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Old 10-21-2013, 05:53 AM   #1
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Thought I had left my fridge problems behind ! :)

Yeppers, the nice new BIG residential fridge in the new 5er does fine as long as plugged in...

unplug and the fridge goes off,
no matter what the setting on the 5er's disconnect switch (shown below)...

first res fridge but 5th or so rv, so newbie at res pkg

Shouldn't the fridge be off if the master disconnect is off ?
Shouldn't the fridge be on if the master disconnect is on ?

Have a 9 day trip planned for Saturday and while the longest run is only 4 hours unplug, would like to see if there are any suggestions before I haul it back to my incompetent dealer ?!?

Thanks in advance !
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:11 AM   #2
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Uhh..... a resi fridge is only going to work from 120vac. Did you have a nice big Inverter installed to run it from your batteries when you're not plugged into shore power? If not, it's not going to run when unplugged.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:25 AM   #3
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Hope so since it came with a res fridge from the factory...

be careful what you assume about someone else...
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:55 AM   #4
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Hope so since it came with a res fridge from the factory...

be careful what you assume about someone else...
I am not familiar with your rig but my Holiday Rambler, with a Freedom 20 Inverter (factory original install) has the inverter on a separate dedicated leg to the batteries. It is NOT on the master disconnect. So, if my inverter is on, the 120vac devices are supplied power regardless of the 12vdc master disconnect. The inverter switch is the 120vac disconnect (when not on Genset or Shore power). However, if you have a remote panel for the inverter, the panel may be disabled by the master disconnect (and the inverter can't be turned on). Without a wiring diagram for your setup it's difficult to say.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:59 PM   #5
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If no inverter, no workee on 12 vdc. If you have an inverter, I suspect it is not working or not connected properly - so this must be checked.

The other possibility is if your batteries don't have a sufficient charge to power the frig through the inverter. If your slides work, I suspect your batteries are not the culprit.

Good luck,

Jim
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:08 PM   #6
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Sounds like that AC receptacle is not powered by the inverter. Never have seen an RV where all AC receptacles are powered by the inverter, usually just 3-4 at most.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:26 PM   #7
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Since the unit came factory equiped with a residential fridge it does most likely does have an inverter. However, is it a modified sine wave or pure sine wave inverter. Many newer electronics will not run properly on a modified sine wave inverter where older systems might work fine.
Not assuming anything, just asking.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:35 PM   #8
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I would think the inverter would not be switched via the master disconnect - but maybe so. But even if switched, when on, without shore power the inverter should run the refrigerator. The inverter is turned on correct? If yes, is there power to the refrigerator outlet (if not the inverter could be defective or mis-wired to the outlet)?

In any case, four hours without power will not affect the food inside if already good and cold.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:37 PM   #9
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I would think the inverter would not be switched via the master disconnect - but maybe so. But even if switched, when on, without shore power the inverter should run the refrigerator. The inverter is turned on correct? If yes, is there power to the refrigerator outlet (if not the inverter could be defective or mis-wired to the outlet)?

In any case, four hours without power will not affect the food inside if already good and cold.

X2 ... is there 120vac at ANY outlet when off shore power?
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:40 PM   #10
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Sounds like that AC receptacle is not powered by the inverter. Never have seen an RV where all AC receptacles are powered by the inverter, usually just 3-4 at most.

Yup ... but with a factory installed residential reefer you would expect the reefer to be on an inverter leg.
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:26 PM   #11
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ok - problem resolved.... well sort of...

We were loading up for our trip and had it plugged into the garage 20 amp to run the minimal stuff....

over night the gfi in the garage tripped.... so the rv was 'confused' (as was I !)

once gfi reset all is well... just a panic situation in that couldn't get sat dish down or bedroom slide to work, but lr slides worked - it was an odd pattern of what had power and what didn't

and yes a wiring diagram would have helped... but crisis averted and I didn't have to raise anyone's taxes..... yet
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:26 PM   #12
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You have a problem somewhere you need to find before it causes you more trouble. GFCI outlets usually don't just trip for no reason. You likely have an intermittent ground fault somewhere. Don't start thinking it was due to an overload. GFCI outlets don't care how many amps you're drawing, just that it's the same amount on the hot and neutral. You could pull 30 amps thru a 20 amp GFCI and if there's no ground fault it won't trip.
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:53 PM   #13
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Last time I looked at my residential refrigerator outlet, if the cord was plugged into the outlet the fridge would be running on 120 VAC regardless of whether the power was coming from shore power, generator power or inverter power.

If the cord is not plugged into the outlet, trust me it won't run.

Turning off the 12 VDC master switches for the house or the chassis will not have any effect on my 120 VAC residential refrigerator.

If there is no shore power or not having the generator running or not having the inverter turned on, YES my Samsung will NOT be running at all. My first clue is when I open up the door to get a cold beer and the lights are off. If that happened to me, I go searching as to why I don't have ANY power.

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