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Old 07-07-2014, 10:10 PM   #1
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Residential Fridge

How can you secure the doors/drawer on a residential fridge during transit?

We've tried a bungee cord but it allows the doors to open just enough to shut down the cooling.

The configuration is two doors on top (opens in the center) and a drawer on the bottom.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:01 PM   #2
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We have a kitchen aid. In a 2013 Winnie.
The mfg. Put a latch on top of each side. Kinda like a cabinet lock, where the male snaps into the female latch. Kinda hard to explain. Have not had any problem with the door coming open in over a year. Over 12,500 Mi.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:37 AM   #3
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We have a Samsung french door in ours, 2 on top and a bottom freezer drawer. We use a Velcro strap around the upper handles and it cannot open. For the bottom freezer Excel provided a strap with thumb latches on both ends. There is a wood frame on both sides and the male end of the latches are screwed into the frame. This has worked well for 2 years and over 15k miles, some of it pretty rough.

When we had the motorhome and changed out our fridge to a residential I had 2 of the straps that have a buckle that lets you just pull on one end of the strap to tighten it. The wife sewed a hook on each end and I put a catch on both sides of the upper and lower parts of the fridge. We never had an issue with that system either.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:54 AM   #4
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Our Whirlpool Fridge has a a lock built on the unit. Works Great! You may be able to incorporate it onto yours.
Here is another link a RVer used.
Refrigerator door latch for house fridge

here is a view of the the Whirlpool latch
Maytag Residential Refrigerator Question
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:52 AM   #5
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Our Teton has an 22 cf Amana Fridge side by side doors. I bought from Walmart some nylon spring loaded clamps. Our fridge has tow opposing flanges in center. We placed clamp at top and one at bottom. We can't pull it open without lots of force. Works great.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:59 AM   #6
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As already mentioned, a Velcro strap around the upper handles works well. For the freezer drawer, which can be quite heavy when fully loaded, we use hitch pins inserted through angle brackets attached to the front face of the fridge. When the doors are closed the brackets are totally hidden. Here's a picture:
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcakia View Post
How can you secure the doors/drawer on a residential fridge during transit?

The configuration is two doors on top (opens in the center) and a drawer on the bottom.
Photos attached.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:04 AM   #8
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Mine originally had pins that dropped thru the top. That no longer lines up. Assume shifted over the years.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:28 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by glennwest View Post
Mine originally had pins that dropped thru the top. That no longer lines up. Assume shifted over the years.
I made my holes just a tiny bit oversized which seems to accommodate the play in the draw slides. If yours are only slightly off you could probably enlarge them without a problem. You're only drilling through the plastic top of the drawer; there's nothing underneath.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:07 PM   #10
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clamps work great
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:38 AM   #11
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It's a risk to drill around the door frame of any refrigerator. There are sometimes refrigerant coils called Yoder Loops around the door frames that carry refrigerant from the warm side of the cooling system to prevent condensation in humid weather. If you hit one of these coils, your refrigerator is toast.

If you are going to drill holes, try to follow the exact location successfully used by someone else. Otherwise, use a door lock that doesn't require drilling. Below is a photo of the child-proof latches we used on the freezer drawer of our Samsung. There is one on each side held on by double-sided adhesive. The red button holds the lock in an open position for use when we're parked so the latch doesn't have to be released every time DW opens the freezer. We use Velcro around the handles of the upper refrigerator section.

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