Picking up new 5RV

[Abnmarine]

On the 29th I get my slider hitch installed and will conduct my walkthrough inspection of our new Cameo. I'll check the operation of every feature 2-3 times to ensure everything works. Any other tips for the inspection or for towing the setup? I'm used to a Class A so the 5RV is new ground.

[Randy the sly old fox]

Well most of the coach items will be the same. As for towing you will need to practice your turns as the TT will tend to track on the inside of the truck on both right and left turns. Just like on the class A you needed to watch the swing of your rear end.

[Abnmarine]

Thanks Randy. The fifth wheel is 38 ft. Would I need to lead my turns like the 32 ft Class A or even more?

[ParTheCourse]

Not sure where I down loaded this from but with all due recognition to the author, I share it with you. After getting familiar just hook-up, stand in the door and GO!

Techniques for backing differ widely. With conventionally hitched trailers, ease of backing increases with trailer length, which is the opposite of what most novices often assume. A utility trailer is much more difficult to back; its short ball-to-axle distance cause it to react swiftly to tow-vehicle steering input, while a longer trailer will react gradually. Fifth-wheel trailers are more difficult to back than conventional trailers, requiring more practice. Techniques for backing differ widely.

Here are some general guidelines for backing all types of trailers:

DISC>When you are ready to begin backing place your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. Then move it in the direction you want your trailer to go. This is more effective with conventional trailers than with fifth-wheelers, which require more turning of the steering wheel._
Hand-held two-way radios, available at low cost, can allow an assistant to relay backing instructions to the driver more effectively._
After arriving at a site, inspect it for the final position of the trailer and lay a length of white cord (clotheslines) along the intended path. Begin laying the line a few inches to the left of where you want the left rear wheel of the trailer to be. Lay the line out to about where the left front of the tow vehicle will be when the trailer is in position, and continue with the line along the intended backing path so the line can be seen in the left rear-view mirror. Backing to the left is easiest, but this method can also help while backing to the right. __Backing Fifth-Wheels_When backing fifth-wheels, follow these procedures:_
Watch your outside mirrors and when you see the trailer moving where you don’t want it to go, turn the steering wheel in that direction. For example, while looking in the left mirror, if you see the trailer moving toward that side you don’t want it to go in that direction, turn the wheel to the left. Position someone near the rear of the trailer, in the driver’s view, to watch for obstructions. _
Remember that you have no tailswing leverage to help you steer the fifth-wheeler while backing, as one has with a conventionally hitched trailer. Therefore, the tow vehicle must be at a significant angle to the trailer before any turning occurs. This does not necessarily mean that extreme winding of the steering wheel is required, but it does mean that turns must be started before you get to the slot into which you’re trying to move. the trick is figuring how much earlier. Each time you pull out of a slot, observe the path the trailer wheels make, and pay particular attention to the surprisingly long way you go before the trailer is aligned straight behind the tow vehicle. That is the magical point at which you should start to turn if you were to reverse the process and back into that slot. __Backing All Types of RVs_Before backing an RV, be sure to inspect the site, decide where you want the wheels to be, and lay a line of white cord or place “targets” on the ground?small rocks, pieces of wood, and such?along the path that the wheels must follow to end up where you want them. When the wheels are directly opposite the target, they serve as guides not to back up too far.__No matter what the type of rig, practice is the answer. Regardless of the techniques the driver and his or her helper may use, there is no substitute for repetition of backing maneuvers until they become almost second nature.

[RustyJC]

Another expensive lesson we learned when we picked up our first 5th wheel many years ago.

Have the dealer adjust the hitch and/or pin box to ensure that you have adequate clearance between the truck's bed rails/tailgate and the 5th wheel. You want 4" as an absolute minimum with 6" to 8" preferred, but hard to get with many of today's taller trucks with higher bed sides.

