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Old 10-06-2016, 01:08 PM   #15
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Don't want to high jack this thread but how do you know when batteries are to low to run the res. frig? Will the inverter just shut off? Will the Frig still try to run even if it doesn't have the power for the proper voltage?
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:46 PM   #16
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Don't want to high jack this thread but how do you know when batteries are to low to run the res. frig? Will the inverter just shut off? Will the Frig still try to run even if it doesn't have the power for the proper voltage?

If you have a monitor for your electrical and inverter it will have a Low Battery Cutout voltage setting. At the voltage selected it will shut down the inverter to keep from destroying your batteries. Remember when you set it that you are selecting an "under load" voltage-not a resting voltage so you don't want it too high.


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Old 10-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #17
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Inverter

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Don't want to high jack this thread but how do you know when batteries are to low to run the res. frig? Will the inverter just shut off? Will the Frig still try to run even if it doesn't have the power for the proper voltage?
My inverter gives me a readout of batters voltage but naturally going down the road if it runs low I can't see that. On one occasion I had let the battery water run low and the voltage dropped and the inverter simply shut down thus the refrigerator went power off also. Other than that one battery water issue I have never had an issue with power for the frig on an all day pull trip.
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:20 PM   #18
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Don't want to high jack this thread but how do you know when batteries are to low to run the res. frig? Will the inverter just shut off? Will the Frig still try to run even if it doesn't have the power for the proper voltage?
The inverter will not put out low voltage. If it can't make 120 volts it shuts down. Your fridge is safe.

On the battery side, inverters have a high and low voltage shutdown.

You would need to check the specs of your particular inverter.
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:02 AM   #19
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Thanks for the help
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Old 10-07-2016, 12:36 PM   #20
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Well I just figured out why my fridge doesn't stay on when I unplug. I was checking things out and I noticed that my microwave didn't loose power because the clock stayed on. The outlet connected to the inverter goes to the microwave and the outlet for the fridge is just connected to shore. I used an extension cord to verify. At least I know what needs to be done to fix it now.
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Old 10-07-2016, 02:16 PM   #21
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Well I just figured out why my fridge doesn't stay on when I unplug. I was checking things out and I noticed that my microwave didn't loose power because the clock stayed on. The outlet connected to the inverter goes to the microwave and the outlet for the fridge is just connected to shore. I used an extension cord to verify. At least I know what needs to be done to fix it now.
I would think the fridge would be the priority but maybe not. Ours came with the inverter running the fridge only. For what its worth here is what I found and what I did.

The stock inverter was a 1500 watt modified sine wave. It was mounted at least 8 feet from the 2 6 volt batteries and had 6 gauge wire running from the batteries to power it. Also, I really didn't like the idea of using an msw so I replaced it with a 1000 watt pure sine wave which is more than enough for the fridge. All I know is what I read so after doing some research the recommendations I found was to have the inverter as close to the batteries as possible and use at least 2 gauge stranded wire. I moved it to within 6 feet and used 1 gauge I got at an automotive store.

I don't really remember the specifics but I also got an automatic transfer switch which has both the inverter and shore power line for the fridge running thru it to the wall plug the fridge uses. That way as soon as I unplug from shore it shifts to the inverter and vice versa. Works great.
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Old 10-08-2016, 04:08 AM   #22
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If you have an inverter it should run the fridge off of your batteries.

We do have an inverter and four batteries. Maybe there's something I'm missing like turning on the inverter. 😟

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Old 10-08-2016, 07:26 AM   #23
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Wink Manual operation. . .

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We do have an inverter and four batteries. Maybe there's something I'm missing like turning on the inverter. 😟

Being a newby I wish there was a class we could take on all things RV.


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Yes there is a switch or button you need to push to turn it on when you unhook from power. Then it runs until you turn it off or runs out of battery power. It doesn't automatically turn on when leave a power source.
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Old 10-08-2016, 10:20 AM   #24
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Being a newby I wish there was a class we could take on all things RV.

There is! The Escapees holds a "Boot Camp" several times a year in different locations. I know there is one in Tucson at the Escapade this year and usually several more at their park locations during the year. Also an excellent opportunity to do their Smart Weigh program. Check out their website.


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Old 10-09-2016, 10:08 PM   #25
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Well I just figured out why my fridge doesn't stay on when I unplug. I was checking things out and I noticed that my microwave didn't loose power because the clock stayed on. The outlet connected to the inverter goes to the microwave and the outlet for the fridge is just connected to shore. I used an extension cord to verify. At least I know what needs to be done to fix it now.
I'm sure that everyone will have an opinion, but personally, I would not run a microwave off of the house batteries, which is what you will be doing if it is plugged into the inverter and you use it when not plugged into shore power or running a generator. WAY too much load for the batteries, even if the inverter is rated for that many watts.

Let the flaming begin!
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:18 PM   #26
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I think that depends on how many batteries.

If you have 4 batteries, drawing 80 amps is right at the 20 AH rate for each battery.

A small micro might draw 100 amps.
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:28 PM   #27
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We routinely use the microwave via inverter power. Heating water for coffee, making popcorn, preparing frozen dinners, etc.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:33 AM   #28
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I would think the fridge would be the priority but maybe not. Ours came with the inverter running the fridge only. For what its worth here is what I found and what I did.

The stock inverter was a 1500 watt modified sine wave. It was mounted at least 8 feet from the 2 6 volt batteries and had 6 gauge wire running from the batteries to power it. Also, I really didn't like the idea of using an msw so I replaced it with a 1000 watt pure sine wave which is more than enough for the fridge. All I know is what I read so after doing some research the recommendations I found was to have the inverter as close to the batteries as possible and use at least 2 gauge stranded wire. I moved it to within 6 feet and used 1 gauge I got at an automotive store.

I don't really remember the specifics but I also got an automatic transfer switch which has both the inverter and shore power line for the fridge running thru it to the wall plug the fridge uses. That way as soon as I unplug from shore it shifts to the inverter and vice versa. Works great.

Mine is mounted right over top of the batteries on a shelf, so it is only 2 feet or so cable run away. The fridge should be the priority for me. Not really concerned about being able to microwave while I go down the road.

Thanks for the info and help.
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