Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > 5th Wheel Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-01-2009, 12:13 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 641
Fresh batteries with a full charge will read 12.65 volts at the terminals with a digital volt ohm meter with no current draw (disconnected battery cables). Check if you have that and if you do not... charge the battery until you see 12.65 volts across the terminals. Once you are sure you have a full charge, install battery and hook up cables. Use the VOM from ground to both sides of the circuit breakers to see if 12.65 voltage is present. If yes, and the devices still do not operate, you have a wiring fault between the breaker and the motor or a bad motor. ( check related wiring between breaker and switch and from switch to motor) If 12.65 is present on battery side but not the other side of breaker or fuse, you have a bad fuse or breaker. Check to see if fuse or breaker is no good and replace if necessary. Finally check that you have voltage at the motor when the switch is pressed and that the ground connections are good everywhere. Do not forget to check all grounds at the motors and battery to frame. Try system again. Do the systems work when wired direct? if yes, trace the wiring and fix the fault. If no, check motors.
-Paul R. Haller-
__________________

__________________
Paul R. Haller is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-03-2009, 10:33 AM   #16
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Well now that I have a volt meter I have checked that the battery has 12volts (does not have decimal points on meter) that I borrowed however I just bought a new one and I am about to try it out. That being said I do have 12v at battery going to breakers and through both breakers to all 3 switches (2 slideout and one for electric levelling motor) when I try the switches the red going in has power but the blue and green do not even when I press the switch. The hydraulic motor works when connected to the battery direct. I am not sure how to connect the electric motor direct. If I disconnect the switch and touch the red to the blue or green nothing happens even though the red wire reads 12v ??? do you think this is a ground problem? I can't find a bad one but maybe I am missing one, could it be a ground inside the trailer or at the pump/ battery location. What does VOM mean? I am in Seagrave, Ontario, Canada. Thanks for all your help so far I think sooner or later we will figure this one out there is not that many options left (I hope)
__________________

__________________
DeanT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2009, 11:25 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 641
Ok good that you have +12 at all switches. Now you have to trace the wiring back between the switches and the motors. Most slide outs have a current limiting device called a slideout controller. Both my 5th wheels had one between the switches and the motors. They are a circuit board about 4 inches square and have a whole bunch of wires going to them and they prevent too much current going to the motors so the motors don't get too hot. Mine were in strange places like inside the kitchen cabinet drawer bank (you had to remove all the drawers to get to it) and in the electrical compartment underneath in the storage area or under the bed. These control whether or not the motors turn clockwise or counterclockwise depending on which side of the switch was pushed and of course how much current went to the motors. They have power going to them also from elsewhere in the 12 volt system. Have you checked every circuit fuse at the fuse panel with a volt meter? Check both sides of the fuses for +12 volts to make sure your controllers are hot. VOM stands for volt, ohm, meter and generally will measure both Volts AC and DC, Ohms resistance, and amps to about 10 amps draw depending on the scale you choose.

You will have to trace each wire and you can do this with the ohms scale on your meter as long as no voltage is present while reading ohms. resistance. Disconnect the batteries and using the ohms scale short the leads together & you'll see that the meter reads 0 or nearly 0 ohms resistance Think of it as a very sensitive circuit continuity tester. now connect one end to the blue wire at the switch and the other probe to anywire you find thats blue at the controller. Does it read near 0, if yes, wire is good and you have likely found the other side of that wire. Do this until you now know where each wire goes from the switches.
I'm guessing its a bad controller or no +12 going to the controllers.
-Paul R Haller-
__________________
Paul R. Haller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2009, 02:48 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
450Donn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas,OR
Posts: 2,552
Good idea Paul, however Forest River uses a heavy duty rocker switch for the landing gear. They are prone to failure due to the 30 or so amps that goes through the contact assembly. That is one of the reasons I replaced mine with a 2 dollar toggle switch and a heavy duty reversing relay.
__________________
Don and Lorri
2007 Dodge 3500 dually
Resident Dummy.
450Donn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2009, 02:18 PM   #19
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Ok now I am very confused, today the switches work (all 3) however they are still intermittent and I may have found the slide out controller, there is a small circuit board under the kitchen sink that is hooked to the water heater but I am pretty sure the wires that go to the inside slide out switch come from here. Does this make any sense at all? My water heater and microwave have a switch that only allows you to use one at a time and I think only if I am plugged in. So I figured I would plug in and see if the microwave would work and as I plugged in the cheater cord I got sparks! so I unplugged right away. I looks like the end on the 30 amp cord may be bad.
__________________
DeanT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2009, 10:15 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
450Donn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas,OR
Posts: 2,552
Not a bit. Anything that is connected to the W/H is likely for the W/H. Take the inside slide out switch off the wall and look to see what wires are connected to it. There is probably three or four wires. You should be able to simply determine which is what with your volt meter. One will be 12VDC hot. When you push the switch up one of the wires will become hot also. Push down and the other will become hot. Lacking this, it might be simpler if you could go buy a wire signal generator and start tracing the wires one by one from point a to point b. Or at this poing forget the inside switches. You have a switch on the hydraulic motor and another for the landing gear. Get them working first and I would bet that the inside ones will magically start working. My guess is you still have a bad circuit breaker or a loose connection somewhere.
Sure you dont want me to fly to your location and fix it for you? Only cost you 500 dollars a day plus air fare meals and hotels. LOL
__________________
Don and Lorri
2007 Dodge 3500 dually
Resident Dummy.
450Donn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2009, 07:09 PM   #21
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Ok I can't find the slide out controller anywhere do all slide outs have one? I have found the wires that go from the battery to the circuit breakers to the solenoids and from the solenoids 3 separate lines one to the motor, one to the pump switch, and one to the inside switch there is definitely no controller between the pump and the pump switch just a 6" wire. I have traced the wires from the pump/ battery location through the floor under the bathroom through my tv cabinet it then goes into a wall up through the ceiling and down to the switch (I think). Red is my hot, blue is my extend, and green is my retract. These wires do NOT go to the electrical panel if I am right does this make sense? I may have found a relationship between the intermittent working and the not working at all. This would be if it has rained it will not work at all if it is dry it will work a little bit at a time does this mean anything? It may be a coincidence as well.
__________________
DeanT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2009, 07:24 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
yogi154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Peotone ILL
Posts: 104
Dean ,

