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07-15-2018, 04:14 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 395
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Underslide damage
So my fifth wheel is in the shop for the last warranty trip. One of the issues is damage to the underside of the slide outs. They are Lippert hydraulic slides. The underside edges on each side shows damage (plywood chipped away). Not OMG! ITS FALLING APART! kind of damage but a “this needs to get fixed before it gets worse”. I sprayed truck bed coating over the damage then covered damaged area with Gorilla tApe then 3 coats of truck bed coating. Truck bed coating was the aerosol Rust-Oleum professional grade in a can. Not very thick. I applied that stuff, pulled in the slides a couple days later and took it in to the shop with photos of damage covered.
Has anyone had this kind of damage to the underside of their slides? What was the solution? Like I said, mine is in the shop under warranty for this and other issues.
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07-15-2018, 04:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 117
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Can't speak for the damage, but I'd guess the dealership is going to want to bill you to remove your "repair" to get to the actual problem.
__________________
2017 Outback 330RL (stationary full timers)
2006 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
Dust Junkies Racing, 3 time Baja 1000 Class Champions
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07-15-2018, 05:12 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob91yj
Can't speak for the damage, but I'd guess the dealership is going to want to bill you to remove your "repair" to get to the actual problem.
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Haha, No. I repaired the damage caused by the problem. They can fix the problem. Another guy with the same model 5vr I have had the same issue (along with many, many more). He is in a lawsuit. I just want my stuff fixed and move on with my life.
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07-15-2018, 07:22 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Evergreen Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Bonaparte, Iowa
Posts: 592
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I am guessing the slide is not sliding on the support rollers. Mine was picking up particles on the rollers as there was no coating or covering on the pressed wood. I did the same using Rustoleum bed liner. This also sealed the wood so now no moisture can penetrate. Made the rollers do the job they were intended. No problems.
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07-16-2018, 06:52 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,479
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Cedar Creek install "slide pans" to fix the issue on them - basically a rigid plastic L shaped piece that covers the edges and tucks into the seam on the side of the slide. Looks like they are standard on the new ones, but the ones I had installed at Amish Family RV look like they are sturdier and installed much better.
__________________
2001 Volvo VNL660
2018 DRV Fullhouse JX450
2022 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
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07-17-2018, 10:50 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aknavy
Cedar Creek install "slide pans" to fix the issue on them - basically a rigid plastic L shaped piece that covers the edges and tucks into the seam on the side of the slide. Looks like they are standard on the new ones, but the ones I had installed at Amish Family RV look like they are sturdier and installed much better.
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Thanks for the info. I’m glad it’s not just from the manufacturer of my rig and that there is a “known” remedy.
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07-23-2018, 04:28 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Nine Mile Falls WA / Arizona City AZ
Posts: 1,066
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so on the floor of the RV is a lip that the slide runs on... this lip is made from UHMW material. (ultra high molecular weight) plastic.. much like the white cutting board used in a kitchen... its held to the floor of the RV with screws and its common for one of the screws to either break or back out... thus ripping the fabric on the bottom of the slide and allowing water to penetrate the wood...
The correct repair is to pull the slide out... remove the trim that holds the fabric on the underside of the plywood... staples under the trip and a simple adhesive on the plywood.... and replace it after any wood repair is done... and finally put the slide back in the RV... you need to understand that I'd bet any amount of money you can't find a shop who has really ever done this repair...
I guessed at least 35 hours to pull, repair and re-install the slide... maybe close to $4000.... all for a broken/loose screw...
As the slide runs against this UHMW lip seal... as your undercoated slide runs across this... it will scrape off your tape and the undercoating you've applied.. and will make one hell of a mess on your floor...
I found that I had room for the slide to go up... 3/8" so I covered the bottom of my slide with the UHMW material... its drilled so the screws that hold it to the bottom of the slide are recessed... the stuff is so slick it can't be glued.. BTW, use a sealer around the screws as you screw them into place to prevent water penetration..
Where the old fabric was damaged I used some fiberglass resin (no fiberglass cloth) to coat the exposed wood and allowed the resin to soak into the plywood and fill the pours to seal it... where the fabric was shredded I also used the same resin to seal the fabric to the wood.. since your working on the underside... I applied the resin... used some wax paper to cover the area that was wet... and used a piece of plywood with a jack to press the fabric into the wood until the resin hardened... sanded down the lumps afterwords...
I put a steep bevel where it starts to run against the UHMW lower lip seal... it was about $350 worth of material from an industrial supplier.. my slide had room to go up that 3/8" and not interfere with the TOP SEAL...
I did find that the hydraulic motor works LESS pushing the slide in and out this way....
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Retired Business Owner, Re-manufacturing HD Clutches, Brake Shoes, Air Compressors, Sales & Installation of PacBrake and other Industrial Friction
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07-23-2018, 09:40 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,500
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I had a problem and the screw in the slide pan was gouging the underside.
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07-24-2018, 03:03 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Evergreen Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Bonaparte, Iowa
Posts: 592
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I have never had a trailer that just uses slick poly for slide supports. Mine have always had support rollers which I think is far better than slick poly just screwed down to the floor.
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