Something might be blocking my septic valve.. how to fix?

[Brandonrv]

So my septic valve is leaking. As in when I take the cap off septic gushes out. Thing is it also wont flush all the way. I flush it and store the RV and then weeks later when i take it back out septic has leaked.

So I'm guessing something is stuck.

This is a brand new 5er only used a few times. Curious how one might go about fixing this?

I was going to take it to the dealer, but I'm afraid they are going to say it's my fault and charge me for it.

I've tried opening and closing a bunch and it actually seems to be closing all the way, but there is a small enough leak that over time septic fills up the outlet.

Are there any products that I might try to eat away at whatever might be stuck in there? Or any suggestions before I give in and take it to the dealer?

Thanks

[jfran304]

You can get a twist on valve for the black/gray tank that will stop the gushing when you remove the cap until you can either replace the original valve or find what is not letting it close fully.

Twist-on Valve - Valterra T58 - Sewer Fittings & Adapters - Camping World

Replacing the black tank valve is fairly easy but messy.

Jon

[Skip426]

There have been reports of a poor assembly line practice , of the cut out from the black tank inlet being dropped into and not dug out of the tank , and blocking the outlet . It usually takes a flex camera to check this out ; but if the tank has never dumped properly, on your new RV , it's a possibility.
As for the black tank valve not sealing when closed , assembly line debris is also possible there , and could have already resulted to damage of the , valves two seals , or the valve wasn't installed properly in the first place. In either case the valve needs to be replaced , and if the tank can't be properly and fully drained , it's going to get real messy ; to say the least.

JMHO: Take it to the dealer , and tell them in advance ; that if they try and charge you , you're going to want to see anything they remove from the tank ( that they think may be your fault) and any parts they replace to fix your issues.

[Brandonrv]

thanks to you both.

[Lostdog]

Originally Posted by Skip426

There have been reports of a poor assembly line practice , of the cut out from the black tank inlet being dropped into and not dug out of the tank , and blocking the outlet . It usually takes a flex camera to check this out ; but if the tank has never dumped properly, on your new RV , it's a possibility.
As for the black tank valve not sealing when closed , assembly line debris is also possible there , and could have already resulted to damage of the , valves two seals , or the valve wasn't installed properly in the first place. In either case the valve needs to be replaced , and if the tank can't be properly and fully drained , it's going to get real messy ; to say the least.

JMHO: Take it to the dealer , and tell them in advance ; that if they try and charge you , you're going to want to see anything they remove from the tank ( that they think may be your fault) and any parts they replace to fix your issues.

Exactly what happened to our rig. A round piece of the tank from the install. It is a warranty item. All the other suggestions above are spot on.

Oh by the way....it isn't a "septic" tank. No digestion going on in there. It's simply a holding tank.

[bddadles]

I have to agree with the others that it is either a piece of debris blocking a part of the outlet or the valve needs to be replaced. I lean towards the piece of stuff in the tank blocking a complete drain. However, if you think the valve is closing completely and the valve is leaking you may have both problems and the valve may need to be rebuilt anyway. I assume that you have dumped and then towed and whatever is in the way has not been dislodged.

Try to get the dealer to fix it.

Here is something else to try. I have what they call a driveway washer. It is a small nozzle (1/4") at the outlet. attach it to a short hose that you can push down the toilet and then put a shutoff valve between that and a regular water hose. This lets you turn off the water right from the bathroom. Leave the outside valve open and start flushing thru the toilet. The small dia. nozzle will increase the water pressure and help break up anything in the tank and hopefully dislodge any debris.
Of course on the other hand if something is blocking things you may break it loose and it could possibly get wedged in the valve and stop it from working altogether. Then its tear it out and replace the valve. This should be a 2 person job just to help hold. The valve should be held in place between the tank and the output line with 4 bolts. It should not be a hard job just nasty and messy.
Good luck.

Brad

[MtnTrek]

I'd second Skip426's assessment.
Some waste valves are cable operated. Have seen and heard of too long a cable getting in a bind and not operating properly.
A crappy situation indeed requiring intestinal fortitude. Please let us know what passes.

[Brandonrv]

10-4 everyone. Called the dealer made an appointment. Has to be something with the valve since it's been going on since day 1.

Hopefully they don't try to pin it on me.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Brandonrv-

Because it introduces water into the tank "backwards," I've found flushing with a Valterra Flush-King can dislodge stuff that "top-flushing" seems to leave behind.

There are copycats for the Flush-King. Do not buy them.

The Valterra Hydro-Flush attachments (links here and here), combined with the twist-on valve, will probably work as well as the Flush-King.

[NITEHAWK]

Had what looked like a small piece of bone stuck in the gate valve. Just enough that the seals couldn't go all the way shut. Had to take the entire valve off & replaced it. Coach is 28 years old so probably time anyway.

Anything stuck between the sliding knife blade and the seals can prevent sealing and the valve leaks. Not a pleasant surprise the first time it happens!!

[MtnTrek]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

Brandonrv-

Because it introduces water into the tank "backwards," I've found flushing with a Valterra Flush-King can dislodge stuff that "top-flushing" seems to leave behind.

There are copycats for the Flush-King. Do not buy them.

The Valterra Hydro-Flush attachments (links here and here), combined with the twist-on valve, will probably work as well as the Flush-King.

I like and use the Valterra Flush-King third valve also, a worthwhile expenditure. Very useful.

[rpierrie]

Originally Posted by MtnTrek

A crappy situation indeed requiring intestinal fortitude. Please let us know what passes.