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Old 08-27-2015, 08:24 AM   #15
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I have had life insurance since the early 60s but have never had the chance to use it--but I still carry some anyway--go figure??? Lots of debate about where best to install the S/P--before or after the xfer switch. While I agree the genny could fail too, my main concern is protection from shore-power issues. I also like the idea that if for some reason my S/P failed [eg, I bought a Surge Guard Vs a Progressive Industries product], I would still be able to limp home on the genny Vs having an on the road "fix it".....
PS--installing it before the x-fer switch eliminates the need to wait an additional two minutes [more like 20 seconds with PI] for you coffee....
Difference is for the surge protector you pay the premium once and are covered for life. For life insurance you pay until after the fact. The surge protector protects you from lightning where life insurance won't.
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:55 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
I have had life insurance since the early 60s but have never had the chance to use it--but I still carry some anyway--go figure??? Lots of debate about where best to install the S/P--before or after the xfer switch. While I agree the genny could fail too, my main concern is protection from shore-power issues. I also like the idea that if for some reason my S/P failed [eg, I bought a Surge Guard Vs a Progressive Industries product], I would still be able to limp home on the genny Vs having an on the road "fix it".....
PS--installing it before the x-fer switch eliminates the need to wait an additional two minutes [more like 20 seconds with PI] for you coffee....

Just a couple comments:

A good surge protector with EMS is similar to Life Insurance in that when you realize you needed it, it is too late!

The decision of TRC Surge Guard vs Progressive Industries is a 1 year warranty compared to a Lifetime warranty. In addition the TRC models do not have a good record if your investigate the reviews and various RV social media groups. Any company that provides a lifetime warranty must have confidence that they are using the best components they can buy. You truly get what you pay for.

In terms of a failure, the Progressive Industries with EMS units have a bypass switch built in.


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Old 08-27-2015, 12:14 PM   #17
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I have had both, Surge Guard and PMI. When we traded up to 50 amp coach from a 30, we gave the 30 amp Surge Guard to a friend. Bought a PMI portable, not permanently mounted for the 50 amp coach. It has helped me out on a few occasions, once with an open ground where I was told, "that's a brand new box, can't be anything wrong with it" and once in a brown out condition. Would not leave home without it.
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Old 08-27-2015, 03:22 PM   #18
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I've been RV'ing since 1957, never had a surge protector in all that time and have never lost an electrical item to low voltage or high voltage or even a surge. The present rig does have one built in though. Might be glad we have it someday though.
For the first few years Hardly a week would go by we did not have someone plugging into a wrong voltage outlet (Hardly a month without "I hired an electrician and......"

I have been in parks with SERIOUS power issues myself (how's 84 volts grab ya).

I have also seen a thread (usually folks who do this do not post) where the gentelman plugged his PT-30C into the outlet in his buddy's garage and had no power in his RV.. (Ok so he posted that in the evening, went to bed and diagnosed in AM)

Yup he'd plugged into a 30 amp outlet alright,,at 240 volts.

I will bet that man NEVER plugs in again without a surge guard, He learned his lesson, learned it well, and what makes it good is he learned it AT NO COST save a bit of reddening of the face (Why folks with that story do not normally post).

I can afford a lot of red face. But Converters, Microwaves, Televisions,, those get expensive.

True story: Campground I used to frequent was running on a 'Temporary" transformer.. Well one of the aluminum main feed cables fried. So the park manager (A licensed electrician) and his crew pulled all new cables.. COPPER (Same size) and restored power.. Park filled and the temporary transformer the power company had installed earlier with a promise to put in a proper one later fried. So the power company finally brought out a new transformer.. Swapped one of the hot legs with a neutral (Panel was wired L L N rather than L N L NOTE this is how the Power company wired it back when it was first put in)

