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Old 11-16-2015, 10:39 AM   #1
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Pullrite superglide

I need a hitch for my new truck and have decided a pullrite because of having a short bed. I have found two used ones, a 4400 that was bought brand new in Feb this year and used 3 times. Also comes with capture plate for 850$ but the guy lives 6 hours away one way. Then I found a 2900 series that is brand new (looks like its been sitting for a while) that the guy lives 4.5 hours away but is willing to meet. I should be able to get it for 800 or less. What's the big difference besides the extra 2k capacity of the one. Just the ability to hook up to the truck with different mounts? I will have to have rails installed under the bed either way. Just not sure what one is a better deal.
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:23 PM   #2
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I would suggest filling in your signature so people can see what RV and TV you are talking about.
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:43 PM   #3
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I would suggest filling in your signature so people can see what RV and TV you are talking about.
I would but I don't know how to in this forum. I have a 2013 f-250 with the 6.7 PSD CC/SB and a 2007 keystone everest 345s
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:02 PM   #4
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I have the pullright 4400. I've seen that model listed anywhere from 18k-20k lbs, depending on where it's advertised:

SuperGlide 20K | PullRite Hitches


I don't know anything about the 2900 model.


I have a DRW 3500 dodge with the Megacab. So, short bed.

With either hitch, you need an adapter plate specific to the nose of your trailer. The adapter provides a keyway to activate the auto-slide feature. Without the adapter, that hitch won't work (it'll connect and lock just fine) and may damage something. I know, as my dealer removed ours and didn't put it back.

I can tell you that they "chuck" a bit more than non-slider hitches, but otherwise seem fine.

I think I paid $1600 installed for ours.
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:10 PM   #5
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Make sure you get a slider or eventually the money you "save" will be spent on body damage. :(
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Old 11-16-2015, 03:15 PM   #6
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I have the pullright 4400. I've seen that model listed anywhere from 18k-20k lbs, depending on where it's advertised:

SuperGlide 20K | PullRite Hitches


I don't know anything about the 2900 model.


I have a DRW 3500 dodge with the Megacab. So, short bed.

With either hitch, you need an adapter plate specific to the nose of your trailer. The adapter provides a keyway to activate the auto-slide feature. Without the adapter, that hitch won't work (it'll connect and lock just fine) and may damage something. I know, as my dealer removed ours and didn't put it back.

I can tell you that they "chuck" a bit more than non-slider hitches, but otherwise seem fine.

I think I paid $1600 installed for ours.
I have the 2900 Superglide. Love the hitch. I have not experienced any chucking with over 20k on the hitch. Be sure to follow lubercation instructions...very easy. Only issue you need to be lined up squarely to hitch and unhitch your 5W...within 15 degrees.
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Old 11-16-2015, 03:51 PM   #7
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I used to have a 12k Pullrite with my old truck. Wish I had one now. Worked great but it was very heavy; not really a one-man removal job. I looked up both of the models you noted and couldn't find how much they weigh. As long as the one you choose has the proper rating and the correct capture plate for your FW, and specific mounting brackets for your truck, I think you'll be a happy camper.
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Old 11-16-2015, 05:04 PM   #8
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I have the 2900 Superglide. Love the hitch. I have not experienced any chucking with over 20k on the hitch. Be sure to follow lubercation instructions...very easy. Only issue you need to be lined up squarely to hitch and unhitch your 5W...within 15 degrees.
You get zero clunk at all on stop/start? Seems impossible with the 4400 based on the flex in the bushing setup. Even after adjusting the thing, you can get some gap between the head and the stop.

I know that the 4400 had two different setups for lube. The newer ones require light spray / wipe down with WD-40 or similar.

Your mention of limited attachment degrees is very important. Outside of that range and you can't connect, or you have to actually remove part of the mount to get it to lock, then position the truck perfectly.
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Old 11-16-2015, 06:15 PM   #9
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That's my only concern. I keep my rv at a seasonal spot and the way its in there. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get it dead straight. And it sucks because I have no way to find out untill next year. Any sliders besides the pullrite, that doesn't have a stupid angle restriction?
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:15 PM   #10
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What is a good price for a "new never used" one from a private seller? Guy says he ha it two years and never used it. It's just the 2900 series hitch. Said he doesn't have a capture plate but can get me one. Don't I need a specific one for this set up and one also unique to my Everest? Having the 4400 with the extra 2k lbs would be nice. But reality is that would be a huge trailer and my truck I just bought couldn't handle that and I have no plans to upgrade truck or tailer for atleast 10 years now lol..
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:54 AM   #11
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That's my only concern. I keep my rv at a seasonal spot and the way its in there. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get it dead straight. And it sucks because I have no way to find out untill next year. Any sliders besides the pullrite, that doesn't have a stupid angle restriction?
There is a work around if angle is to great. You spot the fifth wheel, leave the FW plate attached to the pin, then remove the two pins holding the rocker arm to the plate, raise the FW and drive away. You'd have to hook up the same way. I've never had to do this, but will work in tight squeeze. I've always been able to get my truck lined up. You can view the owners manual on Pulrites website. If you look at the Parts page it will be clearer. Good luck!
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:32 AM   #12
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You get zero clunk at all on stop/start? Seems impossible with the 4400 based on the flex in the bushing setup. Even after adjusting the thing, you can get some gap between the head and the stop.

I know that the 4400 had two different setups for lube. The newer ones require light spray / wipe down with WD-40 or similar.

Your mention of limited attachment degrees is very important. Outside of that range and you can't connect, or you have to actually remove part of the mount to get it to lock, then position the truck perfectly.
I've kept my Stop Bolt snug...difficult to move by hand. I believe this reduces a chuck effect. I usually check and adjust every 5000 miles or so. I disembled the complete hitch this fall to check wear. The plastic wear plates showed very little to no wear after 20k miles. The Roller was just shiney on the bottom, but no wear. I did not check the ceramic bushing inside the roller, but the flex was identical to a new one. I carry spare Plastic Wear Plates, spare Roller assembly and spare Service Kit for the Plate Assembly. These hitches are supposed to last a long time, but if you need a part, the wait can be a few to 10 days in Canada. WD lubrication is simple, but important. The Turntable Way Tubes do not show any wear, and can be rotated if needed at some time in the future. The #2700 is 194 lbs, the #2900 is 224 lbs. Just my experience, others may vary.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:54 AM   #13
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I found a good deal on a 4100. More hitch than I needed but hey, go big or go home. LOL. IMHO the 4400 is farther to go get but a better deal in the long run. Make sure you get the correct plate for your unit. Good luck
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:46 AM   #14
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Well currently I can get the 2900 for 700$ and only drive 2.5 hours. Might be able to get it even cheaper? Worth it?
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