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Old 04-08-2016, 12:46 PM   #1
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Titanium info

Hello, just traveled to Canada and picked up my first fifth wheel, a Glendale titanium because after careful study decided I liked the design of the titanium. I drove it down from Canada to California and couldn't be happier. But as you may know they don't make them anymore so there isn't any dealers to talk to nor parts houses. I have some questions and probably will have more after my next trip. It didn't come with a manual, anyone know where to buy manuals for titanium 28E33SA 2008 . The 2 week trip down I learned a lot and need to learn a lot more. The thermostat seems to not work well sometimes turning off and on several times to get heating to work. To replace with a newer digital thermostat can i use any home thermostat or does it have to be a special rv thermostat? I'm not sure but I think it's a rubber roof. When home I went to clean everything and want to service it all. The roof is sort of black with mold spots so I ordered Best rubber roof cleaner from Amazon and cleaned, it was better but still moldy looking so on the last pass I added a gallon of bleach into the bucket with the cleaner and it came clean...even the sealant around the vents etc turned white. Was that a bad idea? The sealant looks fairly good but has a few cracks. Can I add sealant over the existing sealant where the small cracks are or do I have to remove and put new? What's the best treatment for the rubber seals around the 3 pop outs, and what do I put on the mechanism under to quiet the squeaking when I open and close the pop outs? Sorry for all the questions.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:05 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Alex_49 View Post
Hello, just traveled to Canada and picked up my first fifth wheel, a Glendale titanium because after careful study decided I liked the design of the titanium. I drove it down from Canada to California and couldn't be happier. But as you may know they don't make them anymore so there isn't any dealers to talk to nor parts houses. I have some questions and probably will have more after my next trip. It didn't come with a manual, anyone know where to buy manuals for titanium 28E33SA 2008 . The 2 week trip down I learned a lot and need to learn a lot more. The thermostat seems to not work well sometimes turning off and on several times to get heating to work. To replace with a newer digital thermostat can i use any home thermostat or does it have to be a special rv thermostat? I'm not sure but I think it's a rubber roof. When home I went to clean everything and want to service it all. The roof is sort of black with mold spots so I ordered Best rubber roof cleaner from Amazon and cleaned, it was better but still moldy looking so on the last pass I added a gallon of bleach into the bucket with the cleaner and it came clean...even the sealant around the vents etc turned white. Was that a bad idea? The sealant looks fairly good but has a few cracks. Can I add sealant over the existing sealant where the small cracks are or do I have to remove and put new? What's the best treatment for the rubber seals around the 3 pop outs, and what do I put on the mechanism under to quiet the squeaking when I open and close the pop outs? Sorry for all the questions.
OK, with that Titanium - first of all, see your PM as I'm attaching the link to the Titanium Owners Group.

There is no owner's manual per se, much like any other RV out there. Take a look at the appliances, find out what model they are and pull whatever you need from the net. That includes the BAL bed room closet slide and the two Lippert main slides. The hot water heater may need the mixing valve bypassed if you get scalding water.

There is one major consideration with a Titanium - the axles. If you have Dexter Nevr Lube and 10 mm offset wheels, you may need to change either the axles or the wheels. If you have the E-Z Lube axles )they have a zerk on the end of the spindle, the previous owner has already replaced them under a recall. Use the Titanium site for lots of information on that

Oh and we had an '06 28E33TS until 2014 and loved it but the bed was a problem for my wife so we had to go another way if we wanted to stay RVing
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Old 04-08-2016, 02:45 PM   #3
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AS mentioned...........
DO an inventory on Brand/Model of components and then look up specific service manuals for each. Print them out and put in a 3 ring binder. You will then have a real manual vs some generic mfg. one. (ie: Atwood GE9-EXT Service Manual)

Above model is an example of a Atwood WH using a 'mixing valve'
Mixing valves can get clogged up----------OEMs are roughly $130. Ones at Home Depot etc can be used roughly $80

IF......IF you have an XT model (mixing valve) you can do away with it BUT you should change the t-stat to prevent instant scalding issue. XT uses a 160*F preset T-stat and mixing valve controls hot out to 130*F. W/O mixing valve----160*F water is at faucet hot side. DANGER---that is INSTANT scalding temp. Mods can be made for lower temp controls

Roof........go back up and RINSE while lightly using a brush and make sure ALL bleach has been rised off.
Then and areas that hae signs of cracking in caulking-------light scape and remove any loose caulking then reseal/cover with Dicor self-leveling caulk (horizontal surfaces---roof vents/fans etc. NOT around A/C Unit!!) or Dicor Non-self leveling caulk (vertical surfaces----roof/sidewalls, trim etc)

T-stat.......
Yes a residential digital t-stat can be used. Just need to get one that uses AA bateries for the display function (Hunter/Honeywell/LUX are ones that have been used)
Depending on which A/C Unit & Furnace Brands used will deteremine how wiring is done (some use the 12V Red wire and don't use Blue wire grd----some don't use 12V Red and DO use Blue Grd wire)
You can PM when you have Brand/Model of A/C nit & Furnace for wiring info

As for slide out seals.
I wipe mine down with baby powder inside a sock. Been doing that since new in 2006. Seals are still looking good/ flexible / and in great shape
Slide mechanisms........wire brush and a spray on dry graphite lube is what I use on my rails (rack/drive gear style)
Depends on what you have.

Titanium Owners Group sounds like a good source of specific info.
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Old 04-08-2016, 02:49 PM   #4
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I hope you rinsed the bleach off WELL!! If not, you may have permanently left bleached out areas down the sides where them bleach contacted the finish.
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:39 PM   #5
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OK - gotta contradict Old Biscuit a bit -

- You should use a Dometic thermostat. A household version just wont work (I tried). I ended up just taking mine off, did a good cleaning and never looked back.

