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Old 10-20-2012, 07:22 PM   #15
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Day 3 spent removing awning frame (awning was trashed anyway) and upper side rail. Some screws are massively rusted with screw heads not recognizable. Patience along with a Dremel/grinding wheel and needle nose pliars required to get trim rail off without damaging it.

Monday the driver side and both front/back top trims will be removed.
The top trim is a one piece trim that goes all the way down the sides. I'm thinking of just cutting it about 2" from the top with the Dremel cut off wheel and then making sure there is a good seal/caulking at that joint during install. Any thoughts on this idea?

All new stainless steel screws will be used during remount of upper side trim, probably with new holes drilled and the old ones just calked and bypassed.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:19 PM   #16
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No reason to have a single piece of trim the whole length. I just did a roof that had three sections. As long as you have ample putty under it, you'll be fine.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:39 PM   #17
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Dicor instructions say to use "fleece tape" to seal all decking seams and edges before laying new membrane. After sanding down the decking, I will be using all new seam tape but can't seem to find a supplier for Dicor "fleece tape". There is no point in laying down $1000 worth of new roofing/vents/skylights if the deck seaming is not done properly.

Rusted screw update: taking the time to pick out the square bit hole works wonders and all but three came out using a hand held driver, not a powered one. Had to grind 3 down until the trim popped off and then unscrewed them with vise grips.

Lots of staples in the sides along the trim screw line had to be removed as well. Currently on schedule for roof prep completion by next weekend, hope to lay new roofing material Saturday. All depends on my ability to locate/purchase/receive "fleece tape".

New skylights getting ordered here:
RV Skylights
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:43 PM   #18
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Thanks for the confirmation jesilvas. I'll cut the front/back side trim about 3" from top, inline with the color graphic so the cut doesn't look obvious.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:02 PM   #19
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Tim this is a great thread. Very helpful and interesting to watch. Keep up the good work and keep posting pics!

Thanks!
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:32 AM   #20
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"Houston, we have a problem" ......
Yup, found where the water was getting in .... wet fiberglass insulation which actually acted like a sponge and kept a lot of the water from penetrating deeper. Totally rotted corner of top decking but thank goodness it is only superficial on the framing. I have neither the expertise nor the equipment to pull the fiberglass cap off the back, so we'll add another cross member just to be safe, inject some construction glue down the inside of the siding and then replace the fiberglass insulation with new before redecking. The area is currently open to the dry southwest air. Ok, it's under the tarp, but breathing as the tarp is not tight to let the air flow through.

The interior ceiling panel is not rotted, just water stained.

Another little surprise: the Dicor "Diseal" or fleece tape does not come with the installation kit. A rig this size requires 200 feet to seal all seams and edges which adds another $300 to the budget. I also need another 100 feet of butyl tape as the kit only has 150 feet in it. My $1000 budget is now gone and I'm into "contingency funds". But I have learned from past experiences to NEVER start a project of this size without having extra money available for surprises!

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Old 10-24-2012, 10:59 AM   #21
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Incredible pics! You are doing a great job!

Keep up the good work!
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:49 PM   #22
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And the beat goes on..... With the rear cap improperly caulked, it was no shock to find a bad spot on the front panel as well. At least the front cap pulled back easy enough with no window in it. So the delayed trip to the lumber yard was a good call as I now need plywood for both front and back sections.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:58 PM   #23
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This nice thing about working on an older RV is no fear of hurting it! It's already broken so the worry about screwing something up is diminished. I would never attempt this on a newer RV with composite materials. This rig is good old wood, fiberglass and screws ... More like working on a house instead of a high-tech RV. Which also explains why it weighs over 15,000 lbs and needs 3 axles!
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasTim View Post
This nice thing about working on an older RV is no fear of hurting it! It's already broken so the worry about screwing something up is diminished. I would never attempt this on a newer RV with composite materials. This rig is good old wood, fiberglass and screws ... More like working on a house instead of a high-tech RV. Which also explains why it weighs over 15,000 lbs and needs 3 axles!
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:42 PM   #25
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You are a brave an patient man.


good thread!
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:44 PM   #26
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Don't worry about the tape. Just duct tape is all we use. You just need something to make a smooth edge basically for the rubber to transition over.
They do it on decking seams because they might be unlevel, and on the edge because it's a sharp angle. (Unless it's a radius corner, and even then they seam the edges of the radius.) Also, that tape they're talking about is just a tape fabric weave with no actual "covering" like duct tape. Basically duct tape with no gray cover.

Also, I've cut out/dug out/scraped out a rotted stud in the SAME corner on the front, under the end cap. Just a little work and then splice a stud in. Pulling the end cap isn't hard, just time consuming.
You're doing a good job actually. Basically just about like I would do it.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:56 AM   #27
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Thanks for the advice on the seams. I went ahead and spent the money for the fleece tape as this rig has square corners (they hadn't figured out round side transitions in 1995) and several metal flashings over the roof angle joints (where it pitches up to the bathroom/bedroom) and I don't want that metal cutting through the new membrane.

The front section of pressed board will be replaced with quality plywood (same thickness). The weight difference in that one section won't be significant but the added strength will be beneficial.

The old membrane was tucked under both front and rear caps and the instructions that came with the Dicor membrane says to tuck the front but overlap the rear cap. Probably an airflow thing, don't want headwinds getting under the membrane in front or under the cap in back. The old membrane had ZERO butyl tape between it and the caps which was a contributing factor to allowing water in under the end caps. Once I pulled the trim screws, the old membrane pulled easily out from under the caps.

The other major contributing factor was the application of "RV caulk" by both previous owners and this uneducated one last year. DO NOT USE - EVER - "RV caulk" commonly sold at places like Camping World for your roof repair applications! NEVER EVER!
The materials in the roofing membrane will not adhere to the RV caulk and all you are doing is hiding the problem, not fixing it. Sahara RV (Las Vegas) who sold me the RV should have known this roof was going to have a near future problem, but they sell used RV's "as is" and if the buyer doesn't have the knowledge to know what he or she is looking at when they check out RV's, this is the result 2.5 years later. I got up the ladder and looked at the roof before I bought it and "it looked OK to me" ....

Ah, the power of knowledge and 20/20 hindsight! My co-pilot says I'll be a pro when I'm done and can do this as side work .... at 57 years old - my knees are telling me "Hell No!" One and done!

The new membrane is going to get butyl tape, Dicor sealant and then for good measure a topping of Eternabond tape over the cap trims as the old trim inserts which are supposed to protect the screws from moisture are in a billion pieces from 17 years of UV rays. I'll just caulk the side trim screws, the side trims will have butyl tape, membrane, butyl tape, trim per Dicor instructions.

I can surely see where all the money is spent on having a professional RV roofing company do the job ... labor, labor, labor! (and screws) I have filled two plastic tumblers with screws thus far and still haven't taken off the upper level vents/skylight. This roof will get all new screws obviously.

Goal is to be done in 8 days. (One week from Saturday). Once the seam seal tape arrives, all materials will be on site and there's no more excuses not to "Git R Done"!
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:49 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasTim
..... Goal is to be done in 8 days. (One week from Saturday). Once the seam seal tape arrives, all materials will be on site and there's no more excuses not to "Git R Done"!
This is obviously a labor intensive project, so "thank you" for taking even more time & energy to share your information with "strangers." :-)
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