take long showers when we owned a house.
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:09 PM   #46
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The other piece of info people are not including if they are using LP, 120V, or both at the same time.
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:32 PM   #47
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We just run ours on electric. I do not think we have ever run it on gas.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:01 PM   #48
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The other piece of info people are not including if they are using LP, 120V, or both at the same time.
This is a VERY GOOD point.

I have never owned a dual power LP/120VAC model water heater - but considered adding a "Hot Stick" until I found that Atwood and Suburban said it would void the warrantee and was unsafe. Don't know if that's true, but I know what my insurance company would say if it malfunctioned.

Camping World has the dual power units:

Suburban 10 Gal - $586
Suburban 10 Gallon LP/Pilot/Electric Water Heater - Suburban 5060A - Water Heaters - Camping World

Atwood 10 gal - $922 - Ouch!!
Atwood XT Water Heater 10 gallon LP/120V/DSI - Atwood Mobile 94026 - Water Heaters - Camping World

Only the Suburban unit gives specs for "recovery" gallons per hour (GPH) = 16.4 GPH on LP and AC.
That's pretty good. I guess I could live with that, if I had one in my RV.

Now to compare a tankless...it is "at least" 90 GPH (1 shower at 1.5GPM).
I think in that comparison it's advantage -> tankless.

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Old 10-29-2013, 07:02 PM   #49
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You mention you have one in your home that you really like, we are moving shortly and the house we bought has a standard 50gal electric. What type is yours in your home as we will no doubt upgrade somewhere down the not too distant highway!
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:15 PM   #50
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You mention you have one in your home that you really like, we are moving shortly and the house we bought has a standard 50gal electric. What type is yours in your home as we will no doubt upgrade somewhere down the not too distant highway!
Noritz - whole house - 4 years old next month.
On-demand Hot Water Heater | On demand Gas Water Heaters
Bought it when the old one (gas fired) failed and picked the one rated for our house (3 bath).

I am not invested in Noritz, but I LOVE THAT THING!! We went from a 50gal standard (Natural Gas) water heater to the Nortiz and have been saving 70% on our natural gas bill per month ever since (we cook and heat with gas too...but it never really gets cold in San Diego). This saving is not 70% on cost, but the actual fuel saving = called "therms" on our bill...so you can figure your own savings based on local fuel prices.

The price was $2800 installed (a little more than usual because we moved it to a different corner in the garage) with all required plumbing and such. AND that was almost 4 years ago. They probably cost a bit more now - but might be more efficient too. AND, don't forget to ask about state energy benefits to help the cost - if any.

Best luck
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:33 AM   #51
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I have installed the RV-500.
When I first heard of tank-less water heaters, I wanted one, but never acted.
When I bought this RV, it was the first thing I did.
Now I will never exist in any dwelling without one.

One problem I have, I don't know if it is related to the RV-500 or just normal plumbing.

The water pressure in the park I'm at seems to be shared with everyone else.
So you could be in the shower and the pressure drops, then your flesh burns.
You step out of the lava flow and turn up the cold, get the temperature warm again, then the pressure changes again and your flesh freezes.
A 20 minute shower turns into a 2 hour dance with fire and ice.

There are few days where no one seems to be using the water, and you can really enjoy hot water till you prune.

I only use LP for the shower and it has been 5 months and I still have 1/4 tank LP left. It does good in that respect, however I do wish it was electric or switchable between Gas/Electric.

In conclusion, I am glad I have it, and couldn't imagine ever going back to a tank.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:09 AM   #52
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The water pressure in the park I'm at seems to be shared with everyone else.
So you could be in the shower and the pressure drops, then your flesh burns.
You step out of the lava flow and turn up the cold, get the temperature warm again, then the pressure changes again and your flesh freezes.
A 20 minute shower turns into a 2 hour dance with fire and ice.

There are few days where no one seems to be using the water, and you can really enjoy hot water till you prune.
I'd suggest you turn off the city water and use the MH water tank and pump until you need to refill the water tank. That should end your pressure variations. If you wish to stay connected, a good adjustable pressure regulator might reduce the fluctuation a bit.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:36 AM   #53
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I'd suggest you turn off the city water and use the MH water tank and pump until you need to refill the water tank. That should end your pressure variations. If you wish to stay connected, a good adjustable pressure regulator might reduce the fluctuation a bit.
Fluctuating water pressure is not just a water heater problem...

In these situations, I combine the city pressure and the on-board water pump to maintain an even pressure.

The water pump on most RV's can be run at the same time the RV is connected to city water. The pump will sense pressure and start running when the pressure dips below the preset (often about 50psi).

A pressure regulator cannot increase the pressure coming in from the city water, so by using both supplies, the dips and spikes from shared campground water systems will be reduced while still saving water in the on-board tank.

Safe travels
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:54 PM   #54
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Fluctuating water pressure is not just a water heater problem...

In these situations, I combine the city pressure and the on-board water pump to maintain an even pressure.

The water pump on most RV's can be run at the same time the RV is connected to city water. The pump will sense pressure and start running when the pressure dips below the preset (often about 50psi).

A pressure regulator cannot increase the pressure coming in from the city water, so by using both supplies, the dips and spikes from shared campground water systems will be reduced while still saving water in the on-board tank.

Safe travels
I tried that, however the water pressure coming in was almost a trickle, the water pump had nothing to work with.

I was thinking about the tank Idea, would be nice If I could have the city water connected with an Internal triple switching mechanism; to turn it off, switch to filling the tank, and connect to plumbing.

I don't know how long the tank would last, and going outside to bring the hose around to the refilling hole while covered in soap and a towel, cause the shower cut off mid rinse, would not be fun.
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:02 PM   #55
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I tried that, however the water pressure coming in was almost a trickle, the water pump had nothing to work with.

I was thinking about the tank Idea, would be nice If I could have the city water connected with an Internal triple switching mechanism; to turn it off, switch to filling the tank, and connect to plumbing.

I don't know how long the tank would last, and going outside to bring the hose around to the refilling hole while covered in soap and a towel, cause the shower cut off mid rinse, would not be fun.
The water pump doesn't use incoming city water to keep pressure, it uses fresh water tank water.
So you combine fresh tank water and city water to keep pressure at a higher minimum point.
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:58 PM   #56
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The water pump doesn't use incoming city water to keep pressure, it uses fresh water tank water.
So you combine fresh tank water and city water to keep pressure at a higher minimum point.
Are you sure?
I turned on the pump and it didn't seem to be pulling from the tank.
I had a full tank, I'll check tonight to see if it is down at all.
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