Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > 5th Wheel Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-26-2012, 09:48 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasTim
The old membrane had ZERO butyl tape between it and the caps which was a contributing factor to allowing water in under the end caps.

The new membrane is going to get butyl tape, Dicor sealant and then for good measure a topping of Eternabond tape over the cap trims as the old trim inserts which are supposed to protect the screws from moisture are in a billion pieces from 17 years of UV rays. I'll just caulk the side trim screws, the side trims will have butyl tape, membrane, butyl tape, trim per Dicor instructions.
There shouldn't be any butyl putty between the end caps and rubber. Only between whatever is getting screwed down and whatever is right below it. Under trim and on top of front cap. Or under vents and on rubber.
I would not seam tape over Dicor. Just tape right over screws and dicor on the edges.
The vinyl insert is only for looks and they hold water more than keep it out. Don't caulk the screw heads. Just put plenty of putty under the trim, enough for it to squeeze out. Just trim the putty after it squeezes out a while. Then on the side trim run a small bead of dicor from front to back right on top of the trim.
Also I wouldn't putty that much. You can, but it's pointless. Just putty on top of the rubber or end cap, wherever you're at.
__________________

__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 10-27-2012, 10:58 AM   #30
Member
 
VegasTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 32
Thanks for the info jesilvas, I feel like we are having coffee and discussing as we go which is what makes irv2 forums so cool.

Now I am confused though. Here is the direct cut from Dicor instructions. They are pretty adamant about the membrane having butyl tape between the membrane and anywhere it contacts anything other than raw wood in order to have a water tight seal.

I have decided the extra layer of eternabond is way overkill and have nixed it after your thoughts on the screw heads. Keep the ideas flowing .... please! This is my first and only roof project. Thanks!

__________________

__________________
Tim D
1995 Skyline Outland 3455 3 axle 5th wheel w/2 slides
VegasTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2012, 12:48 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
I've never put putty underneath rubber. But I can see where it might be a good idea on the horizontal surfaces like end caps and where the rubber goes under the radius corner. But on the sidewall, water isn't going to go up. If water gets under the rubber, the putty will actually hold it in next to the sidewall and keep it from draining out, like vinyl insert.
So it wouldn't hurt on the flat surfaces, but I wouldn't on the sidewall.
__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 09:15 PM   #32
Member
 
VegasTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 32
After looking at how tight the end caps sit to the roofing, I'm not seeing how that putty stuff can possibly be put there anyway without it all rolling up when the cap gets tapped back into place (rubber mallet, please). I'm really afraid to pry the cap up and risk cracking the end cap. Maybe just put a real good bead of Dicor lap sealant against the edge where the cap and rubber meet. ??

The membrane is going over the rear end cap, it's just the front where the down slope to the front could channel water against the front cap. As this RV is my "retirement home" and pretty much parked forever, maybe I should do the front cap like the rear one and overlap the cap with the membrane. That would take the possibility of water getting under the cap out of the equation.

Hoping to have all prep done and the roof ready for my church men's group who are coming out on Saturday to help get the heavy roll of membrane up on the roof and provide man power to make sure we get glued down solidly with all air bubbles out.

They offered and I wasn't turning down free help!

One more question: do you staple the membrane before adding the side trim? I pulled a gazillion staples out of the sides where the old one was stapled - in line with the trim screws, about every other screw.
__________________
Tim D
1995 Skyline Outland 3455 3 axle 5th wheel w/2 slides
VegasTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 09:46 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
The rubber under the cap is to help keep it from pulling loose. So if it will never move, I guess you could lay the rubber over cap.
You also can staple it, just helps hold it snug on the side before you trim it out.
__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 05:54 PM   #34
Member
 
VegasTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 32
Again, many thanks for the advice!
Today I got the rear section cleaned up, the rear end cap pulled back far enough to get the last of the rusted screws out and inspect the framing. The framing looks really good, just some superficial bad spots in the very corner, so I added one more 2x2 along the edge, glued and screwed in side ways to the existing edge frame.

Then added a new layer of insulation to replace the old soggy nasty stuff. I got R30 but it was too thick so I kept pulling it down one layer at a time until the compartment is full, but not putting any pressure on the board/screws. Then the new top decking slid into place perfectly (all the way under the end cap like it's supposed to), attached with 1-3/4 exterior (coated) screws. Tomorrow I'll do the front, Thursday is sanding day, Saturday we roll roofing! Getting close now, YAY!!!!!


__________________
Tim D
1995 Skyline Outland 3455 3 axle 5th wheel w/2 slides
VegasTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2012, 02:23 PM   #35
Member
 
VegasTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 32
This project has more hidden treasures now uncovered. Apparently the builders in Elkhart IN decided that it would be too much trouble to insulate the front of the RV properly as it must have been quitting time. So they just chucked in odd pieces and left an entire section without any insulation at all and screwed down the roof decking. No flippin' wonder my bedroom has always been hot in the summer and freezing in the winter!!! Sigh .... At least it will be fixed now! I knew I bought a whole roll of R30 for a reason....
__________________
Tim D
1995 Skyline Outland 3455 3 axle 5th wheel w/2 slides
VegasTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2012, 06:20 PM   #36
Member
 
VegasTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 32
All new insulation and new 9/32 plywood decking to replace old pressed board.
Tomorrow pull last vents, Thursday sanding/seam seal tape, Saturday install roofing membrane, Monday install vents, skylights. Now that the hard part of demo and wood/insulation replacement is done, project completion is within sight!



