Removing underbelly on Cougar fifth wheel

[ISLAPP]

Has anyone removed the so called "Polar package" underbelly on a Cougar or other Keystone product? I'm considering changing out the tank monitoring sensors and need access to the tanks.
If you did remove it, how hard was it/
Mike

[WindRVer]

Hi,

I haven't found much info on this myself. I've seen a few people with fabric underbelly's just cut through them and then repair them after. If you have the hard plastic underbelly like myself, I'm not sure what you need. Perhaps the manufacturer would be best suited to answer.

--
Chris

[Paul R. Haller]

I had a Jayco with the "Darco" underbelly. It had screws all along the parrimiter sections that needed removing. 4 sections. Lots of screws, maybe 300 of them all together. Don't know about your Couger.The real pain is putting it all back together. It seems the screws never line up again after removal. I ended up using a transmission jack holding these thick heavy plastic sheets up and trying to screw all the screws back in. Worth the effort but a lot of time on a creeper on my back under this monster 5er with a screw gun.
-Paul R. Haller-

[allendp]

Mike,
The rubber type artic pack insulation on my Everest came loose in the front on a trip and blew out from under the trailer. had to stop on the road and cut it loose with a carton knife just to get the rig home.

I took out all the screws around the perimeter that were holding the cut away pieces on. I then ran 1x3 furring strips the length of the trailer in rows about 24" apart anchoring them with with self drilling screws into the trailer cross frames. I then used 4'x 8' 3M styrofom sheathing that was plastic coated from Lowes and anchored it to the furring strips with hex head wood screws with 3/16" x 2" shoulder washers. I taped the seams and around the edges with aluminum duct tape. This insulation seems to be better and much sturdier than the old factory type and it cost me less tha 100 bucks for the whole project.

I did have to remove and replace the propane lines to accomplish this.

I took the opportunity to do some needed replacement on holding tank drain valves while replacing the cover. I have driven about 500 miles and it seems to work fine. I will take a pix of it tomorrow and post it.

[ISLAPP]

The reason I want to remove it is that I can get access to the holding tanks so that I can replace the tank sensors with the Seelevel system and add an additonal monitor in the outside water bay.

Mike

[allendp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ISLAPP The reason I want to remove it is that I can get access to the holding tanks so that I can replace the tank sensors with the Seelevel system and add an additional monitor in the outside water bay. Mike

You might be able to just drop the front and one side of the insulation by removing the screws that hold it up. Mine also had spun fiberglass insulation around the tanks that blew out when it came loose. You will have to deal with that as well as dropping the propane lines out of the way. The stuff that is on my Everest is pretty sturdy and if you drop one side and the front only I think you could crawl around on it carefully while it is laying on the ground.
It is not gonna be an easy task and putting it back up will be the hardest part as someone mentioned.

The other option is to use a carton knife and cut flaps in it and tape it up when finished. To do this you would need to know exactly where the tank area is that you want to access.

[ISLAPP]

Don,
I might be able to drop a corner or two and see what is under there and then cut out a section or so to get at the wiring and then retape it like you said.
Will have to give that some thought.
Thanks,
Mike

[allendp]

Mike if you do end up cutting flaps in the underbelly insulation I have found Gorilla Glue Tape (I found it at WalMart) to be a good product to seal the cuts. I clean the area with brake parts cleaner sprayed on a rag first.

[Groveite]

Sorry I missed your post...Done it! Had to change the black tank. It requires some dexterity and a bit of cussing ....I took off 2 panels as the plumbing setup needed attention as well. I did find that the sensor wires were loose!! They work much better when tightened but still not very accurate.
Ian

[Bushman512003]

I had a Cougar and I installed a tank washer had to remove the plastic belly cover I used a air ratchet on and off was not a big deal mark say N.S.E.West and add a few extra screws worked for Me add a tank washer when You have it apart You will like it and cost is cheep about $20..John

[WGTX]

I recently took a sectioin off my 2005 Cougar. Ya need a 3/8 nut driver and an electric drill. NOW, if you don't to have completely remove it, I would leave one bolt(screw) in and simply slide the sheet out of the way. If you do have to remove it completely, be patient , when you re-install it,till you get one screw back in to line it up on the holes. Install all the screws then go back to tighten them.

[JJnLilly]

In the process right now. Had to replace the valve on the galley tank. It is a pain getting all the holes to line up again. Just have to have patience - lots of it! But now that I've done it once, will know how to if I ever need to again!

[ISLAPP]

I want to replace the tank sensors with the Seelevel system and so will be attacking this in a couple of weeks I think. Thanks for the feedback.
Mike

[ISLAPP]

Well I dropped the belly this past weekend. Well sort of anyways. I wanted to replace the tank sensors with the seelevel system. I took out the rear and the street side screws from the back area to reach the fresh tank. That part was pretty easy. Took out the street side and front ones to get to the holding tanks where the existing sensors are located. Mounted the new sensors there. By the way, on two of the holding tanks, the ground wire for the exisiting sensors was not on tight at all.
Was "kinda" surprised to see the amount of wiring just laying on the top of the belly running from back to front. Would have thought they could have put that in some kind of a holder or loom. But hey, whatever is faster and cheaper right?
Mike

P.S. Love the seelevel system by the way.
Had it on a previous rig. It's the only way to fly!!