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Old 06-02-2015, 10:36 AM   #1
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Replacing rv refrigerator

my rv refrigerator went out. want to replace with frigidaire ffet1222qb. it says it will fit a 24x60 opening & work from 40 to 110 degrees. i am concerned if there is enouh air space for it. thr rv has a side wall opening and a duct to roof for heat removal but i dont have the clearance on the side they want & at top i have a 12 inch cabinet over front of refrigerator by door. any help would be appreciated as i am at wits end trying to understand what to do.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:39 PM   #2
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We kept losing food in the hot temps so we installed a Samsung French door in our Everest Two years ago.Have stayed in parts of CA in summer also Yuma AZ and NM and has worked like a champ. I have about 2ins on side and back and 6in on the top for air. This fridge is in a slide out I blocked the two vents kept them factory looking so far so good.
At this park the guy next to me liked what I did so he went and bought one like you want and we put it in a Jazz trailer he is pleased he is going to place a fan in the roof vent to help with any heat removal.
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Old 06-02-2015, 03:15 PM   #3
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We kept losing food in the hot temps so we installed a Samsung French door in our Everest Two years ago.Have stayed in parts of CA in summer also Yuma AZ and NM and has worked like a champ. I have about 2ins on side and back and 6in on the top for air. This fridge is in a slide out I blocked the two vents kept them factory looking so far so good.
At this park the guy next to me liked what I did so he went and bought one like you want and we put it in a Jazz trailer he is pleased he is going to place a fan in the roof vent to help with any heat removal.
The OP needs a 2-door fridge to fit the space he has. The Samsung French door models are around 32" wide and almost 70" tall so they won't fit.
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Old 06-02-2015, 03:22 PM   #4
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my rv refrigerator went out. want to replace with frigidaire ffet1222qb. it says it will fit a 24x60 opening & work from 40 to 110 degrees. i am concerned if there is enouh air space for it. thr rv has a side wall opening and a duct to roof for heat removal but i dont have the clearance on the side they want & at top i have a 12 inch cabinet over front of refrigerator by door. any help would be appreciated as i am at wits end trying to understand what to do.
When I replaced our Norcold, the opening in the wood frame was smaller than the space behind it where the fridge actually fit. If yours is the same, you may clearance behind the frame and you may be able to trim the frame back a bit to allow air circulation.

The vents in the outside access door and the roof vent can be blocked off. The back of RV refrigerators are open to the outside because they operate on LP and the flame needs a place to vent, and they are sealed around the perimeter to keep hot or cold air and bugs outside. Residential refrigerators don't need outside venting.
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:01 PM   #5
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When I replaced our Norcold, the opening in the wood frame was smaller than the space behind it where the fridge actually fit. If yours is the same, you may clearance behind the frame and you may be able to trim the frame back a bit to allow air circulation.

The vents in the outside access door and the roof vent can be blocked off. The back of RV refrigerators are open to the outside because they operate on LP and the flame needs a place to vent, and they are sealed around the perimeter to keep hot or cold air and bugs outside. Residential refrigerators don't need outside venting.
residential refrigerator ordinarily woud not need to vent but if you have it recessed in the hole the propane unit came out of how would it get rid of the heat off surface of box.the best i could get trimming back wood frame is 3/4 inch on each side. i can have good space in back and 3/4 inch at top.
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:43 PM   #6
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I think if I was doing the job I would look for places to bore some holes out of sight in cupboards, also do as the guy next to me is doing.. hang fans in the roof vent and control them with a thermostat what do you think?
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:42 PM   #7
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I just purchased a Trilogy with a residential refrigerator. The cabnetry is sealed up to it, and there is no openings in the walls of the slide out! I have an inverter that pulls off of 2 batteries and the tow vehicle to power the refrigerator while traveling. Love it! The refrigerator vents at floor level between the front feet. Good luck with the conversion.
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Old 06-05-2015, 04:42 AM   #8
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I just purchased a Trilogy with a residential refrigerator. The cabnetry is sealed up to it, and there is no openings in the walls of the slide out! I have an inverter that pulls off of 2 batteries and the tow vehicle to power the refrigerator while traveling. Love it! The refrigerator vents at floor level between the front feet. Good luck with the conversion.
what kind of refrigerator do you have? thank you nrand name.
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:43 AM   #9
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residential refrigerator ordinarily woud not need to vent but if you have it recessed in the hole the propane unit came out of how would it get rid of the heat off surface of box.the best i could get trimming back wood frame is 3/4 inch on each side. i can have good space in back and 3/4 inch at top.
Most residential refrigerator manufacturers will list recommended clearances for the sides and top. The factory-installed residential refrigerator in our current 5th wheel (Whirlpool) has about 1 to 1 1/4" of air space at the sides and several inches at the top. However, the opening in the wood frame that surrounds the opening has a gap of only about 1/4" at the sides and the equivalent of about 1/2" at the top. Heat rises, so most of the heat will come out at the top.

The spacing for the Samsung I installed in the motorhome we had previously was about the same. It was still going strong after 3 years when we traded the MH.
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:48 AM   #10
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I think if I was doing the job I would look for places to bore some holes out of sight in cupboards, also do as the guy next to me is doing.. hang fans in the roof vent and control them with a thermostat what do you think?
The back of an RV refrigerator is sealed off from the interior of the RV while a residential refrigerator is not. If you leave the roof vent open ind install fans, the fans will be sucking out warm air (or cool air, depending on the season) from inside your RV.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:26 PM   #11
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Frigidaire counter depth 23 cu ft is factory installed. French door with bottom freezer. It is setup 2 inches off of the slide floor.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:49 PM   #12
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Most new residential units have the condenser lines running against the exterior shell and need the space around the unit to radiate/convect off the heat collected from the interior. Without airflow around the shell, performance will be affected.

If it has a fan cooled condenser underneath the unit (prone to collect lint/dog hair/dust/every other thing known to man) then you'd be better off if the fit on the sides and top of the opening are too snug.

What we really need for LP retrofits is the old style up the back convection condensers which I haven't seen in years.
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