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Old 10-23-2015, 07:05 PM   #1
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Slide out problem

I have a 2001 Cougar with the Lippert electric super slide. The slide will only move an inch or two and quit. I'll wait a few seconds, press the switch and the same thing happens. I have a new battery and connected to shore power. I have by passed the ckt breaker, no change. I can decouple the operating linkage and move the room in and out with a socket and ratchet so I don't believe there is a problem with the slide. I took the motor off and checked the brushes and visually the armature. All looked clean, no hot or burned spots. The motor runs good on the work bench. Can the slide room relay cause such a problem. That and the gear box are the only things I haven't checked. The motor is a Dewald DN13461.
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Old 10-23-2015, 07:28 PM   #2
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There may or may not be a relay, all the power may be in the switch.

What do your interior lights do once the motor stops? Get really dim? If so, you have voltage drop like the battery or converter can't handle the load.

What is the converter output?

Is the converter charge getting to the battery? Other way of checking, shut off the converter and see if battery power makes it inside to lights and such.

Switch is possibly bad.
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Old 10-23-2015, 07:36 PM   #3
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If you can manage to get power directly to the slide motor, does it function properly? This would isolate whether or not the motor is the problem. If it works, than the problem is somewhere other than the motor. If it doesn't, then the motor is bad, but doesn't necessarily prove that something else isn't wrong as well.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:31 PM   #4
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Maybe just lubricate the slide?
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:56 PM   #5
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Sounds like the stall adjument needs to be recalibrated.

From the manual.

7 Stall force calibration.
If the system stalls out before reaching end of stroke, or if the room doesn’t seal as tightly as desired, then stall force may be increased. ***CAUTION*** IF ROOM STALLS MID STROKE, MAKE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OBJECTS IN THE WAY, OR THAT SOMETHING HAS BEEN PULLED INTO THE SYSTEM, CAUSING RESTRICTED MOVEMENT. ALSO CHECK SYSTEM VOLTAGE. EVEN THOUGH THE SYSTEM CAN RUN ON AS LITTLE AS 8VDC, THE FORCE AVAILABLE TO MOVE THE ROOM IS REDUCED ON LOWER VOLTAGE. IF THE ROOM IS FREE OF OBSTRUCTIONS AND VOLTAGE IS SUFFICIENT (12VDC) AND THE SYSTEM STILL STALLS MID STROKE, ONLY THEN SHOULD STALL FORCE BE INCREASED.
Press mode button 4 times quickly, then press a 5th time and hold for approximately 5 seconds.
The red led will start to flash,flash,flash,…Break the seal on the cover over the stall force calibration hole. Directly below the sealed hole is a potentiometer. Using a small screwdriver increase the stall force by turning clockwise, turning counter-clockwise will reduce stall force. Once the desired setting has been reached press the mode button and both led’s will light up. The board is now back in auto mode. It is desirable to increase the stall force only enough to insure proper functioning of the room. Increasing the setting beyond the amount needed only shortens system life.

Regards,
Dan
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
Sounds like the stall adjument needs to be recalibrated.

From the manual.

7 Stall force calibration.
If the system stalls out before reaching end of stroke, or if the room doesn’t seal as tightly as desired, then stall force may be increased. ***CAUTION*** IF ROOM STALLS MID STROKE, MAKE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OBJECTS IN THE WAY, OR THAT SOMETHING HAS BEEN PULLED INTO THE SYSTEM, CAUSING RESTRICTED MOVEMENT. ALSO CHECK SYSTEM VOLTAGE. EVEN THOUGH THE SYSTEM CAN RUN ON AS LITTLE AS 8VDC, THE FORCE AVAILABLE TO MOVE THE ROOM IS REDUCED ON LOWER VOLTAGE. IF THE ROOM IS FREE OF OBSTRUCTIONS AND VOLTAGE IS SUFFICIENT (12VDC) AND THE SYSTEM STILL STALLS MID STROKE, ONLY THEN SHOULD STALL FORCE BE INCREASED.
Press mode button 4 times quickly, then press a 5th time and hold for approximately 5 seconds.
The red led will start to flash,flash,flash,…Break the seal on the cover over the stall force calibration hole. Directly below the sealed hole is a potentiometer. Using a small screwdriver increase the stall force by turning clockwise, turning counter-clockwise will reduce stall force. Once the desired setting has been reached press the mode button and both led’s will light up. The board is now back in auto mode. It is desirable to increase the stall force only enough to insure proper functioning of the room. Increasing the setting beyond the amount needed only shortens system life.

Regards,
Dan
Sounds like the stall settings for a Lippert Schwintek System, am I right?

If so, I doubt this applies to the OP system, as I don't think Schwintek was out then.
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Old 10-24-2015, 11:16 AM   #7
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Thanks for the replies. Ok, I bypassed the relay with a hot jumper the room goes out OK, but slows down some coming in and the jumper wire get pretty hot. I felt of the motor and it's cool but seems like it's loading up. I have the circuit breaker in the feed for protection. I'll try to clean and lube the slide rails. Seems like the relay pack could be, at least, part of the problem.
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wargle View Post
Thanks for the replies. Ok, I bypassed the relay with a hot jumper the room goes out OK, but slows down some coming in and the jumper wire get pretty hot. I felt of the motor and it's cool but seems like it's loading up. I have the circuit breaker in the feed for protection. I'll try to clean and lube the slide rails. Seems like the relay pack could be, at least, part of the problem.

So that appears to eliminate the slide motor itself as the problem. Was the jumper wire equivalent or larger in size than the installed wire? Also, are you coming directly from the battery with your jumper wire, or are you getting power from somewhere where there is a possibility of smaller wiring between it and the battery? If directly to the battery, using the same size wiring that the coach uses, consider replacing wiring with a larger size . . . .but that's still not your problem.

As other posters have stated, you may be able to adjust the "stall force" to allow the slide to move in and out, but I would do that ONLY after you eliminate any potential binding in the slide mechanism. On how to adjust the stall force, you will have to look to other posts as I have no experience with that.

Did this problem occur suddenly, or did it get progressively worse over time? Is this YOUR rig (not the same as in you signature block), or are you helping out a friend?
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