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Old 09-18-2011, 01:28 PM   #15
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After my level shows me "close enough", a little bit of water in a frying pan on the stove is the final test I have to comply with.
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MICHIGAN CAMPER View Post
Mike,
Thanks for the pics. They help a lot.
Question though, in your opinion, are the 18" squares wide enough to catch both tires on a dully? If not, while parked, is it OK to support under just the inner (or outer) dully?
michigancamper
I hope you don't mind if I answer that.

No, it is not alright to support only one tire of a dual tire system. When you support one tire you are putting all the weight on that tire and it will be overloaded. You can damage the sidewall. You need to support the entire footprint of each dual tire, and the entire footprint of a single tire.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:20 PM   #17
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Yes, the 18" catches both tires of the duals. The first picture with the tires on the block is of the rear duals. Both tire are on the block with width to spare.

I did some measuring before I built them. I work as a technician at an Engineering firm. Been designing and drawing buildings such such for over 30 years.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MICHIGAN CAMPER View Post
If not, while parked, is it OK to support under just the inner (or outer) dully?
michigancamper
The answer to that is no! Each tire has to be fully supported both lengthwise and side to side. The Michelin RV Tire guide has a drawing showing that.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:41 PM   #19
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Has anyone tried jacking up a heavy fifth wheel to get the tires off the ground on one side so you can put the leveling boards in. Moving our fifth is difficult, we don't own a truck. I suppose the real question is how to change a tire on a fifth wheel. The frame must support being jacked up in order to change one of the tires.

I don't have a manual for where to place the jack but I am hoping there is a place under the frame which is obvious to me when I look.

I paid a guy to deliver my fifth wheel the other day and he did a crumy job of leveling. The fridge is level but in the rear it is off a bit and I have been told that I should not raise the levelers more than an inch or so.
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:23 PM   #20
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Mike, Wayne and Mr. D,
Thanks to all of you for your answers.

My question in my mind about supporting the load with one wheel of a dually of course come from the fact that some one-ton's have only one wheel. I thought that maybe a static load could be supported by one wheel. (of a dually)

Still don't understand why not but I'll take your word for it. Since the 18" blocks catch both wheels, it's a mute point anyway. I like the block idea BTW. They stack nicely too.
Thanks again to all of you.
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Old 12-25-2011, 09:59 AM   #21
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A few pictures:

1st one is one "block" under the rear duals. Was laid to ramp up onto it.

2nd one is a group of "blocks" (4) stacked together with 2 loose "ramps" on top.
I just found this thread from the other one. Cougarkid, I see how you stack these blocks and like that they stack neatly. I'm still unclear about how you drive your rig up onto a tall stack of blocks using the "ramps" you describe. What am I missing? Thanks!
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:33 PM   #22
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For the one without a truck, I would just leave the trailer as is because if the tire is jacked and lumber placed under it the trailer will twist because the front landing gears are not capable to be leveled, I would only level when the trailer is on the truck at least to releave the twisting of the frame. Whenever I work on the axles/wheels I place the trailer on the truck and only jack one side at a time.

I have 2x6 by 12" long blocking and place then sideways 3 wide for each tire I am lifting and let the wife drive the truck to place the trailer tires on it, if I am not level the truck moves either forward or backward and I add an other row of blocking, sometimes one wheel ends up with more layers but its required to accuratly level side to side as one wheel equals 3/4" incraments. I found that the 2 x 8 blocking will split very easily and my 2 x 6 have lasted up to 10 years old. I will use recycled blocking. I place all the stored 2 x 6 in a midsize Roughneck container and have them next to me at the wheels when leveling. Time is about 5 min and well worth it compared to hydraulics that are expensive and troublesum units.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:53 PM   #23
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Have a 'side' level mounted on unit where you can see from drivers seat..moving
a little can change bubble until it comes to center, or as suggested, you can see
how far bubble is off, add one 2 by under low side and see how far bubble moves
toward center, from then on, you know when bobble is at beginning mark, it takes
only one 2by. Further off maybe takes 2 2bys. again know the starting point. From
then on, if you have 'marked' level, you'll know how many 2bys it'll take on
different marks. Front to back is down with hitch jack, again a side level. On my older
motor home, I had levels next to driver, and could change things fast by moving rv
around...on the one I have now, with jacks...the front Jacks are put down first and
contact the ground at the same time because they have a 'hose' that connects them.
Then I put down rear jacks, which are independent controlled and can adjust both
directions...have a 'happy new year'
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