Community Forums

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 04-17-2009, 12:02 AM

When I got this 01 Patio Hauler, I parked it with the batteries fully charged, and checked voltage every so often to see how the batteries were holding a charge. It also had some outside lights, the kind with the switch on the housing, that didn't work.

Voltage held steady for several weeks, then I came out and had 0, flat dead. Plugged in the converter/charger, and one of the "dead" outside lights was now on...

I replaced all the outside lights with new ones (that are marked on the switch which position is on and which is off), and the trailer seemed to hold a charge fine unplugged for several weeks... Until yesterday when it was suddenly flat dead again.

After recharging, I pulled all the 12v fuses, and took an amp meter reading across each fuse holder with everything off. I got 0 on everything excep the kitchen, which was under 0.01 amp, which I figured might be the fridge brain? Anyhow, that certainly didn't kill the 2 big batteries that fast. The LP and Monoxide detectors also showed a very small current draw, as one would expect.

Then I noticed the stereo still had power (with all the fuses still removed).

At the battery, there are 2 black (positive) wires, a heavy cable that I figured ran to the fuse/distribution box, and a smaller wire that I figured was for the break-away switch.

I pulled those from the battery, and took an amp meter reading between the cable and battery post. The big cable was 0. The smaller one, though, was almost 2 amps.

I pulled the stereo out of its cabinet, and it had a connector between the stereo, and where all the wires go into the wall inside the cabinet.

I unplugged that, and the 2 amp draw from the smaller wire was now gone (0).

I guess I'm confused. Wouldn't a person expect the stereo to be powered by the distribution box, with a fuse?

Does it have its own direct line to the battery to avoid noise from motors, inverters, converters and stuff? If so, shouldn't it be fused?

Also the 2 amp draw when on standby (clock on) is obviously way too high. On the back it lists wire colors to be on keyed power, and another one for constant power. Both are hot all the time.

Sorry about the long post.

Paul R. Haller · 04-18-2009, 11:57 AM

It may be that there is an in line fuse for the radio and clock at the radio. In that case, the hot lead probably goes through a circuit breaker. On my last Fiver there was a 80 amp circuit breaker that all 12 volt accessories went through before going to the fuses. Another circuit breaker that held only the trailer brakes through the break away switch, and finally, a 3rd circuit breaker that ran my detectors and fridge. If you can't determine where your discharge is coming from put a battery disconnect on the hot side of your batteries. In my current 5er, I have a solenoid that is a latch on latch off that disconnects all 12 volt draws except the trailer brakes from the system. It has a control panel inside the coach and a digital volt meter with a momentary switch to turn it on or off and a led to tell you know its status. Pretty cool. I don't now have to get a battery disconnect with this neat add on. In all other trailers big and small I had to buy a battery disconnect to prevent the batteries going dead during storage.
-Paul R. Haller-

FiverBob · 04-24-2009, 01:39 PM

Jeff - - are you saying the stereo is a 12v unit? If so, that stereo should only pull about 4 -6 amps when turned on and idling. Something wrong. It should pull milliamps in the off condition.

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 04-25-2009, 02:58 AM

Yeah, it's 12 volt, and it seems to pull close to 2 amps when on standby.

The draw on the smaller battery cable seems to go away when you unplug the stereo to where it connects to the trailer's wiring.

It almost acts like a capacitor is charging or something. Higher draw when you first put power to it, then it settles at like 1.8 amps.

It seems strange to me the thing isn't powered off the 12v fuse box and apparently has its own wire to the battery.

Anyway, I jumped in a toggle switch so I can cut power to the stereo when not in use. I think I'll see if I can find an RV stereo that will fit the same size hole, preferably with MP3 capability...

FiverBob · 04-26-2009, 07:14 PM

Jeff - - good idea on that switch and I definitely would have at least an inline fuse to it.

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 04-27-2009, 12:31 AM

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing.

Is it normal to have the stereo powered by its own wire to the battery, as opposed to being powered by the fuse pannel?

RustyJC · 04-27-2009, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff_in_The_Dalles

Is it normal to have the stereo powered by its own wire to the battery, as opposed to being powered by the fuse pannel?

Jeff,

That particular stereo may have been susceptable to "hum" off the power converter, so they wired it directly to the battery in the hopes of getting cleaner +12VDC power.

Rusty

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 04-27-2009, 04:36 PM

Thanks. I thought that might be the case.

There's definately something gunnybag with the stereo. Now it won't respond when you press the volume for on/off, but will start playing a CD if you move the volume knob. The display is blank, and it won't respond to any of the other buttons.

Looks like there are several new in the box identical units on e-bay (surplus from the slowdown, I suppose). I'll see if I can snag one cheap, as I know it will fit the hole...

FiverBob · 04-28-2009, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyJC

Jeff,
That particular stereo may have been susceptable to "hum" off the power converter, so they wired it directly to the battery in the hopes of getting cleaner +12VDC power.
Rusty

Rusty, I don't think I have ever seen a fuse block that isn't attached directly to the battery(s). Of course, the converter would also be attached to the battery(s). So, running a line directly to the battery for the stereo should not alter any possible hum. Am I wrong here. I know on my rig it is that way.

Bob

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 04-28-2009, 10:53 PM

There are two cables attached to the fuse pannel. I presume one goes to the battery and one to the converter/charger on the other side of the unit.

Strangely, the stereo seems to be working as designed now. It seems like it works after it has had power for a day or two...

RustyJC · 04-29-2009, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FiverBob

Rusty, I don't think I have ever seen a fuse block that isn't attached directly to the battery(s).

Bob,

The closer you are to the converter (and many RVs such as my previous Jayco Designer XL 3610RLTS have the DC fuse block next to the converter with the battery a LONG way away, the more ripple (imposed AC) you'll see on the DC. At the battery, the ripple will usually be the lowest since the battery output is pure DC and the battery acts as a filter to block AC.

Yes, I realize electrically that every point on the +12VDC power line is theoretically the same, but that isn't the case when it comes to ripple. That's why, if a 12VDC load is having a problem with ripple (i.e., hum), one fix that may be tried is to power it directly from the +12VDC post of the battery before moving to line filters, etc.

Rusty