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Old 06-22-2016, 09:25 AM   #29
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I find the longer fivers to be easier than short ones for backing in. The best advice I ever got was to put it in 4 wheel low for backing in. If it is fairly level you won't even need to touch the accelerator.
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:47 AM   #30
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That seems like a bad idea unless you're on gravel or dirt.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:03 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Gigattime View Post
Agreed. As a new member to the 5er family (we had a 30 foot TT for past 12 years before buying bigger this spring), I'm very surprised to how wide you have to take the turns compared to a TT...even when I think I'm over doing it, I end up closer to the curb then I thought I was going to be on the turn. Spent some time in the neighborhood elementary school parking lot practicing and getting used to the reactions of our new unit. I'm still adjusting to the learning curve.
Travel trailer turns quicker because the pivot point is behind the rear axle which swings the front of the trailer outside of the rear axle path. 5er has the pivot point above the axle so the front of the trailer is on the path of the rear end.
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:08 AM   #32
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Travel trailer turns quicker because the pivot point is behind the rear axle which swings the front of the trailer outside of the rear axle path. 5er has the pivot point above the axle so the front of the trailer is on the path of the rear end.
Or one puts the hitch at the rear of truck bed like we did. But we have enough truck to do this. But the longer the setup gets the easier it is to get in a bind pulling out of tight areas. Lot of swing back there.
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:24 AM   #33
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Or one puts the hitch at the rear of truck bed like we did. But we have enough truck to do this. But the longer the setup gets the easier it is to get in a bind pulling out of tight areas. Lot of swing back there.
Yup - MDT or HDT offer the ability to do that. We should have purchased a MDT in hindsight.
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Old 06-22-2016, 03:11 PM   #34
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I really appreciated everyones advice!
It was hard deciding which way to go, but I am now the owner of a Grand Design Reflection 318rst!
At 14,000 lbs it looks like a dodge ram 2500 will do the job so thats what Im hunting for now.
Congrats! We are loving our new Grand Design. 👍
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Old 06-22-2016, 04:51 PM   #35
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I find the longer fivers to be easier than short ones for backing in. The best advice I ever got was to put it in 4 wheel low for backing in. If it is fairly level you won't even need to touch the accelerator.
Get a Cummins. I don't even touch the go pedal hardly when backing up on the flat.
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Old 06-22-2016, 04:57 PM   #36
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Get a Cummins. I don't even touch the go pedal hardly when backing up on the flat.
You would be a good salesman for Dodge.lol. Didn't have to on my Chevy either but what does that matter. Now my Freightliner you will. It's an ultrashift and ones has to rev it up to 850rpm to go in gear.
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Old 06-22-2016, 05:42 PM   #37
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Hmmm - sorry fellows. I have to ride the brake on my Ford!! LOL
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Old 06-22-2016, 06:40 PM   #38
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My advice would be, never get so complacent that you think you've got everything mastered. As soon as you think that and don't GET OUT AND LOOK, it will bite you!!! I learned this from my fifth wheel towing mentor, who took their brand new full body paint touring edition FW and ripped the end cap off of it when parking it in their storage facility.

While workkamping at a RV resort this past winter, I had the pleasure of assisting a new arrival with parking their New Horizons triple axle, 45 foot FW into a difficult site. Difficult to me, not to him. His 'secret', take your time. It's not a race, go slow and get the job done.

So, you can do it, just always be aware of your surroundings and go as slow as you need, so that you accomplish the mission at hand.

Take care and enjoy!
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:58 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by gwynnem33 View Post
I really appreciated everyones advice!
It was hard deciding which way to go, but I am now the owner of a Grand Design Reflection 318rst!
At 14,000 lbs it looks like a dodge ram 2500 will do the job so thats what Im hunting for now.
I would strongly suggest to look at the Ram 2500 towing capacity charts vs the 3500 towing charts. If you want to stay within the manufacturer specs, a 2500 is probably not going to cut it.

As another poster said, the gross combined weight rating (gwcr) or max trailer weight rating is not really the number you should be looking at (when towing 5th wheels). The truck payload capacity, how much weight you can put in the bed, will be your limiting number.

Until you can get the trucks hooked up, the trailer loaded for camping and head to a CAT scale to get a true weight; a good conservative rule of thumb to go by is that about 20% of the weight of the trailer will be on the hitch, this on your truck. So for your trailer that should be about 3500 lbs. looking at the spec sheet, grand design lists the pin weight at ~2100 lab, or around 15%. In my opinion they are being really really conservative with that number, and most real world examples I've seen run between 20-25% of total weight.

Looking at towing charts for 2015 ram 2500's, best case scenario (regular cab, long box 4x2 with Diesel engine) the payload capacity is ~3000 lbs. if you go up to a crew cab or mega cab, that number drops down to around 2100-2300 lbs.

So if we be conservative and split the difference to 2500lbs payload capacity, you have at most a couple hundred lbs wiggle room assuming GD is accurate with their pin weights. If they aren't (and I'd bet they aren't) you are already overloaded. Now add in your weight, the weight of any passengers, anywhere from 50-200lbs for your hitch, the weight of anything else in the bed of your truck (tool box, toys, extra fuel, extra propane tanks, ice chests, etc) and you become more and more overloaded.