We probably had 2" or less clearance when we pulled out of the lot with our first 5th wheel (yes, the RV dealer had installed the hitch in the truck) and managed to cave in a bed rail causing hundreds of dollars in damage when we pulled off the Interstate onto a steep entrance ramp into a service station.

Rusty

[Abnmarine]

Good info here. I appreciate this.

Rusty, I'll ensure to take measurements.

[WD40]

I didn't write this one but you may want to print it off and take it with you when you pick up your new fifth wheel.

Arrive around 9 AM (2 hours before scheduled inspection time)

Doug

[Frankenstien]

Good chunk of info WD40....

[Abnmarine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frankenstien Good chunk of info WD40....

I agree. Thanks.

[Abnmarine]

I picked it up earlier today. Everything went well at first. Coach inspection found a couple minor fixes, hitch installed into my truck. The tech insisted I had plenty of clearance for turns without using the slider. I accepted this due to having to haul down to NC and back to get my plates before DMV closed.
I arrive at the house at 9:30 pm and go to park. As I make my turn I hear the rear winder shatter. OUCH!!! I should of known better than to take their word. No damage to the coach, just a broken right rear window. This ruined what was a good day. :(

[WD40]

Sorry, can't trust anyone now days. The tech needs to pay your deductable to get your truck fixed, but I am sure he won't.

Doug

[Superslif]

OUCH
I remember when my brother picked up his 5er after he had a automatic slider hitch installed into his Dodge short bed Megacab. Even with the slider I stood outside next to the bed of the truck as he drove around the RV lot very slow making different types of turns to see how much clearance the back window had.

By the way, the Cameo 35SB3 is what I want......Just love the floorplan and the over-all "fit-n-finish". Except the new Diesel trucks are just out of this world on pricing for the 11's.....

I looked at the Dodges and the new GMC 2500 which is speced to pull 17k. By the way, the Carriage brochure says the Cameo 35SB3 weighs in at 12,310. Do you know what your rig rolled out of the lot at? Was wondering if they post the actual wt. somewhere on your unit after any added options.

Keep us up on any pro's or con's on the new 5er.

[Abnmarine]

My coach weighs just 12,480 by what the sticker says. I didn't want to hit the scales until I loaded it up. I will say the new Dodge towed it flawlessly. Only downshifted once when climbing a large bridge incline. I'm installing a tuner that will also bump the hp/tq up quite a bit. lol

We just loaded all of our gear into the 5RV. We still have a ton of storage space and empty cabinets. Still we have what is needed to camp. This gives us room for when we fulltime.

I'm still a bit upset over the window. I should have tested my angles with the tech. I've since tried it with the slider and it easily clears.

I had to park it at a friends house cause it just wouldn't work at my place. We are moving in a couple of months so I'm okay with this. We have a short trip planned for Veterans Day weekend in Colonial Williamsburg.

Love the fit and finish of the coach. Also the auto hydrolic leveling of the Bigfoot system. Nothing like pushing one button and watching it work.

I'm still learning this setup. Some of it is different than my class A. I do what to practice backing in some empty lots. Parthecourse's tips help out a lot. Thanks!

[RustyJC]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abnmarine I'm installing a tuner that will also bump the hp/tq up quite a bit. lol

I'm as much a gearhead as anyone and had our 2002 Ram set up where it was a very healthy 5th wheel puller @ 347 hp and 762 ft-lb torque at the rear wheels on a Dynojet 246 chassis dyno - closer to 400 hp and 900 ft-lb torque at the flywheel.

Having said that, I have no intention of modifying the new truck. There are too many electronics on these new EPA-compliant rigs that increase the chances of it finding its way back to the dealership for service (regardless of make). Like you, my limited experience to date is that the factory output on the 6.7L is sufficient. Because of the complexity of the new trucks, I even violated one of my cardinal rules and purchased the extended warranty. At this point in my life, my intention is to be able to take it to the dealership without any questions if/when it has a problem somewhere deep in the bowels of the electronics or pollution control widgets.

JM2CW

Rusty