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Old 03-10-2015, 12:01 AM   #1
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Question Residential refrigerator-No hookups?

It seems gas/electric refrigerators are difficult or impossible to get in new upscale fifth wheels. This is a problem since we store our fiver in a storage lot without electric. We start the refrigerator on LP the night prior to trips. Having a Electric Refrigerator only creates a new set of problems.

What are people doing to overcome this? I'm sure there are many people in the same situation.

Having to buy and install a battery pack and/or a generator can be quite expensive and adds alot of weight.

I'm open to suggestions and/or solutions.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:29 AM   #2
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Unlike an RV refrigerator that will take up to 24 hours to cool down, a residential refrigerator will cool in about 2 hours so there's no need to start it the night before if you're going to bring the RV home to pack it for the trip anyway.

If you buy a new RV with a residential refrigerator, there will probably be either a standard or optional inverter and extra battery(ies), so you shouldn't have to install them yourself unless you want something different from what's offered by the RV manufacturer. The inverter and an extra battery will add some weight as you have noted, but IMO it's well worth it for the extra performance, room and efficiency you get from a residential refrigerator.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:48 AM   #3
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If you are buying NEW...Instruct the dealer that you want an Absorption Cooling Unit that can run on Propane or Electric,NOT a Residential Fridge that only wants 120vac...Tell him it is a deal breaker.

I am willing to bet he can order it that way.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:51 AM   #4
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I find no negatives about a residential fridge. I find plenty of negatives about an absorption type fridge (rv fridge). Had both. Never go back.
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
If you are buying NEW...Instruct the dealer that you want an Absorption Cooling Unit that can run on Propane or Electric,NOT a Residential Fridge that only wants 120vac...Tell him it is a deal breaker.

I am willing to bet he can order it that way.
They are an option on some models such as the Cedar Creek 5er; the only issue is the cost of the smaller dual source RV refrigerator. The cost for the side by side raise wood 13 CU FT was $2,023 over the stainless steel 18 CU FT residential refrigerator as standard with inverter.

Jim W.
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:29 AM   #6
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If you start the Residential fridge as soon as you arrive at the storage lot, but the time you hook up, drive home, load the RV, loading the fridge last, you'll be fine. Loading the fridge freezer with already frozen foods, will help speed up the cooling of the fridge, along with all the already cooled food in the fridge section.
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
If you are buying NEW...Instruct the dealer that you want an Absorption Cooling Unit that can run on Propane or Electric,NOT a Residential Fridge that only wants 120vac...Tell him it is a deal breaker.

I am willing to bet he can order it that way.

Good advice. BTW, my fridge cools to 33 degrees in less than 4 hours with a small fan pointed directly at the fins. Stay with a true rv fridge.
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:09 PM   #8
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I'm pretty sure you can get whatever you want in a true up-scale 5er (eye of the beholder). All it takes is money.
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:10 PM   #9
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I find no negatives about a residential fridge. I find plenty of negatives about an absorption type fridge (rv fridge). Had both. Never go back.
This by far is the truest declaration on this thread.

I can list all of the negatives of an absorption fridge if you are really interested plus I can list all of the positives for our Samsung residential fridge.

I've done it so many times on previous threads that if you do a search you can read all about them.

You would have to step over my dead body if you had any intentions on removing my Samsung fridge.

I will NEVER own another RV with an absorption fridge.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:26 PM   #10
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We have been using a residential for over 11 years now and have no regrets. We are avid boondockers and spend 90% of our time doing so.
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:30 PM   #11
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Maybe overkill for your needs but solar can pump a lot of amps into your battery bank. It is my understanding the residential fridge in many 5vers is hooked to an inverter an can run on the battery bank for a good amount of time. I haven't done the calculations for a fridge but you can so that easily.

I currentky gave a norcold and use the gas mode often. I know they are problem prone but so far I've had luck. Now that I've cursed myself..
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:49 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jimcumminsw View Post
They are an option on some models such as the Cedar Creek 5er; the only issue is the cost of the smaller dual source RV refrigerator. The cost for the side by side raise wood 13 CU FT was $2,023 over the stainless steel 18 CU FT residential refrigerator as standard with inverter.

Jim W.
Jim, Thanks for your reply. i am currently looking to buy a 34RL. Yes gas/electric fridge is a $2023 option. Jayco Pinnacle has no option on fridge. I might bite the bullet as I'm concerned about what happens when there are power failures in campgrounds. We have been through several. Not interested in carrying generator either.
I'd like to discuss the 34RL with you. Contact me at 34olds@aol.com
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:02 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
This by far is the truest declaration on this thread.

I can list all of the negatives of an absorption fridge if you are really interested plus I can list all of the positives for our Samsung residential fridge.

I've done it so many times on previous threads that if you do a search you can read all about them.

You would have to step over my dead body if you had any intentions on removing my Samsung fridge.

I will NEVER own another RV with an absorption fridge.

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Old 03-11-2015, 06:51 AM   #14
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We have been using a residential for over 11 years now and have no regrets. We are avid boondockers and spend 90% of our time doing so.
How about some details on how you accomplish this without hookups. Generator, solar, large battery bank?
Since I am not a big fan of generator noise, for me this sounds like a minimum of four GC2 batteries and 600-800 watts of solar.
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