The power company paid for a whole lot of Microwaves, Televisions and Converters and such that day. Half the park had appliance failures, and Roof top Air Conditioners are EXPENSIVE.
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Old 08-28-2015, 12:03 PM   #19
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3Thumbs,
This is the Surge Protector I got for our MH as insurance against expensive electrical parts.
Amazon, 30 Amps or 50 Amps.
X2 and would not be without it. Saved my bacon this year from a 178 volt connection in a campground.
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Old 08-28-2015, 05:55 PM   #20
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X2 and would not be without it. Saved my bacon this year from a 178 volt connection in a campground.
178? That's pretty creative of them.
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Old 08-30-2015, 02:50 PM   #21
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My new trilogy has that protection built into the transfer switch that was factory installed in the coach, but they use all motorhome stuff in this the only Fiver line that they sell. All manufacturers should install the protection units with all the electronics in these new units. Can you say expensive auto level computer?
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Old 08-30-2015, 02:57 PM   #22
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I started a thread relating to a surge/spike that hit our rig at a CG. It took out our microwave, keurig and convertor. We had a TRC Surge Guard protecting our rig. I was stumped as to how a surge/spike could have gotten by our surge protector until I found an article on the net which explained a few things. I'm pasting some useful information I found while researching our event.
- A spike is similar to a surge except that it lasts for one or two nanoseconds, whereas a surge lasts longer. A good analogy is water pressure. If your water pressure is excessively high, you'll have blown lines in your plumbing system.
-A surge protector will prevent these spikes and surges from passing through the system. It does this by utilizing metal oxide varistors, commonly knows as MOVs. A MOV does nothing at normal voltage levels, but when the voltage rises to an unsafe level, it shorts that power to ground. Energy surges are rated in units of joule.
-Most products referred to as surge protectors also contain some sort of low- and high-voltage protection. This is important because many RV electrical problems stem from low-voltage power from a campground pedestal. When the voltage drops, the amperage increases and this creates extra heat, which causes items such as motors and electronics to fail. A good surge protector will disconnect power to the RV whenever the incoming voltage falls out of the acceptable operating parameters, typically 106 volts on the low side and 132 volts on the high side.
- Later in the afternoon when other campers switch on their AC, the load on the grid can be too much, so the voltage drops to an unsafe level. Those campers without surge protectors run the risk of causing serious damage to their AC compressor motors, capacitors, and other electric components.
the majority of the Surge Guard units do not indicate if the MOVs have blown and will continue to pass current even after the surge protection capability has failed.
That is likely what happened to our surge protector. It likely protected us at some point, but without a sign that the MOV's had deteriorated to the point where the unit was not functioning/protecting as it was intended, we were literally sitting ducks till the fatal next surge/spike. I hope this is helpful and gets people thinking about their TRC surge guards. Our particular SG was 4 years old.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Articles.asp?ID=279 This chart does a good job comparing surge protectors. We have ordered a Progressive Industries EMS PT 50C through amazon which delivered to the Camp Ground.
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Old 08-30-2015, 03:42 PM   #23
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https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Articles.asp?ID=279 This chart does a good job comparing surge protectors. We have ordered a Progressive Industries EMS PT 50C through amazon which delivered to the Camp Ground.
Nice chart, but as the disclaimer says 'specifications are subject to change', they compare one manufacturer's obsolete model with another manufacturer's latest model, readers should pay attention.
Nevertheless, very informative.
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:38 AM   #24
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I had one installed in my trailer before we took delivery. I have only been fulltiming since the beginning of May and it has already shut down (protected us) from really low voltage in parks 3 or 4 times.

Not sure if any of those would have caused equipment problems, but knowing that the safe guard kicked in a few times in such a short amount of travels makes me feel like it is going to definitely pay for itself over the next 5, 10 or however many years we do this.
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Old 09-05-2015, 03:29 PM   #25
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Hi we were going to install the PI 50 amp hard wired but our cord doesn't come into the bay it comes in behind our fuse box inside the rv. There wasn't enough room to add a by pass to it tho so we bought the portable instead. We would rather have the hard wired. Any ideas on how to install it? I noticed an earlier reply that PI will advise how to bypass in the case of the unit not working. Would this be recommended?
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:17 PM   #26
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Hi we were going to install the PI 50 amp hard wired but our cord doesn't come into the bay it comes in behind our fuse box inside the rv. There wasn't enough room to add a by pass to it tho so we bought the portable instead. We would rather have the hard wired. Any ideas on how to install it? I noticed an earlier reply that PI will advise how to bypass in the case of the unit not working. Would this be recommended?

I have the PI 50 with EMS hard wired. It has a bypass built in with the switch on the remote display.


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Old 09-05-2015, 05:36 PM   #27
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Agree--the PI has a by-pass switch but the unit is still dependent on the magnetic contactors closing the contacts in a by-pass situation. If the contactors fail, the only way to by-pass is to re=wire around unit. Still believe PI has the best products on the market--customer service second to none......
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:24 PM   #28
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If the contractors fail, you have no choice but to rework the wiring unless you wire in your own bypass.


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