Community Forums

Sloopygirl · 05-11-2013, 02:57 PM

I've been looking for a small 5th wheel - not lightweight, I want 2 axles. I've seen one I like that weighs 8100 GW. I'll be pulling it with a Chevy/GMC 2500 HD with long bed and possibly extended cab, I've been told longer wheelbase is better. I've just been told that they don't make many smaller 5th wheels because they're bouncy and don't track well. Unfortunately, I didn't find out what he towed it with or if it had only 1 axle.

I'd appreciate any comments anyone has if they've had experience with this type setup. I really don't want anything too big, it's just me and a cat.

Thanks for any opinions, the knowledge here is very helpful for us newbies.

Franka548 · 05-11-2013, 04:57 PM

Sloopygirl,
If you found a trailer that you like and is in good condition go for it. A fifth wheel, even a short one will pull better than a travel trailer. My parents pulled a small 5er with an S-10 without problems, so with a 3/4 ton GM, you won't have any issues.
When you get it ready to go, take a trip to your local CAT scales and weigh it ready to travel. When you get the weights, check on the door sticker to make sure that you are within the weight limits of your vehicle, and also the trailer sticker, which is usually on the drivers side front side of the trailer for the trailer axle weights.
Frank

RoyM · 05-11-2013, 05:26 PM

We tow an 18 1/2' fiver with a 3500 lb gvwr. Initially we tried it with a Ranger 4.0, no joy there so upgraded to a Ram 2500. It tows extremely well, the only issue so far is backing up. It jacknifes quickly with too much steering input, longer rigs are more forgiving. With two axles you are looking at a minimum of 23'. Keep the weight down to around 10,000 max, that 2500 will have absolutely no issues.
Pick up a couple of traffic cones at a local truck or industrial supply, find an empty parking lot and practice backing and parking 'till you can do it in your sleep. Most important of all, enjoy the journey. RVing is addicting

ralphie · 05-11-2013, 07:01 PM

Mine's about 30', 8400lbs loaded, and doesn't bounce abnormally, I suppose. I've forgotten things on the counters and they're still there when we arrive.

SmokeyWren · 05-11-2013, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sloopygirl

I'll be pulling it with a Chevy/GMC 2500 HD with long bed and possibly extended cab, I've been told longer wheelbase is better.

The longer the wheelbase of the tow vehicle, the better the ride, whether towing or not.

I had a SuperCab with 6.5' bed, and it rode good, but I traded it for a 3' longer CrewCab with 8' bed and that was much better.

Quote:

I've just been told that they don't make many smaller 5th wheels because they're bouncy and don't track well.

Baloney! I had a 21' low-profile Thor Wanderer with no slide. And when properly loaded, it didn't ounce any worse than any other trailer.

Darling Wife soon vetoed that low-profile small trailer, not because of any problem with towing the trailer, but only because low profile meant she had to crawl around to make the bed. With some fairly severe arthritis, crawling around to make the bed was no fun.

So we graduated to a 25' mid-profile with one big slide. 25' is still "small", but with the rear kitchen and one big slide for dinette and couch, there seemed to be acres of room for two old folks and a dog or two, and on occasion a grandkid or two. Mid-profile means about 5' from floor to ceiling in the bedroom, so she could get around the bed by stooping and without crawling. Much, much better.

Our 25' with one big slide had a GVWR of 7,900 pounds, and we loaded it to the max. Our '99.5 F-250 diesel CrewCab long bed 4x2 was overloaded by a coupla hundred pounds over the GVWR of that truck. Ford increased the GVW of that F-250 by 2,200 pounds in 2005, so now a 2005-up F-250 diesel would have plenty of available payload to tow that trailer without being overloaded. And I suspect the newer 2500 Government Motors and FIATs would also now have enough payload capacity to tow a 9000 pound 5er without being overloaded.

The following 5e is close to the specs of our 5er, except the GVWR is now 9,000. Your truck should be able to tow that 5er without exceeding any of the truck's weight ratings. The 5er is the Keystone Cougar High Country 246RLS

Sloopygirl · 05-11-2013, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoyM

We tow an 18 1/2' fiver with a 3500 lb gvwr. Initially we tried it with a Ranger 4.0, no joy there so upgraded to a Ram 2500. It tows extremely well, the only issue so far is backing up. It jacknifes quickly with too much steering input, longer rigs are more forgiving. With two axles you are looking at a minimum of 23'. Keep the weight down to around 10,000 max, that 2500 will have absolutely no issues.
Pick up a couple of traffic cones at a local truck or industrial supply, find an empty parking lot and practice backing and parking 'till you can do it in your sleep. Most important of all, enjoy the journey. RVing is addicting

Great idea - large empty lot with no one watching!! Great way to learn - Thanks!!

