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Old 07-15-2015, 07:07 AM   #15
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My limited research on this resultedin a big variable from a stix n brix compared to a rv. S n B has dedicated pressure and flow, rvs are exposed to every cg is a different pressure and flow. This can even change hourly during peak useage. I know we use regulators on the supply hose to the cg hookup but this does nothing for low pressure situations. This changes yet again when boondocking using water pump.
We have insulated our 10 gallon waterheater well and see no reason to change it out. Recovery time is very quick. Parts are cheap and maintance is easy.
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:36 AM   #16
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No hot water!

We have a brand new Thor Ace 27.1 first time out we have NO hot water
It is a 6 gal Atwood system.
Seem to have done everything right.
Help please
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Old 09-18-2015, 06:22 AM   #17
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We have a brand new Thor Ace 27.1 first time out we have NO hot water
It is a 6 gal Atwood system.
Seem to have done everything right.
Help please
Not really the right thread but here goes:

1. Have your checked the bypass is set to fill the tank? If you are not sure turn off the water pump and disconnect the hose. Open the panel outside the unit and you will see the business side of the tank. Unscrew the nylon plug in the side of the tank and see if water comes out. You should get ~ 6 gallons running out with no pressure so you can screw the plug back in while it is flowing. If there is not a lot of water the winterization bypass is set wrong.

2. Once you have water in the tank turn on the gas heater switch then go outside and see if the flame lights. If not then check the propane. If your stove lights the propane is on and you have a burner problem on the HW tank burner.

If you did not have water in the tank and tried to run an electric element you probably either burned the element out or blew a fuse/popped a breaker if you were lucky.

**If you cannot get the propane to light and/or the electric is not working consider your comfort zone and whether or not you need professional help.**

If you are comfortable but need more help all you need to do is ask. I would be inclined to start a new thread and list what you did and what you found.
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:25 AM   #18
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We have a Rennai in our home. It takes a minimum flow to get the burner to ignite, then a few seconds to make 120 degrees and send it on to the open faucet. This causes a big waste of water, and that is something I don't think you want in an RV, unless you are in a resort for the winter. I think you would be much better off with a good insulated tank type WH.

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Old 09-18-2015, 05:41 PM   #19
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I don't understand given all the problems l have read , what anyone wants a tankless heater for. You hardly ever read squat going wrong with a regular water heater vs reams about a tankless. How much hot water do you need for a decent shower ?
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:36 PM   #20
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We have a Rennai in our home. It takes a minimum flow to get the burner to ignite, then a few seconds to make 120 degrees and send it on to the open faucet. This causes a big waste of water, and that is something I don't think you want in an RV, unless you are in a resort for the winter. I think you would be much better off with a good insulated tank type WH.

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I don't understand given all the problems l have read , what anyone wants a tankless heater for. You hardly ever read squat going wrong with a regular water heater vs reams about a tankless. How much hot water do you need for a decent shower ?
The tankless water heaters that have been having most of the problems are the ones made by Girard. I've seen only three complaints about the Precision Temp tankless water heaters, such as the RV500. One was from some character who bought his from a mobile RV tech who claimed to have removed it from the RV of an elderly woman who was frightened by it every time it fired out (I suppose she only used it on Sundays). Another was from a guy who swore up and down it was an RV500 but described symptoms that would apply to a Girard. The third one seemed to be genuine. Otherwise, I've seen nothing but praise for the Precision Temps from owners. Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor, a RVIA certified RV tech, has endorsed them.

The Atwood tankless water heaters were codesigned with Precision Temp but they do not seem to be taking off. I've seen only a few reports on them and they were reporting problems with them.

The German made Truvas look promising but I have yet to see any reports from actual users yet. They bear watching, watching.

Tankless water heaters aren't for everyone. Fulltimers or campers who never camp without hookups will be the ones who would be interested in having one. Boondockers most likely would not because of the temptation to use more hot water just because more is available. However, as long as one doesn't get carried away and use more hot water than they would have otherwise, tankless water heaters can actually reduce propane consumption since the water is heated only when needed. Campers with several people using the shower one after the other would especially benefit from a good tankless water heater that is designed for RVs. Comparing residential tankless water heaters, especially electric ones, to RV tankless water heaters is comparing apples to kumquats.
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:56 PM   #21
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Comparing residential tankless water heaters, especially electric ones, to RV tankless water heaters is comparing apples to kumquats.


