Support structure under tank bent...

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

Well, I started out just planning on replacing the fresh water drain valve, when I pulled the skin off the belly the thin angle iron under the tank was really badly bowed.

One end is especially bad, where it broke the press board above it.

The angle iron is 1.5" on a side, so I've already got 4 pieces of thick walled (like 11 ga) square tube cut.

My plan is to put those between existing angle iron, then press the angle iron straight, and leave both in place.

There wasn't insulation between the tank and the frame rails, so I was going to stuff the fiberglass batting that was below the tank up there, and put 1 1/2" thick foam below the tank with construction glue to the press board...

Any words of wisdom from someone who's done similar repair?

[Superslif]

I noticed on my trailer the fresh water tank has a 3rd angle iron running in the middle of the tank. I usually don't travel with water. Both side angle irons stay nice and flush against the floor of the trailer. But when I fill up with water (46 gallons) at the campground that middle support angle iron bows down about 2". Even empty, the that middle angle iron stays bowed down with a 2" gap between it and the bottom of the tank. Do you travel with the fresh water full? Updating those support rails should do the trick. The manufacture should have designed that better knowing toyhaulers are often used "off the grid".

[FiverBob]

Jeff,
I think I would be adding a piece of 1/2" plywood under that chip board before putting the additional bracing in - - that would help stiffen the whole thing up. Let the new bracing support the plywood - - it would spread out the support - - the chipboard looks somewhat stressed.
Bob

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

Thanks Jim and Bob.

I do often travel with the fresh tank full, and sometimes not over the best of roads.

On the other hand the thing has an 80 gallon tank, so you would think they intended it to be traveling full to no hookup locations...

Anyway, the angle iron on both edges is welded to the frame. I can push the tank up a bit, but with those two end pieces welded I don't think I can get plywood in there without getting out the cutting torch.

I'm thinking reducing the span with more (and stronger) cross pieces is going to be the best I can do.

Thank you guys for the input.

[wingnut60]

"On the other hand the thing has an 80 gallon tank, so you would think they intended it to be traveling full to no hookup locations...":

Nope, they did it the minimum way to keep costs down--80 gallons water is over 650 lbs weight, you need to reinforce the cross braces as you state.

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

Well, I added to the unladen weight a bit with square tube, but I don't think the water tank will be going anywhere.

The stock angle iron is pretty weak and flimsy.

The tank seems to have kept the sag in the middle, so that it isn't sitting on the wood around the rear edge. Hopefully that won't hurt anything, or maybe it will flatten out over time?