On my Cardinal I have one slide switch at the door at the bottom of a upper cabinet. One switch works both slides. The bedroom slide comes out and goes in first . Then the lower slide comes in or out. Both slides work off the same switch. Did you take the wires and jumper off the top of the circuit breakers just below the pump. Check for 12 volts at the top of both breakers. Two breakers are tied together for a 50 amp circuit. My pump has an aux switch at the pump to move the slides. I would send some pictures But I'm a little slow at that stuff.
Wayne
__________________
Wayne & Marti , Yogi Dog Ford 2012 F350 PSD Old Blue ....Mobile Suite 2012 38 REB3 w/ Vanity Slide Peotone , Illinois VIET NAM VET 1st CAV 70-71
yogi154 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2009, 08:34 PM   #23
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Wayne,

It sounds like the exact same set up except my slide out switch is on the wall that separates the bath room from the front entrance. I have 12 v through those breakers. Do you have a slide out controller circuit board? I will take some pics right now and upload them.
__________________
DeanT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2009, 08:55 PM   #24
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
I have attached pics of the hydraulic pump, electric motor, and switch.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rv 001.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	69.9 KB
ID:	803   Click image for larger version

Name:	rv 002.jpg
Views:	128
Size:	59.8 KB
ID:	804  

Click image for larger version

Name:	rv 003.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	57.0 KB
ID:	805   Click image for larger version

Name:	rv 004.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	44.4 KB
ID:	806  

Click image for larger version

Name:	rv 006.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	54.0 KB
ID:	807   Click image for larger version

Name:	rv 008.jpg
Views:	126
Size:	37.3 KB
ID:	808  

Click image for larger version

Name:	rv 011.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	37.6 KB
ID:	809  
__________________
DeanT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2009, 10:27 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
450Donn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas,OR
Posts: 2,552
Basically the exact same setup as every Forest River towable has used for ever. NO you do not have a controller of any sort. What you have is a heavy duty rocker switch that supplies 12VDC from the battery to the motor or the motor starting relay. If you can get the motor to work using jumper cables from a known hot battery, then the problem is either the switch or the starting relay. One of the pictures shows the resettable breaker and one is showing the inside switch for the slide control. You have 12 VDC at one side of the switch right? Have you tried a jumper wire between the 12VDC hot and one of the other wires and see what happens? Just be sure not to touch hot to ground.
__________________
Don and Lorri
2007 Dodge 3500 dually
Resident Dummy.
450Donn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2009, 02:03 PM   #26
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
I have a friend helping me that is an electrician he is wondering aboout hte switches, they are rated for 10.1 amp @125vac should the switches not be rated for a dc voltage?
__________________

__________________
DeanT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Slide problem on '08 Diplomat PDQ Carl G Monaco Owner's Forum 4 10-16-2009 05:58 PM
Damon Tuscany Bedroom Slide Problem TRACKS Traveler Thor Industries Owner's Forum 9 05-18-2009 09:38 AM
Slide wiring problem Butch Sword Newmar Owner's Forum 4 07-31-2007 05:34 PM
Power Gear slide gear box---help! Ragman MH-General Discussions & Problems 6 06-20-2006 05:38 PM
Help, Living room slide problem Cedar41 Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 3 08-04-2005 11:54 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.