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Old 06-04-2012, 06:07 AM   #1
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Rubber roof replace

Well, I got up and took a good look at the roof of my '94 Gulfstream Tourmaster.

At the front cap the rubber looks to have shrunk at one point about 3 inches and the previous owner used silicone and other caulking to take up the gap. A few other places were getting thin. The luggage rack also had leaked at a couple of the brackets.

So, I figured I could try to patch but if it lasted a few years, I was still looking at replacing and then I would be older and more sore than I am now.

Took me 2 days to get the luggage rack, 2 AC units, TV and radio antennas, 2 vents and 2 plumbing vents off. Got the front and rear cap trim off also. The caulking around all this was a killer to remove.

Thank goodness there is only one spot as big as a plate by the back from a luggage rack bracket that the wood was a little wet and had delaminated. I think I will use drywall mud to level it out. Or something that is suitable. The front had considerable staining where water got in but they did stop it.

I made shelves in the rafters on my shed to set the AC on. That kept me from either taking them to ground or sliding them back and forth.

Now next sanding off the old glue (which isn't much there) and remove the drip edge.

Any suggestions or heads up to install the new roof? I thought I might chalk some lines to make sure I roll straight.

I've installed windows and siding for 35 years, but no rubber roof experience. I ordered all the materials from my local siding dealer. They will be here Thursday.
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:14 AM   #2
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Pictures would be nice!
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:13 AM   #3
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OK......here are a few.....more as I go.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:27 AM   #4
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I wanted to add that except for removing all the sealant to get to the screws, everything came off OK. The front AC was not as heavy as the central unit. 4 long bolts connect the interior bracket to the units. Electrical just unplugs and the central AC had a probe that inserts into the fins . I imagine the most difficult part will be installing them to get the bolts to line up. Inside I just match the brackets to the marks on the ceiling. But from the roof, I won't be able to see exactly where it needs to go. I'll need my son to guide me.......wife is way too short.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:48 AM   #5
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Big project! We just repaired the roof on our 30’ ’92 aluminum/FRP horse trailer. With the caulk removal, sanding, Fiberglas replacement, taping and 3 coats of elastomeric on the top we figured we had at least 80 hours in the job from a ladder.

The trailer roof repair got me a garage for my MH. DH’s words “not again”.

Good luck.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:12 PM   #6
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Here are some links that might be helpful:
DIY RV roof repair, Moisture in RV's
Rubber roof repair
Eternabond video library This is very useful for learning how to properly apply Eternabond around roof openings. IMO, using Eternabond tape to seal around roof vents, ladders, etc is much better than using caulking because it doesn't dry out and need to be replaced like caulking.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:48 PM   #7
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Replacing rubber roof

I haven't had to do this repair,only recently some rubber roof patch. Check around on the internet for the best price on externabond.. I think someone on the vintage forum did a roof rebuild/replacement. I think he was from Rochester NY. You can do this!! take your time and use a lot of common sense.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:10 PM   #8
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Thanks to all. I do plan on using eternabond instead of caulking. I even plan to go over the aluminum trim at the seams where the roof meets the front and rear caps. Eternabond also makes a double sided tape I think I'll use under the vents and other items mounted to the roof.

Not sure I'll put the luggage rack back.
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:42 PM   #9
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Well, supplier recommended that I do not go over old glue. Sanding the whole roof will be a back breaking knee aching job, so they said 1/4 inch plywood. I don't think that will cause problems mounting anything back on the roof.

I will have to pull all the staples from the transition piece that rolls over the edge so I can staple it back on top of the 1/4 plywood. That way there won't be a ridge under the rubber that might wear through.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:09 PM   #10
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Roof repair is something I would consider when that time comes, hopefully I can gain access to a covered barn so I can take my time
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:11 PM   #11
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Sorry roof replacement.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolfsted View Post
Well, supplier recommended that I do not go over old glue. Sanding the whole roof will be a back breaking knee aching job, so they said 1/4 inch plywood. I don't think that will cause problems mounting anything back on the roof.

I will have to pull all the staples from the transition piece that rolls over the edge so I can staple it back on top of the 1/4 plywood. That way there won't be a ridge under the rubber that might wear through.
I wonder if an upright hardwood floor belt sander would work to sand the old glue off while saving your knees?
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:01 AM   #13
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I decided to go with sanding the old glue off. It really is a thin layer so should go OK.

I have a young guy I can pay $8 an hour. His knees are 30 years younger than mine.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:45 AM   #14
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$8 an hr send him my way when you are done
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