To give you a real world example: I have a 2015 ram 3500 single rear wheel and a jayco 361reqs. The manufacturer specs for the trailer are 2365 pin weight and 15k loaded total weight. Right at that 15% number. My truck payload capacity is listed at 4270lbs. I never travel with water tanks full, so I should have around 1900 lbs wiggle room according to the manufacturers specs.

I took it to the CAT scales on my way out of town for a camping trip. The trailer weighed 14,000k total and my payload was right around 4100 lbs. barely under the limits even though I had so much wiggle room to start with. The trailer contributed about 25% of its total weight to that number. Me, the wife, four dogs, my 180lb hitch, and assorted odds and ends made up the rest. All the little things add up quickly.

It's your rig, so it's ultimately up to you. But a 3500 will run you an extra 1-2k and give you the piece of mind that you aren't pushing the truck way past its limits.

Take it, leave it. Up to you, but there's my .02.

And congrats on the new rig. I really liked the grand designs when I was shopping. If I hadn't found the Jayco at the price I did, the GD was my next choice.
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Old 06-23-2016, 05:39 AM   #40
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Get a Cummins. I don't even touch the go pedal hardly when backing up on the flat.
probably comes in real handy for the techs when backing it in to address a recall

Ram 2500

Chrysler is recalling 381,876 2010-'14 Ram 2500, 3500, 4500 and 5500 pickup trucks and chassis cabs globally because the diesel fuel heater may overheat.

Chrysler is recalling 1.2 million trucks, including the 2003-'12 Ram 2500 and 3500, for a steering-components defect that could cause a loss of steering.

Chrysler is recalling approximately 30,000 2013 Ram pickups so that dealers can perform a software upgrade to reactivate the indicator that a turn signal is malfunctioning.

Chrysler is recalling 1,253 2013 Ram 2500 and 3500 pickup trucks equipped with optional premium headlights to fix a problem with the high-beam mode.

Chrysler is recalling 142,800 vehicles, including the 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and 2014 Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500, because of instrument-cluster defects.

Chrysler is recalling approximately 1.4 million vehicles, including the 2013-2015 Ram 2500 over fears of remote hacking of the vehicle.

Chrysler is recalling approximately 540,000 vehicles, including the 2008-2012 Dodge Ram 2500, due to defective suspension. Owners may be eligible for a buyback.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:30 AM   #41
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Thanks, I didn't understand that. It's really confusing because the sales guys and friends act like a one ton if way overkill but its seems like most people actually doing this would recommend a one ton or even a one ton dually.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:27 PM   #42
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Thanks, I didn't understand that. It's really confusing because the sales guys and friends act like a one ton if way overkill but its seems like most people actually doing this would recommend a one ton or even a one ton dually.
Yea, my sales guy (at the RV place) said the same thing. But just realize they are trying to make a sale, and they know that some people have this barrier in their mind where they will drive a 3/4 ton but for some reason balk at the idea of a 1 ton.

I'm not familiar with Ford/Chevy, but in the Dodge you get the same engine whether you buy a 2500 or 3500. They're both the 6.7L turbo diesel. Both have the same HP, same torque, etc. So they'll both pull the trailer equally well. That is why the "max trailer weight" rating is not really going to be your limiting factor.

if you think of it like a chain, and each part of the truck is a link. Your tires have a max amount of weight they can handle, the axle has a max amount of weight it can handle, the suspension has a max amount of weight it can handle. It seems to me that they try to balance these out, so the #'s are usually close to one another. But the lowest number is your weakest link. If the tires can handle a total of 3750lbs (between the two) and the axle and suspension can handle 4000lbs; then you should stay at 3750lbs or lower or you are going to put more stress on the tires than you should. Or you upgrade to a higher load range tire.

Honestly, a dually wouldn't be out of the question at the weight your trailer is. It isn't a requirement, but it would give you ample headroom to where you wouldn't be worrying about payload capacity at all.

In my case, I'd love to be able to get one of those combo accessory fuel tank toolboxes. But I can't, because I'm so close to my max payload that it would put me over my lowest number. So for a 15k max weight trailer, and a 3500 single rear wheel; I'm even limited in what kind of stuff I can bring with me.

But, since my truck is my daily driver, I also dont want to have to deal with maneuvering a dually around Las Vegas on a daily basis...so I made a trade off.


Having said all that, a 2500 will certainly pull your trailer. You will just be over the weight limits for payload, and you will be assuming the risk of whatever higher level of wear and tear happens to your suspension, axle, transmission and tires. There are lots of people out there who pull trailers your weight and higher with a 2500. So really, its up to you.

IMO, if the price difference between the 2500 and 3500 was a lot more; then it would be a tougher decision. But when I was shopping around, it was between $1000 and $2000 more for a 3500. I found that reasonable for my piece of mind. The only other factor is it may be harder to find a 3500 equipped just the way you want it, depending on the area you live.

Anyhow, have fun truck shopping!
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