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Old 09-23-2015, 08:58 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Technobody View Post
Having read some of the replies I would have to reject what a 5er must be. Find the coach you want with the floor plan and bucket list requirements. We have a 30ft true four seasons coach which loaded, weighs in a 9,800 pounds via CAT Scale and we tow it very easily with a 1/2 ton Ford F150 with an Ecoboost engine. As a norm I pass transport trucks going up 7 degree inclines with very little effort. So when you say it must be a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, I say NUTS!
Not doubt the turbo charged Ecoboost can move a huge load. I had one and it was amazing how quickly it could move my 12500 TT. What people have said is it's not the towing capacity that is typically the limit, it's payload and rear axle weight limits. How are your numbers GVWR rear axle when you hooked up?
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:49 PM   #16
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We have a 2013 Forest River Surveyor 5th wheel and in the owners manual it specifically states the unit is not made for full timing. They state the unit can't take the constant moisture. Since we almost always have the air on or windows open I'm sure we can minimize any moisture issues that may arise. Also, our unit is insured with State Farm and they specifically stated the insurance we purchased was not for full time use. It may be good to double check with your insurance company.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:46 PM   #17
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Wally Byam once pulled one of his Airstreams with a bicycle. That was on level ground. I suspect that he would not have wanted to be in front of it going down a hill. Often the reason for recommending an F250 or F350 class truck is the stopping power, not the pulling power. Larger trucks have larger brakes.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:50 PM   #18
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The brakes on the truck stop the truck, and the brakes on the trailer stop the trailer. Its the one time that the trailer brakes fail that you want to make sure your truck is up to stopping both.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:52 PM   #19
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For me a full-time fiver would have washer/dryer, large closet, lots of slides for added space, tub/shower, larger water heater, large frig, freezer, ice maker, etc. Just about everything my house has but on a smaller scale. Three weeks in my rockwood and it was getting smaller every day.
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:25 AM   #20
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Go 1 ton and be on the upper side of weights. No use running maxed out or over weight with w 3/4 ton or 1/2 ton. Just because it's being done doesn't mean it's right.
Just like someone that runs 15,000 miles on the same oil. They may not have immediate problems but down the road they definitely will.
General rule of thumb is, 1/2 tons are good for TT's not 5th wheels. 99% of guys towing 5th wheels with 1/2 tons are at or over the trucks RAWR. 3/4 tons are good for TT's and quite a few 5th wheels, 1 tons are good for both. More 1/2 ton owners complain about towing issues than 3/4 ton and 1 ton combined.
3/4 ton owners have issues with payload if they go diesel. 1 ton owners almost never complain about towing problems. Get a 1ton and you won't come back here asking what can I do to remedy my issues.
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:54 PM   #21
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I went back and reread the original post and have a few thoughts. First, if you are going to get the truck first it will determine what sort of coach you can get. If you get the coach first it will determine what sort of truck you get. Your choice.

Whichever way you go, you will need to know certain weights. The difference between the gross weight of the truck and the weight of the truck ready to travel is what the truck can carry. Closely related to that is the gross axle weight rating. Again, the difference between the most it can carry and what it already carries is what additional weight it can safely take. Then, the difference between the gross combine weight rating and the weight of the travel-ready truck is the gross weight of the trailer it can tow.

Just for fun, you might want to try this. It will cost you a few dollars, though. Find a truck that looks like it might work for you and is one you would be willing to own IF all works out. Tell the salesman that you will need the truck for a couple of hours, and that he will get it back with a full tank of fuel. Find out what a 5'er hitch weighs, and put that much ballast in the bed, over the rear axle. If you will carry a tool box in the front of the bed take a generous guess for weight, double it, and put that much ballast up there. Get your wife, go fill the tank, and then find a CAT scale. Get weights for both axles with both of you in the truck. Now go to the dealer for that brand of truck hand have them look up the actual build numbers for that truck (they will need the VIN, which is why you have the truck with you. Go home and unload all the ballast, and leave the wife home, too, or take her with (whatever she wants). You can now run the calculations I mentioned above. If those match with a coach that interests you, you have found your truck. If coaches that fit those numbers don't match what you want/need you will need a different truck.

BTW, truck sales people will tell you that an F250-class truck can tow anything. You know better. RV sales people will quote you the dry weight. Look at the gross weight. Pin weight will be 20-25% of gross. That's what goes on the rear axle.

Clear as mud?
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:13 PM   #22
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It's not the 250/350 size that matters it's single or dual rear wheels that matter. An F350 has the same or even lower limits than F250 unless you get dual rear wheels.

I have an 2015 F250, I'm currently pulling a TT and plan to fulltime in a few years so I've been faced with deciding to go with a MH or 5th. After extensive research and running numbers only the smallest of light weight 5th wheel would work without upgrading the truck to dually.
NOT TRUE

While the DRW version specs for the F350/F450 are significantly higher than the SRW F250/F350, specs for COMPARABLE F350 are HIGHER or equal in every respect. I will not go into all the calculations, but an F350 SRW 4X4 diesel can pull a 15,000 # 5er and be within all weight specs. An F250 similarly equipped will be almost 1,000 # OVER truck GVWR with a 12,000 5er.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:48 PM   #23
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NOT TRUE

While the DRW version specs for the F350/F450 are significantly higher than the SRW F250/F350, specs for COMPARABLE F350 are HIGHER or equal in every respect. I will not go into all the calculations, but an F350 SRW 4X4 diesel can pull a 15,000 # 5er and be within all weight specs. An F250 similarly equipped will be almost 1,000 # OVER truck GVWR with a 12,000 5er.
While keeping up with the new trucks, it is surprising to find out that if you look at the dealer websites, the 3/4 tons can tow more than the 1 ton srw. BUT, the 1 ton srw has a higher payload than the 3/4 ton. You have to look at apples to apples. Its not by much but that's what their sites say. Now I'm not saying they can tow anything, just wanted to get this info out there.
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Old 09-25-2015, 08:52 AM   #24
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NOT TRUE
but an F350 SRW 4X4 diesel can pull a 15,000 # 5er and be within all weight specs. An F250 similarly equipped will be almost 1,000 # OVER truck GVWR with a 12,000 5er.

Also NOT TRUE,

My old F250 is only 15lbs over (manufacturers) GVWR with my 14,215lb 5th wheel.

The only way to know for sure is to weight the rig and see where you are at.
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Old 09-25-2015, 09:01 AM   #25
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Full time unit??? We want solid wood trim and cabinets. They are easily refinished when need arrives. Heavy chassis so unit doesn't crack or shake apart. W/D, Dishwasher, large battery bank with larger inverter, residential fridge 20ish cf, led lighting but they is easily added, 40ish ft with large slides. Clothes storage is always a problem. As much as is practical.
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