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Old 03-23-2013, 03:49 PM   #1
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ordered a Trailair Tri-glide

Just ordered the Trailair tri-glide to replace the 1621HD on our Sunnybrook Raven. Did alot of back and forth on what to get, and think if I'm gonna replace the pinbox I might as well take care of the up/down and forward/back at the same time. Only time will tell if the money was well spent. We never did notice the up/down but I hope this will take alot of the stress off the Raven.

Mike
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:07 PM   #2
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We love ours...I won't own another 5er without it. I think you're going to like it...
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:46 PM   #3
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any advice or is it different hooking and unhooking? Or advice?
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:20 PM   #4
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Nothing is different about it. You will have to raise the front end a bit more when hooking up, but, the process is the same. Have the plate hit the hitch about half way up and let the TrailAir compress as it rides up and into the hitch.

The only thing to be a little wary of, until you get used to the hitch... Don't go by how the unit is riding, in regards to where the arrow meets the top half of the shock absorber, until you've gone some distance. The act of hooking up will cause an erroneous correlation until you've gone a few feet with the trailer and the system has settled onto the hitch. I think the first couple of weeks I used it, I was always having to adjust the air pressure; it would read too much when I hooked up, but, when I stopped a couple of hours later for a break, it was low... I learned to just hook up and go, stop at the entrance to the road (out of traffic naturally) and then look to see if it needed air or not. I have an air compressor with twin storage tanks in the front storage bay and can add air anytime. Turns out that I only need to adjust air with a big change in altitude or about once every 10 days or so to account for gradual leaks, probably at the valve; the rest of the time, by the time I get to the road out of the CG, it is reading just fine without any adjustments at all.

Whatever you do, don't ignore the grease fittings. You should give them one squirt (9 zerks) every thousand miles. I usually do them once a week. We go for 3 or 4 months at a time, several times a year, and Sunday is my check air, check propane, lube things that squeak, etc. day and I just added the zerks to that program. I have a rechargeable Lincoln grease gun that I use and it only takes about 2 minutes to get the gun out, squirt the zerks and put it away.

For the comfort to work ratio, it is a "reasonable" price to pay
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:23 AM   #5
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Thank You Webslave for the reply and info.

Mike
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellcat View Post
Just ordered the Trailair tri-glide....

.....I hope this will take alot of the stress off the Raven.

Mike
After a 'Google' search, found the web site & video on this equipment.

I worry about the extra leverage this places on the head of the frame. Other than the damping air bag, it looks like there is quite an 'arm' with the pin position so far ahead of stock.

Seems like the design should have the 'hinge' forward and the bag with pin right under the original position.

Am I paranoid or could this be an issue?
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:27 PM   #7
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Paranoid

The TrailAir (mine anyway) is about 5" longer than the pin box that came stock on the 5er. There are many pin boxes with a much larger extension. Not enough leverage difference to matter. If you look at the stock pin box; a 1621, it is the "extended" type and the pin isn't directly under the frame and the extension isn't near as extreme as the Sidewinder pin box. As for hinge placement...the 5th Airborne probably is patented (front hinge/rear air bag) and that is probably the reason for the TrailAir's reverse positioning. From a purely mechanical standpoint though, the greater effective distance in the TrailAir's lever point would make it more effective by decreasing the amount of force needed to activate the air bag and shock (the greater length decreases the amount of force necessary to "trip" the system).

The air support and the shock absorber reduces the "shock" of any bouncing that you encounter (the main object of the hitch and it works extremely well) reducing the felt shock from the road. From personal experience, the front end of my 5er now floats over bumps as opposed to the frame jarring jolts that occur when a stock pin box is used. No jolts and no jarring means less strain and stress on the front frame members and the rest of the trailer and, definitely, less strain and stress to the occupants of the TV!
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