__________________
Tim D
1995 Skyline Outland 3455 3 axle 5th wheel w/2 slides
VegasTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2012, 08:32 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Looks much better
If you don't wanna sand the wood down too much, you can get some of this
Shop HENRY 10 lbs Universal Patch and Skimcoat at Lowes.com
I use it when I patch in pieces of wood that don't turn out even. It's cement basically and you just add water to the right thickness you need. Fill in gaps and then float it so that you can create a smoother transition than just sanding will provide. You'll still probably need to sand, but hopefully not as much.
__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 11:27 AM   #38
Member
 
VegasTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 32
The only thing I need to sand off is the old tacky glue, so I'm just going to hit it gently with some medium grit to knock the "black stuff" off. Start at the front and work my way to the rear so there are no more foot or hand prints left.

The rest of the decking is in good shape as the old roofing just pulled right off without making any splinters even on the crappy pressed board sections. All the old seam tape is coming up and new Dicor tape going down. I'm also going to bevel the side edges a bit as it is a pretty sharp edge. All the little holes where the TV and radio antenna's were mounted will get covered with Dicor tape as well.

I'm not a fan of the staples in the metal flashings over the roof pitch joints, so they will be fastened with short little screws and then the edges covered with Dicor tape. Many of the staples are sticking up anyway, so it's a no-brainer to get rid of them.
__________________
Tim D
1995 Skyline Outland 3455 3 axle 5th wheel w/2 slides
VegasTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 08:03 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Personally, I wouldn't chance leaving old OSB and glue bare. I would deck over it with thin 3/16" luan 4x8 sheets. Either you will get a chip from the board sticking up or dirt sticking to glue and a bad adhesion between rubber and decking.
The sides aren't a big deal, just as long as you tape over them. But beveling sure won't hurt either.
__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 11:13 AM   #40
Member
 
VegasTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 32
With the project already over budget and running into week 3, a full re-decking is just not an option. I do have new wood at both ends where those pesky end cap transitions are.

The plan: Power sander with a shop vac attachment, vents sealed with plastic from the inside, quick swipe with a cheesecloth just before glue app to get any missed dust from sanding or new debris from Mother Nature. I just need to take the time to get any and all air bubbles out during the membrane application process which is another reason I put plastic over the vent holes from inside - to help keep air/interior moisture from getting under the membrane at the vent locations while the glue dries.

You do lay the entire membrane first, getting all air bubbles out and then go back and cut/staple the vent openings, correct? I haven't seen anyone cut as they go, all the video's I've studied show the entire membrane laid out and the glue allowed to dry. Then they go back and start installing vents/accessories, cutting each opening as they work their way up the roof.

I'm leaving the rear ladder and the luggage rack off. A) won't use them B) don't want ANYONE on the new roof!

The crank up TV antenna and radio antenna also are not returning. Ground mounted satellite dishes (TV & internet) keep me connected to the outside world.

That takes 50 screw holes in the roof out of the equation which means 50 places the roof will never leak.
__________________
Tim D
1995 Skyline Outland 3455 3 axle 5th wheel w/2 slides
VegasTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 04:52 PM   #41
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasTim
You do lay the entire membrane first, getting all air bubbles out and then go back and cut/staple the vent openings, correct? I haven't seen anyone cut as they go, all the video's I've studied show the entire membrane laid out and the glue allowed to dry. Then they go back and start installing vents/accessories, cutting each opening as they work their way up the roof.
Yes, that's been my experience with this. After applying the glue on the roof, you might consider laying down long thin dowels across the roof and then roll out the rubber over the dowels. Unroll the rubber only a few feet at a time, removing the dowels as you move along applying pressure. The dowels keep the rubber membrane from attaching all at once, and let's you smooth down the rubber membrane and work-out bubbles as you go. Try not to stretch the rubber either -- apply pressure straight down.

After the rubber is glued down over the entire roof, I suggest marking w/ a Sharpie where the cut-outs & holes in the roof are. That way you or someone else doesn't accidentally step where there is a hole in the roof before you've had a chance to cut open the rubber membrane. :-)
__________________
[B]BichonLover is a 100% California gal, driving a vintage Fleetwood in SoCal.
BichonLover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 08:51 PM   #42
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Lay it all out and square it up. Then roll up half of it and apply glue in sections of decking. Glue a section, roll it out, get bubbles out. Do the next section. Do one half, do the other.
Also, when you hit a pipe vent, roll it over it onto the whole glued section. The cut out a circle for the pipe and de bubble.
Now you know I wasn't saying redeck the whole thing. Just deck over.
__________________

__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
repair, replace, roof



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.