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Old 03-10-2015, 07:16 PM   #1
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Subframe for lift???

Has anyone here had a subframe added onto your 5er to lift your trailer? If so, what are your experiences, advice, cautions? I have a 2014 GrAnd Design 303rls towed now by a 2015 F350 FX4 CC LWB SRW. my last truck with only 12000 miles was a lemon and towed it perfectly. I was offered an F350 for next to nothing in trade and the truck is 2.5 " taller with a stiffer suspension. I'm about 4" nose high.

I found a shop that does welding and fabrication with experience in this field to do the work for 700.00. The prices went anywhere from 600 to 1600. I heard this is tHe best way to raise a trailer safely.

One last thing, can they reuse the hangers or do they need to fabricate new ones for the shackles?

Thank you!
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:20 PM   #2
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Its a doable project--DRV adds a 2" riser at the factory for customers with new trucks that are worried about the nose-high attitude. It is simple welding for a competent shop, just a worry about alignment. I also would have stouter hangers made up, unless the factory ones have a lot of 'beef' to them--which would not be the norm these days.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:20 PM   #3
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If you get answers to this question about lifting the trailer, please contact me. I just purchased a Montana 3455SA and it is about 8" nose high when hooked to my Chevy Dually 4x4 and I have the Pin Box set as short as possible and the 5th wheel plate in the lowest setting. The truck is stock height and has not been lifted, it's just a really tall truck. I only see 2 options to solve my problem, either lower the truck or raise the trailer and neither one will be cheap!
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Old 03-11-2015, 08:25 AM   #4
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I have seen pictures of the modification that wingnut60 has described above. It was a 2" lift with new, longer hangers.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:43 AM   #5
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Can you run 16" tires on the 303? If so that would get you another 1+". And you could run some LT tires for longer safer tire wear. Then you can get another 1+" by lowering the center equalizer hanger. There's a guy on the GD forum that needed to raise his 303 also and he just lowered the center hanger.
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:43 PM   #6
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Subframe for lift???

I dropped the 5er off this morning! It will be done in a few days.

There have been other members who have tried running 16" tires, but some have bottom out due to lack of travel room. As far as extending the center hanger, if you can picture the factory mounts as putting the springs in the shape of a smiley face. If you drop the center hanger, it will actually lower that attachment point in comparison to the mounting points on each side. I understand that that will give me 1.5" of height but no shop will warranty the work , some won't even perform it, and Lippert states that only the modification will not be warranted. As far as my factory warranty goes, it is up in May anyways.

What if a shackle does give way, and the trailer suffers damage from the hanger extension; Lippert will easily claim that the damage was done from the mod.....which wasn't warrantied. In the end, only I am out of however much damages are. No vicarious liability there.

Okay, now if you build a subframe, you are theoretically not changing the angles of the spring mounts whatsoever. You are increasing clearance for tire travel, but most importantly, you will tow level. My total height after modification will be 13'1" with the recent addition of a second air upfront, towing level, 7-8" of bed clearance, and a solid subframe that I won't worry about going down the street,
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Old 03-11-2015, 08:19 PM   #7
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The F350 has the same springs as the F250 while having taller spacers to allow more spring travel thus more weight before the drive line loose the alignment. I choose a F250 due to lower height. And to hold more weight added more spring leafs. When loaded the drive line is still within limits and my unit is perfectly lined up when towing.
I did lift the previous trailer to suit my lowered F250 by 2 inches by adopting the Jayco adjustable height system. But I still had to lower my F250 by removing the 4 x 4. spacers over the axles. Everything worked well for 2 years and 20k miles.
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:09 AM   #8
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Hi sub frame is the best way to go. I raised my fifth wheel 4 inch to make it tow level
Make sure you go in a certified shop that build of modify tractor or trailer frame
I have winter package on my so it was extra cost to move it out of way and put it back
Trailer still tow nicely even better now.
It was nose high by about 10 inch
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby1857 View Post
If you get answers to this question about lifting the trailer, please contact me. I just purchased a Montana 3455SA and it is about 8" nose high when hooked to my Chevy Dually 4x4 and I have the Pin Box set as short as possible and the 5th wheel plate in the lowest setting. The truck is stock height and has not been lifted, it's just a really tall truck. I only see 2 options to solve my problem, either lower the truck or raise the trailer and neither one will be cheap!
Raise it 3 inch with subframe
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:14 AM   #10
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My work was repair work, but I got a little jump out of it too.

B4:


After:


$700 is a good price.
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Old 06-19-2015, 11:14 PM   #11
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Look good they did a clean job on it
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Old 06-20-2015, 12:53 AM   #12
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I got mine done but just forgot to post pics. I was extremely satisfied. Check out the cross member supports. Got a total of 3.5" for a level tow! Went from 6" of clearance to almost 9.5 with a perfectly level tow.
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