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Old 07-15-2017, 10:51 PM   #1
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Possible Frame Issue

So, I have a trailer with a TrailAir Hitch. Not knowing any better, I installed my Andersen Hitch the normal method, with the cup forward. This was the first time I used the TrailAir, and I hadn't used it with a regular hitch, so I didn't realize that it wasn't sitting correctly. I proceeded to tow the trailer, and hit a couple good bumps along the way, and the nose of the trailer slammed down pretty hard. After stopping, I noticed that one of the caulk seams under the nose of the fifth wheel is about an 1/8th on an inch off, and the baggage door on the driver side is off kilter when the trailer is hooked up and on the pin. When the front legs are on the ground, it's back to normal. I think there may be some frame damage - how hard is this going to be to find, and what kind of cost will it be to repair? Any way to inspect the frame around the pinbox without disassembling the whole thing?

BTW, if you're using an Andersen and a TrailAir, you may have to reverse the adapter. Much better that way.

Ugh....I hate breaking my stuff.
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Old 07-16-2017, 01:34 AM   #2
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Wow, how unfortunate you had a mishap with your trailer. Sorry to hear that.
Hopefully no one was injured? Kind of hard on the pride no doubt.
I'm not sure I can wrap my head around what exactly happened. Are you describing an instance where the coupling ball came UN-coupled, due to the TrailAir hitch swing arm pivoting? I've not ever actually run that hitch setup although I'm familiar with the pinbox.
What actually made contact when it UN-coupled? "the nose of the trailer slammed down pretty hard" on the bed of the truck or another portion of the hitch? Are all the pin box bolts intact, and is it in alignment?
If you attempted to connect again, setting the trailer on the hitch then retracting the landing gear very slowly where do you see movement? If it's in past the pin head it would seem that a weld / joint may have cracked in there.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:19 AM   #3
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It wasn't the extreme - the Andersen adapter, installed with the cup forward, which is the normal install, effectively took the airbag out of the equation on the TrailAir, which caused it to bounce up and down on the hitch. I didn't realize it till it had already bounced pretty hard a few times. Now that the cup is reversed, it sits/functions normally.

The flex/broken caulk seam is about 3-4 feet back from the very front of the fifth wheel, at the bottom of the wall where it meets the trim. It's only an 1/8th of an inch of flex, and isn't getting any worse while traveling. As soon as a little weight is taken off the pin box with the front landing legs, the flex disappears.
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Old 07-16-2017, 11:58 AM   #4
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Are you sure it hasn't always been this way and you just noticed it when you examined really close for signs of damage? All 5th wheel trailers flex as the mfg co.'s don't make the frames strong enough. I read somewhere that an 1/8 inch or less is normal flex for most.
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Old 07-16-2017, 01:28 PM   #5
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If it's like mine, the track that the trim fits into, uses screws to hold it to trailer....vibration causes those screws to back out, allowing the caulk to split open...
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob caldwell View Post
If it's like mine, the track that the trim fits into, uses screws to hold it to trailer....vibration causes those screws to back out, allowing the caulk to split open...
I've seen instances on trailers also where the screws break off, perhaps just the heads held in place with the assembly caulk. I would agree the frame flex is a real thing, with varying degrees alone the entire length. Still what you're describing sounds puzzling to being localized near the pin head.
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Old 07-16-2017, 04:11 PM   #7
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Probably over flexed the frame if the caulk line moved.l goes back to normal because their is no weight on the pin box. Once you hook up the weight is back on the pin and everything that tweaked is now showing. Better either do it yourself or get a shop to check it out.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob caldwell View Post
If it's like mine, the track that the trim fits into, uses screws to hold it to trailer....vibration causes those screws to back out, allowing the caulk to split open...
I checked this tonight, and the screws in the track were either broken or stripped, I'm assuming, where they pass thru aluminum in the wall....I think. Anyway, there are other screws that have been added there already, so I think it's been a problem before. I took out the stripped ones and replaced with a little bigger self tapping screws, and will monitor tomorrow when I hook up.

I think....that the cargo door was off kilter before when hooked up, but can't remember. Funny how that is - one minute you don't pay any attention, the next you're hyper aware.

Hopefully, this solves it. Otherwise I've got some fun times ahead of me....not!
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Old 07-17-2017, 11:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schrod View Post
Are you sure it hasn't always been this way and you just noticed it when you examined really close for signs of damage? All 5th wheel trailers flex as the mfg co.'s don't make the frames strong enough. I read somewhere that an 1/8 inch or less is normal flex for most.
I'm with Schrod......

I would be best to install a 6" inspection hatch in the panel that is one the underside of front bunk area on either side of the pin box. This will allow you to inspect the welds and steel for cracks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Marine-Screw-Out-Deck-Plate-Inspection-Hatch-Plastic-Access-for-Boat-Marine-/401110421206

With trailer parked on level ground and the wheel blocked you can check the pin box deflection by lifting the pin box until the front stab jacks are just (1/16") off the ground. A distance less than 3/4" is good more than 1 1/4" is.....
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:38 AM   #10
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Well, it wasn't the screws in the trim. As soon as I put it back on the hitch and lifted the legs, it flexed. Think I might have to have it checked out.
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by aknavy View Post
Well, it wasn't the screws in the trim. As soon as I put it back on the hitch and lifted the legs, it flexed. Think I might have to have it checked out.
Thing is finding someone that will makes it better than new vs. pasting it back the way it was from the factory.

If it is pasted back together and the pin deflection is more than 1 1 1/4" there will be issues in the future.
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:00 PM   #12
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So, we stopped in Billings, Montana at Kurt Repair to check it out. No pin box deflection/flex, and the flex that is happening is basically under the front closet. So, while not a safety issue, it is an issue. I'm going to see what Forest River says, then probably repair it when I get to my dad's....I'll take it apart, and he'll weld the reinforcement in. At least that's the current plan. If I take this thing apart, it's going to get a significant amount of steel added to it.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:42 AM   #13
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Frame Damage/Andersen Hitch

Resurrecting this thread - I'm here in RV country, Indiana, and my fiver is at Amish Family RV for some work. Just got word that there is 3/4" of frame flex, and it needs to be repaired.

I'm sure that it happened when I started using the Andersen Hitch, installed as per instructions, which caused the TrailAir to bottom out pretty hard on I10 in Louisiana. Later on, I reversed the adapter, and it rode properly.

Has anyone had any luck with Andersen and their $5 million dollar warranty?
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:29 AM   #14
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Damn that sucks.
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