And I expect traveling in an RV will be as addicting as my sailboat traveling was - for 10 years! I just like to move......

Thanks for the info!

Sloopygirl · 05-11-2013, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Franka548

Sloopygirl,
When you get it ready to go, take a trip to your local CAT scales and weigh it ready to travel. When you get the weights, check on the door sticker to make sure that you are within the weight limits of your vehicle, and also the trailer sticker, which is usually on the drivers side front side of the trailer for the trailer axle weights.

Thanks for the input - so glad for all the knowledge you guys are willing to share!

Sloopygirl · 05-11-2013, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokeyWren

Darling Wife soon vetoed that low-profile small trailer, not because of any problem with towing the trailer, but only because low profile meant she had to crawl around to make the bed. With some fairly severe arthritis, crawling around to make the bed was no fun.

Thanks so much for your help - I understand about crawling on the bed to make the bed - I lived on a sailboat for 10 years - actually 2 different ones and always had to crawl around on the bed to make it up. She's right - it's no fun, even without arthritis - I didn't have it back then......

The floorplan you posted is just about the same as the one I'm looking at - except for the huge closet space you have - and the slide for the bed.

I appreciate all the knowledge you guys have to share!

SmokeyWren · 05-12-2013, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sloopygirl

The floorplan you posted is just about the same as the one I'm looking at - except for the huge closet space you have - and the slide for the bed.

That floorplan is for a new 2014 model that is about the same size as the one I have - about 25 long'. My floorplan is different, with a rear kitchen and no slide in the bedroom. You'll appreciate the big closet if you full-time in it. The small slide for the bed shouldn't make much difference, but it shouldn't hurt anything either, other than add a coupla hundred pounds to the weight of the trailer.

With a GM 2500, you must be aware of the limited weight capacity that truck has for pin weight (a.k.a. kingpin weight or hitch weight). If you choose a 5er with GVWR over about 9,000 pounds, you'll probably be overloaded - exceed the GVWR of the truck - when wet and loaded for the road. So ignore those big beautiful 5ers with GVWR of 10,000 or 12,000 pounds. They may be within the "tow rating" of your truck, but the tow rating ignores GVWR, and GVWR is your limiter for max trailer weight. The tow rating tells you only the weight of a 5er you can pull, but ignores the payload (including hitch weight) your truck can haul without being overloaded. You don't want to be overloaded, regardless of all the folks that don't understand engineering and think it's okay to be overloaded.

Kewl · 05-16-2013, 11:43 PM

I have a 22 foot low profile 5er, and it doesn't bounce. Trailer gross weight is 6300 lbs., empty is 3780 lbs. it is a low profile, and we do have to crawl to make the bed, but it works for us. Unfortunately it is hard to find a truly small 5er these days. I like the smallest Puma by Palamino (230-FBS). At less than 25' and within to tow ratings you are looking at that could be a good option for you. The only thing I don't like is how tall it is, but that is just me. One of my new favorite campsites has a height limit of 11' 9", the puma is 12' 2".

JohnBoyToo · 05-17-2013, 09:46 AM

Hmmm, mid-profile - you are interesting me Smokey !
would only kill about a half a gazilion bugs instead of the 2 gazillion I did on last trip

how about these guys for light weight rv's:
Escape Trailer Industries > Home

Home - CrossRoads RV

Welcome to ForksRV.com | Custom Luxury 5th Wheels and Travel Trailers

and if you really want to go SMALL :

RunawayCampers.com - Home

SmokeyWren · 05-17-2013, 11:28 AM

The Escape 5er is too small, the Runaway is not a 5er. The Crossroads Sunset Trail 5er: Exterior Height (with A/C): 12' 7". I can't get the Axiom website to show me any specs, but I suspect the 5er is more than 12' tall too. My mid-profile 2000 Keystone Sprinter 25FKS is less than 12' high. (I parked it in my barn with a door opening less than 12' high.)

road dogs · 05-19-2013, 11:21 AM

We just upgraded our Arctic Fox 24-5N which is smaller/lighter than yours. We have gone coast to coast and many trips to coast, Colorado, etc. Never had any "bouncy" issues except on a few very bad roads (Hwy 160 between Grand Canyon and Durango comes to mind), but a rear kitchen requires some extra storage tie down in any trailer. We also have a MorRyde pin box, which makes an amazing difference in ease of towing. Make sure you have about 20% of trailer weight on the pin and you are towing level. I see a lot of people pulling 5th wheels with lifted trucks and the front of the 5r sticking way high, not a good situation.