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Old 06-03-2016, 11:04 PM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
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Pin box bolts loosened

For those that tow fifth wheels, here are a couple pictures of my hitch on my Mountana Mountaineer 37.5 ft. trailer. It has the Moreryde (sp?) hitch. Yesterday we returned to Snohomish, Washington from a three week trip during which we hitched and un-hitched four times. On the way home I had a couple incidences that are worth mentioning. The first I want to mention and warn everyone traveling I-90 westbound mile 32 through North Bend, WA. Stay out of the far right lane, regardless of what you are towing. There are a series of dips close together that I have hit numerous times in the past and I should have remembered but I didn't. They put my truck and trailer in a violent up and down occillation.Then while exiting I-405 a bit later I had an idiot flatbed tow truck operator pull out from the shoulder as I was traveling at least 50mph. I had to slam on the brakes and lock up the trailer brakes. Either of these incidenses may have caused the loosening of my hitch bolts but I wanted everyone to know what can happen. I will be checking the torque on a regular basis from now on. The first picture is the inside of the pin box and the other is the bolts on the outside.
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Old 06-04-2016, 12:49 AM   #2
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Location: Wallaceburg,Ontario,Canada
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Bolts do Come loose

Any one pulling a trailer down a road must check around for play as in pin box and lug nuts also have a problem and must be checked I also check the heat of the wheels and the air psi. also...remember the spare also...Bushman

John&Jeannette Just enjoying life, camping, friends, sitting around the fire at night LOL life is good. Bye John the Bushman!! EH
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Old 06-04-2016, 05:58 AM   #3
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Check the torque

I just did some work on my MorRyde pin box last week as I had to move it from the bottom position to the top position on the frame. I did that because the 5ver was nose-high when attached to my stock 3500. DO NOT attempt to do this alone without some type of lifting device. I strapped the pin box firmly to the top of my cherry-picker type engine hoist as I had to remove all of the bolts. You will not have to remove all of the bolts because you do not need to change the position of the pin box.
You really wouldn't need to move the pin box back to its original position, but if you would like to move it back to where it was, it is fairly easy to move if you loosen all the bolts and use a little leverage to move it. You may have to be a little creative here, as to where and how it needs to be moved, but my pin box didn't seem to be binding much between the frame mount plates and was easy to move. You will be able to tell where it was by the paint lines on the inside of the vertical frame plates. You will need a flashlight to see if it had moved at all.
It really helps to have a 15/16" box end wrench with quite a bit of offset as you will need to get around the protruding bolts, unless you remove the back two bolts to torque the front one, then install and torque the middle one and finish up with the back one. Then you can do the same to the other side. (If you were working on a heavy casting, I would not suggest this progressive method of assembly. But, since these plates aren't very heavy and will flex, it shouldn't make much difference on the final torque values.) If your pin box is in the top position, there is absolutely no extra room to have any swing with your wrench that is on the nuts inside the pin box.
The torque table I used is posted by boltdepot.com and lists the 5/8" course thread, grade 5 bolt to be torqued to 112 lb-ft. The indicators on your bolt heads show that you have grade 5 bolts.
One last suggestion. Raise the front of the 5ver so you can work under there standing straight up. I wouldn't have been able to do my work if I had to stoop over under there. I am just too dang old and worn out.
With the right tools it is an easy job. I am sure you can do it. Good luck with your venture.
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Old 06-04-2016, 07:00 AM   #4
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Good that you found that before movement ovalled out the holes. If it were me, I would replace with grade 8 bolts/crush washers/nuts. But, at the least, I would replace the crush washers before torquing down.
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:37 AM   #5
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My PinBox and frame had 11/16" holes with 5/8" bolts. The extended kingpin allowed the front of the inbox to move up and my air fill hole was actually touching the underside of the cap. Aligned the holes and drilled them out to 3/4" and installed 3/4" "Frame Bolts". The two holes up high on each side could not be drilled so I used 5/8 frame bolts there. The pin box is rock solid now.

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Old 06-07-2016, 05:04 AM   #6
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"DO NOT attempt to do this alone without some type of lifting device."

I do this alone. Several times. You have a lifting device. leave your rig hooked up. Drop the front legs. Them lift it a little and remove the bolts. Then use the raise or lower button to lift the trailer and the pin box will stay still on the hitch. Jog it up or down to the desired set of holes your looking for then put the bolts back in.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:46 AM   #7
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PS a tube of locktite can be your friend, i use it all the time
on smaller bolts use the blue, not the red
and old harley trick

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