- Titanium rubber roofs are subject to black spots and no amount of work will fully clean them once they have gotten that way. I even got pretty drastic with mine and the spots lightened but never completely disappeared. Some have used the DICOR roof refinish, I just decided mine was that way.

Additionally - that HW heater (it was normally an XT 'POS') is a royal pain to access in that fairly low basement. You don't have to change the thermostat but you do need to be careful when using the hot water.

When in that basement, take some cable ties and straighten out the usual dangling wiring behind the wall.

Slides - If a slide decides to quit, the wiring connections are probably wire nutted and corroded. Go to Home Depot/Lowes/Ebay and get some split nuts, clean then remake the connection. You can often give them a 'boost' on the opposite side with a 5/8" wrench. I just used (and still do) 303 Protectant on the seals. Talcum/baby powder is probably as good and sure smells better.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:54 PM   #6
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OK - gotta contradict Old Biscuit a bit -

- You should use a Dometic thermostat. A household version just wont work (I tried). I ended up just taking mine off, did a good cleaning and never looked back.

Well..........they do work.
Hundreds have changed their old analog t-stats (Dometic/Duo-Therm and Coleman Mach) to Hunter/Honeywell Digital T-stats. Just need to know which wires are used and which ones are not connected (and WHY).

Instead of 5-6*F swings in temps/controls you end up with 1*F difference.

Simple/easy MOD.
And this new digital t-stats cost roughly $25.


Additionally - that HW heater (it was normally an XT 'POS') is a royal pain to access in that fairly low basement. You don't have to change the thermostat but you do need to be careful when using the hot water

If mixing valve is not working you have to access for replacement or removal----such is the nature of it.
Replacement means you will probably have to get at it again in the future.
Removal......done with issues from a clogged up mixing valve.
BUT highly recommend changing of t-stat to an Atwood Standard temp setting. The XT model is either a standard 6 gal or 10 gal tank. The higher temp t-stat (160*F) allows for hotter initial heating of the water and then 'mixing' it with cold AT the WH so water coming out at faucet is 130*F or less. That is how they 'stretch' a 6 gal into a 9 gal or 10 into a 16 gal equivalent. W/O mixing valve you have 160*F temp water right at the faucet-----instant scalding if cold water at faucet is NOT heavily used to temper the water. Hate to see kids/others with burnt hands.

T-stat is in outside compartment and is an easy change out. R/R old t-stat, install Atwood lower temp t-stat in 140*F Standard version or even a 120*F Optional version----heck they even have an adjustable version (110*F-150*F).
Just have to change 'pin connector' on Brown wire going to t-stat to a spade type connector for the Standard t-stats.

Again Simple/Easy Mod

Just 'clarifying' previously posted info
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:35 AM   #7
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Just 'clarifying' previously posted info
OK - if you are happy with that 'stat change, most if not all that tried, of us former or current Titanium owners couldn't make a Honeywell or in my case a LUX work. I would just like to change out that Dometic LCD in our current 5er - I only wish there was a 5* temp spread before it kicked on - heat or cool

As far as the HW heater, yes, you can easily access the controls from the front --- but the failed mixing valve which should be removed, is on the backside assembly and in some cases covered by the styrofoam insulation as mine was. You have limited space to work on this valve even after you climb in there as it is low and behind a bulkhead that needs to be removed.

"Nuff said
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:18 AM   #8
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Thank you so much. I tried asking and using the titanium site but can't seem to be able to use it. I posted questions with no response. I must have done something wrong. This site was much more user friendly for me and really appreciate the responses. I have taken notes and was given some great advice and direction. I really like the titanium and want to make it the best experience I can for the next phase of my life ... Retirement and RVing.
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Old 04-10-2016, 07:48 AM   #9
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I tried asking and using the titanium site but can't seem to be able to use it. I posted questions with no response. I must have done something wrong.
Really? By the same username?? I check the site daily and do not recall any unanswered posts of late. Usually at the very least someone welcomes you to the site even if they do not answer the question. I've had many reply to my questions, so maybe it was a TOG holiday when you asked??
http://www.titaniumrvowners.com
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:04 AM   #10
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Thank you so much. I tried asking and using the titanium site but can't seem to be able to use it. I posted questions with no response. I must have done something wrong. This site was much more user friendly for me and really appreciate the responses. I have taken notes and was given some great advice and direction. I really like the titanium and want to make it the best experience I can for the next phase of my life ... Retirement and RVing.
If you have registered and Jim Ostrander has sent you a welcome, then you should not have any problem. It is a well run site, and in my 7 years of belonging, including as an alumnus, and with about 1375 posts, never a problem. If you don't get an immediate answer, just remember that they are brand specific and occasionally it takes a bit of time.

Oh by the way, you had 13 responses to your intro on the TOG (Ramses as your name, I assume)
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:21 AM   #11
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Congrats on the trailer. My parents have the Bighorn version and I always thought it was a very practical design, it gives you a 38ft 5r on a 33ft wheelbase.
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:19 AM   #12
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Ok, thanks. I will give another try to the titanium site. i had written a similar request for information there and didn't get responses as I did here. I did receive an answer that asked me to register but said I didn't have to so when I didn't receive response to my questions I thought maybe it was because I didn't register. I then tried to research the manual sects and couldn't figure out how. I got frustrated and quit. Will go back today and give it another try. Thank you for all your input. Owning a fifth wheel is a big learning curve, but hopefully will provide many happy trails.
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