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07-14-2018, 06:49 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,345
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most disks are like 1/4 inch. trailer saver makes a 1/8" disc for there hitches. something to consider.
__________________
08 GMC C-4500 w/Custom bed. 8.1L
45ft 2007 Teton Reliance Experience XT-4
TSLB Trailer Saver w/ 3rd airbag
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07-15-2018, 09:08 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urban350
I read somewhere that some of the disks were to thick to work properly with a particular hitch but can not remember what hitch it was.
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I have been using it for quite a while. Works like a champ. Never had any issues with it. Still use it on my PullRite, with no issues.
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07-18-2018, 11:31 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 267
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Updates?
__________________
2018 Venture Rv Sonic Lite 167VMS
2008 F150 with only 50k miles!!!!
2 Chihuahua's - yeah, were those people at the campground
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07-19-2018, 09:17 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Northern Ca
Posts: 418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by consolenut
most disks are like 1/4 inch. trailer saver makes a 1/8" disc for there hitches. something to consider.
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I needed the 1/4" disc with with my MorRyde/Trailersaver Bd5 combo
__________________
2017 Chevy 3500 DRW D/A LTZ 4X4, 50 gal Transflow Aux Tank, Trailersaver BD5
2020 Arctic Fox 32-5m
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07-20-2018, 10:01 AM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starbreaker
Updates?
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No updates as of yet. Haven't heard anything from Reese yet. I would imagine they are addressing the issues with their attorneys before they say anything at all. Both insurance companies are going after them for the damages.
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07-20-2018, 10:09 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,500
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Did you ever back into closed jaws !
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07-22-2018, 02:54 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: south
Posts: 521
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couple of thoughts.
i suspect you had insurance on the truck. suggestions:
call them and get them in the loop regarding a hitch failure...
1. you would like for the company to code this claim as not at fault... (increasing the idea that they should not raise your rates..
2. they would love to get their money and your ded. back from reese and/or reese's ins. company... the handling adjuster gets an attaboy for recovering money... the insurance company calls this subro money... short for subrogation. if they say they are sending this file to the subrogation dept. that is a very good thing for you.
insurance will also likely help pay to investigate the cause of damage.
don't throw away any of the parts... you should keep them or make sure the reese dealer keeps them... "chain of custody" is important.
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let the dealer know that the insurance company is involved and you would like for them to give insurance company access to the damaged hitch.
good luck!
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07-22-2018, 03:11 PM
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#36
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 5
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I had one fail several years ago. Reese replaced it for free. NEVER another Reese.
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07-22-2018, 03:50 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: SOCAL
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacknife
Did you ever back into closed jaws !
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Jacknife
Are you saying backing into closed jaws is bad?
When I got my Reese 20, the manual said the correct way to hitch the trailer was to back into closed jaws (without the locking handle engaged). I've doing that for over 10 years.
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07-22-2018, 09:26 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 112
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hitch failure
If you got a Pullrite, please note, Pullrite specifically states !! Not to use a lube disc!! On the last few years models only use WD40on the plate,hitch mechanism, and slide bars.
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07-23-2018, 07:32 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 171
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I highly doubt you’ll ever hear a peep out of Reese. They may settle with your insurance company but I highly doubt Reese will offer any explanation. Any comment from Reese would open up the possibility of additional claims of faulty products from other owners.
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07-23-2018, 04:21 PM
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#40
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egwilly
As a user of the Pullrite system, I think you'll be happy with it.
Very user friendly and hard to make a bad hitch with it. You'll know when the jaws snap shut and the pull handle is locked in place.
As a security measure, I put the ebrake cable clamp in the handle area to prevent the handle from disengaging.
I also smear some light grease on the jaws and pin.
Best wishes for a good outcome
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Here in Pennsylvania the emergency brake cable can not be hooked to the 5th wheel hitch. It has to be hooked somewhere else. My Ram has a hook point next to the trailer electrical plug in. Stormy
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07-23-2018, 04:29 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 634
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Anything mechanical with moving parts made by man can fail.
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07-23-2018, 05:31 PM
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#42
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 356
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opps
Coming from a Pullrite slider with all the parts involved One of the reasons I bought the Andersen is No moving parts, ether it`s on the ball or off period. nothing to fail or forget even if you don`t push the plunger in to lock it you would be hard pressed to get 3000 lbs to come off the ball.
This happened right in front of my camper at Myrtle Beach a couple of weeks ago. He said it was in the grove but came out anyway and got the pin box jammed into the truck tailgate and the hitch and couldn`t get the pin box out or off the bed. An hour later of blocking the main road he and a friend used a borrowed from the camp ground sledge hammer a beat the tail gate till it let the pin box loose. Talk about an expensive repair.
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