Community Forums

Joe11 · 11-29-2018, 04:34 PM

On a flush floor slide out design where the floor picks up when retracted and slides over a UHMW glide bar.....is the bevel on the leading edge of the floor typically 25 degrees? The edge of the floor that comes inside the trailer first on retrevial.

Thanks

clifford j · 11-29-2018, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe11

On a flush floor slide out design where the floor picks up when retracted and slides over a UHMW glide bar.....is the bevel on the leading edge of the floor typically 25 degrees? The edge of the floor that comes inside the trailer first on retrevial.

Thanks

Hi, interesting question about the 25% incline. Not sure why you have this question but I've thought about the "gap" between the slide floor and the main floor . I hate the gully in the carpet created by the void between the leading edge of the slide and the main floor. I'm about ready to re-carpet my rig and I'm thinking about ways to improve the apperance. I'm going to tackle the carpet project myself and gathering information.
Sorry if I hi-jacked your thread .

CLIFF

Joe11 · 11-29-2018, 08:05 PM

The bottom edge of the flush floor slides are showing abrasion/scraping on the edge closest to the tow vehicle and furthest from the tow vehicle. I need to install some stainless steel sheet material under the slide at those locations.

clifford j · 11-30-2018, 06:27 AM

Hi Joe, my slide flooring is 3/4 inch plywood with an angled edge ,there is a plastic plate screwed to the mating edge on the main floor. Both angles seem the same. If yours is similar, I'm not sure adding a sheet metal protection will work. I think it would be ok when the slide is coming in ,but I'm not sure it would not 'snag' on the way out. However, It may work if there was an inward second bend on the leading edge (when the slides extending.) Tough to explain,,, < if the bottom had a slight bend inward it may protect against snagging. MHO

CLIFF

aknavy · 11-30-2018, 08:20 AM

You may need to adjust your slides, to start with. To add protection, you can add slide pans/slide guardians/armour under them - basically an L shaped piece of rigid plastic or metal that covers that edge. Mine run along the edge, then wrap around the inside leading edge. I had them installed, so I'm not sure of the installation specifics, but I know you can jack up the slide to gain access to the full length of it for installation.

Joe11 · 11-30-2018, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aknavy

You may need to adjust your slides, to start with. To add protection, you can add slide pans/slide guardians/armour under them - basically an L shaped piece of rigid plastic or metal that covers that edge. Mine run along the edge, then wrap around the inside leading edge. I had them installed, so I'm not sure of the installation specifics, but I know you can jack up the slide to gain access to the full length of it for installation.

This was all supposed to be taken care of under warranty. The shop did a 1/4” slide adjustment but it still gets abrasion on the edges. I sent an inquiry to Talin who makes Guardian Plates but never received a response. I am going to install 18 gauge 304 stainless underneath similar to the guardian plate but without the 90 degree going up the outside of the slide that one inch or so. I already jacked up each slide and took measurements. I’m going to a sheet metal shop today and see if they can make something I drew up.

aknavy · 11-30-2018, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe11

This was all supposed to be taken care of under warranty. The shop did a 1/4” slide adjustment but it still gets abrasion on the edges. I sent an inquiry to Talin who makes Guardian Plates but never received a response. I am going to install 18 gauge 304 stainless underneath similar to the guardian plate but without the 90 degree going up the outside of the slide that one inch or so. I already jacked up each slide and took measurements. I’m going to a sheet metal shop today and see if they can make something I drew up.

Just be careful that you ensure water can't get between your sheet metal and the bottom of the floor, or you'll be replacing the floor in a year or two.

Joe11 · 11-30-2018, 11:25 AM

$180.00 for the sheet metal. 304 stainless 18 gauge.

The sheet metal will extend to the outside edge of the existing plywood floor and be attached with 3M-5200 and large flange stainless rivets. Have not had issue with water intrusion but a bead of the 3M will be run along outside edge in addition to the field at installation so that should be insurance against any in future.

The bedroom slide is on rollers so I’m putting 7 1/2” wide strips along roller paths with rivers to the outer edge where roller will not contact. The bedroom slide has made indentations where rollers sit during transit so the steel will take care of that area.

These should go on week after next. I’ll post photos.

clifford j · 11-30-2018, 01:03 PM

Hi Joe, sounds like you have the bases covered. Let us know how the job comes out. Sad part is we have to retrofit the crap they sell us.

CLIFF

96 Wideglide · 11-30-2018, 01:17 PM

On Monaco / Holiday Rambler coaches, the angle is 25*.

Joe11 · 12-04-2018, 09:57 AM

Stainless steel pieces came in today.

Joe11 · 12-10-2018, 10:07 PM

Whew!, what a job. Stainless steel rivets are tough. Did all three slides in the last few days. The bedroom slide on rollers was easy. The flush floor slides in the living room were a bit more work.

Joe11 · 12-10-2018, 10:16 PM

If you do your flush floor, don’t pre drill the holes closest to the trailer. Wait until you have removed the jack and lowered the slide and extended it. Also, be aware of tires and any mechanical hardware. You do need a good rivet tool to snap off the Stainless Steel rivets.

Attached are a couple photos of what the SS looks like from inside the trailer.