Community Forums

Tombs · 10-29-2008, 09:40 AM

My 5er is 4 years old and the brakes are acting up big time. When I apply the brakes they reaally start to pulsate/jerking badly. They have never been serviced. I know its on the trailer because no other trailer I tow does this. So, the question I guess would be, how do I check them and what do I check? Magnets ? Shoes? Dont know where to begin. I did look at the ground but its inside a cable that leads toward the front of the trailer. Sorry this is so wordy

Tombs · 10-29-2008, 09:40 AM

My 5er is 4 years old and the brakes are acting up big time. When I apply the brakes they reaally start to pulsate/jerking badly. They have never been serviced. I know its on the trailer because no other trailer I tow does this. So, the question I guess would be, how do I check them and what do I check? Magnets ? Shoes? Dont know where to begin. I did look at the ground but its inside a cable that leads toward the front of the trailer. Sorry this is so wordy

450Donn · 10-29-2008, 10:03 AM

Pull the wheels/drums off and start with a visual inspection. Look for glazed brakes first. Likely causes, grease has gotten on the brakes and now the brakes are useless. Drums warped, brake magnets not working properly, or simply brakes out of adjustment. Trailer brakes need to be inspected and adjusted properly at least every year.

ParTheCourse · 10-29-2008, 11:00 AM

I cannot help in correcting your problems but will share what I do to prevent them.

Several years ago I learned that annual New York state inspections require that only one wheel (and set brakes) be pulled.

Since then I have paid the inspector off......... I mean, an additional $20.00 / $25.00 to pull and take a close look at all wheels and break systems on all of our vehicles. Seems like a well spent few dollars.

Tombs · 10-29-2008, 02:36 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by 450Donn:
Pull the wheels/drums off and start with a visual inspection. Look for glazed brakes first. Likely causes, grease has gotten on the brakes and now the brakes are useless. Drums warped, brake magnets not working properly, or simply brakes out of adjustment. Trailer brakes need to be inspected and adjusted properly at least every year. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

OK, so is there a way to tell if the magnets are any good? Obviously the rest is up to the eye, except the warped drums. Going to check into it tomorrow.

RPFAN3460 · 10-29-2008, 05:17 PM

One way to check magnets is to hold a compass near the bottom of the wheel and have someone activate the brake controller. The compass should go nuts if the magnet is working. Another way is to jack up 1 wheel. Have someone step on the brake and turn the wheel. You should be able to hear the magnet hum as you spin the wheel. It also should stop spinning. Check each wheel like this.

Rich

allendp · 10-29-2008, 06:28 PM

If your trailer is 4 years old without ever having the brakes adjusted I am wondering if you have any braking at all. Each wheel should be off the ground and the shoes manually adjusted by using a brake tool turning the cam inside the drum. I turn the wheel and adjust the shoes til the wheel will not turn any more and then back it off until there is just slight friction when turning the wheel. You have to do this to each wheel at least once a year or 3000 miles. They are not self adjusting like on your vehicle. Don't forget to replace the rubber cap in the drum to keep the dust out. I am betting after you inspect and adjust them providing they are mechanically sound your problem will be solved.

FiverBob · 10-30-2008, 02:18 PM

One of the best checks for electrical operation of the brakes is how much current is being drawn under full braking? Each puck should draw between 2.5 and 3 amps. Intermittent problems could be electrical. The obvious has all ready been stated - - all brakes should be checked and readjusted once a year. The pucks need inspection - - they can wear thru where they ride on the disk and short out when applied. You could also be having a short in the wiring. A common short is where the wire goes thru the back plate of the wheel. Any of these intermittent shorts could cause very erratic brake operation.
Bob

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 10-30-2008, 03:11 PM

Both Dexter and Al-Ko have very nice downloadable pdf manuals for free.

Under "Service Information" select complete service manual.

http://www.dexteraxle.com/products___literature

And here, just click on "Owner's Manual".

http://www.al-kousa.com/

It is worth it to save both to your hard drive.

Ray,IN · 10-30-2008, 07:40 PM

Pulsing or intermittent brake action implies a short in the 12V brake circuit. After inspecting each brake set, follow the detailed test instructions in the Dexter Axle link Jeff provided.
Virtually all trailer manufacturers drill a small hole in each end of an axle and run the brake wire through the tube. Since the inside of these holes are not de-burred, the wire insulation gets cut, creating a direct short - when a bump causes the bare wire to contact the axle. I think it's best to run a new 10ga wire on the outside of the axle, secured by wire ties. Replace those cheap snap wire taps with crimp-type wire fasteners for a dependable connection.

Tombs · 10-31-2008, 03:56 AM

Thanks for all the input. Problem solved pretty much. Pulled the hubs, everything looked almost like new in there except a little brake dust. Called the local trailer dealer and asked him how thick a new brake pad was and mine are just what he said a new would be. Wow, big surprise to me. So I put it all back together and started to adjust the brake cam manually as you guys said. Wheels off the ground of course. I could not believe I had to turn the things about a dozen turns just to get friction on the drums. Everything seems to work OK now with some pretty smooth stopping now. The drums did get a little warm but, I think they will wear in. As I reflect back at the situation, I wonder if they had ever really been adjusted right from the get go.A big thanks to all.

allendp · 10-31-2008, 05:05 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tombs:
Thanks for all the input. Problem solved pretty much. Pulled the hubs, everything looked almost like new in there except a little brake dust. Called the local trailer dealer and asked him how thick a new brake pad was and mine are just what he said a new would be. Wow, big surprise to me. So I put it all back together and started to adjust the brake cam manually as you guys said. Wheels off the ground of course. I could not believe I had to turn the things about a dozen turns just to get friction on the drums. Everything seems to work OK now with some pretty smooth stopping now. The drums did get a little warm but, I think they will wear in. As I reflect back at the situation, I wonder if they had ever really been adjusted right from the get go.A big thanks to all. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Glad you solved your problem and they are working properly now.

Happy Camping.

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 10-31-2008, 10:19 PM

Mis-adjusted brakes will cause problems. I'm glad your problem was something simple.

I'm a bit concerned about the drums being hot, though. If you stop w/o using the brakes (some place where it is safe to do so) the drums should be pretty cool.

I usually set the adjustment by turning the star wheel out until the tire/wheel is difficult to turn by hand (centers the shoes). Then back the adjuster off until the tire rotates freely, plus a good 4 or 5 bites with the adjuster tool (about 3/4 of a rotation of the star).

Tombs · 11-01-2008, 02:21 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jeff_in_The_Dalles:
Mis-adjusted brakes will cause problems. I'm glad your problem was something simple.

I'm a bit concerned about the drums being hot, though. If you stop w/o using the brakes (some place where it is safe to do so) the drums should be pretty cool.

I usually set the adjustment by turning the star wheel out until the tire/wheel is difficult to turn by hand (centers the shoes). Then back the adjuster off until the tire rotates freely, plus a good 4 or 5 bites with the adjuster tool (about 3/4 of a rotation of the star). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That is pretty much how I had adjusted them. Tightend the up untill I had drag then backed them off till there was very little drag. The drums were pretty warm but I didnt consider them HOT. I mean, you could touch them and not get burned. But I will check that soon without the trailer brakes hooked up to see if they still get hot. I honestley dont think they will. I think its the adjustment on the brakes. Maybe a touch to tight.