A tankless water heater is the same technology and the same general device no matter if it is in a house or an RV. Electric tankless versions use a terrific amount of electricity, even for a short time, and wouldn't be very good in an RV.
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Old 09-21-2015, 03:48 PM   #22
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A tankless water heater is the same technology and the same general device no matter if it is in a house or an RV. Electric tankless versions use a terrific amount of electricity, even for a short time, and wouldn't be very good in an RV.
Actually, no, it's not the always the same technology. The implementation of the technology is often radically different The Girard's use a constant or semi-constant rate burner, which is the primary reason people have so much trouble wit them. Because of the constant rate burner, they have to be used radically differently than other water heaters; you have to adjust water temperature at the point of use by varying the flow of the hot water instead of blending hot water with cold water.

Other RV units that do use variable rate burners vary somewhat in how they work. One significant difference is the small water tempering tank used in the Truva's not used in the Atwood and Precision Temp units to ensure a more even water temperature without spikes and dips in temperature. Not all home units have provisions for freeze protection, either. Many RV tankless units either have an electric heater or burn gas at a low level to prevent freezing. The Truva's also burn gas for freeze protection but also have an option to constantly recirculate hot water to maintain a certain temperature in the pipes at all times. Not all home units will do that.

You are correct that electric units capable of providing an adequate stream of sufficiently hot water would use far more electricity than a RV would have available.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:13 AM   #23
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I used to worry about the 10 gallon Atwood in our Montana when we bought it last Spring. However, after living in it full time for the last 4 months with two adults, two teenagers, and two Boxers, I no longer even think about it.

The Atwood we have can heat about 20 gallons per hour to scalding temp in electric mode. Boost it with propane, and it heats even faster.

I do have an Oxygenics shower head, and we use the shutoff valve to conserve a bit. However, we still use about 15 gallons per shower with more than half of that from the hot side. All four of us can shower with maybe 15 minutes between without ever running out.

Now, if we ever install a washer/dryer, I'll revisit this. For now, we're good with the conventional 10 gallon heater.
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:59 AM   #24
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We have a 10 gal unit, have not ran out of hot water yet. I had a couple tank-less heaters in Europe, definitely a different world using them. I will stick with my current one.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:01 AM   #25
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Actually, no, it's not the always the same technology. The implementation of the technology is often radically different The Girard's use a constant or semi-constant rate burner, which is the primary reason people have so much trouble wit them. Because of the constant rate burner, they have to be used radically differently than other water heaters; you have to adjust water temperature at the point of use by varying the flow of the hot water instead of blending hot water with cold water.

>snip<
Actually you just described the same technology and the adaptations to make it work. The tech is the big burner on demand to heat the water as it passes through instead of a smaller burner heating a tank over time. All the rest is implementation.

Adjusting the flow to get the temperature is about as dumb an idea as it gets. One wants a given flow at a given temperature. Period.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:48 PM   #26
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"In our home we had an on demand system and loved the endless supply of hot water were looking forward to the same luxury in the 5er."

I'm waiting for a great answer as that is at the top of my list for boondocking. I would totally abandon a class A for that luxury.
Don't get the Atwood tankless. It doesn't work for rving.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:41 PM   #27
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We have an Atwood tankless in Southwind 34A. Initially, no hot water at all. Dealer replaced undersized connection (per OEM) to increase flow. Now operation is intermittent. Atwood spec requires 1 GPM to fire burner. Measured flow in shower is .75 GPM (3 qt/min) through shower head. Stamp on head says 2GPM max. With shower head removed, we get 5qt/min hot only, 6 qt/min full hot & cold. WH fires on full hot but as soon as the cold valve is opened to moderate temp, flow through heater falls below 1GPM and shuts down.

Has anyone found a fix?

Are the tank and tankless heaters "drop in" replacements for each other? If dealer cannot make a usable shower would it be simply a parts exchange to switch to tankless?
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:00 AM   #28
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I don't own one of these but ran into that at the sticks & bricks we had. At the house I was able to open up the flow restricter with a drill bit but don't know on the RV. IF you are on a full hook up and can stand to use that much water turn the hot water on a partial turn in the sink, then turn the shower on. The combo of the two should meet minimum demand and keep the heater on.


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