Community Forums

rarebear.nm · 01-04-2018, 09:03 AM

This is proving to be a interesting and informative thread. I had long forgotten about the Hall Effect and how DC clamp amp meters worked. Thanks for the point to Fluke's review of the subject.

Is there any simple way to determine the type of current limiting present in a given LED bulb? One could try to dig it out of the product's web site, but I've not found that info in the typical product write and for good reason, few people would understand or care.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 01-04-2018, 09:58 AM

I have bought some LEDs from Marinebeam; I don't have any other connection to them.

What You Need To Know Before Buying LED Cluster Lighting for Your Yacht
and
FAQs

I have a technical background, but have not read these closely enough to know if what they say is correct and balanced (that is, not biased towards selling you their stuff).

Marinebeam products are expensive. I found them well-made and the customer service excellent when I had an premature failure. It could be a case of you get what you pay for- or not.

nothermark · 01-05-2018, 10:35 AM

I would say it's a nice article.

Off hand if the bulb is dimmable it uses a series resistor. If you hold an AM radio up close and get a lot of noise it's a switching supply.

Just for grins - if you read the article - I think I have a buck/boost switcher in some high output LED drop in cartridges for my maglite D cell flashlights. The voltage range is lower to higher than the batteries in them. That system is not needed on a 12 V system in an RV but the flashlights are very handy! ;-)

rarebear.nm · 01-05-2018, 10:58 AM

Ok notehrmark, Got a question after having read the above and related material. I've used DC-DC for some setup applications before, so can one place a buck/boost regulator on the RV's 12 volt system to stabilize the voltage at 12v? Or would this device cost as much as the RV? I believe versions of the circuit are used in large power distribution grids.

nothermark · 01-06-2018, 06:51 AM

In theory the 12 VDC could be stabilized. The power would need to be split differently with the battery and converter output feeding the regulator. The regulator would feed everything else. That way all the loads would see 12 VDC as the battery voltage changed as it was charged or run as the source. The price might not be too bad as in less than $100. Probably way less from a little poking around. DC-DC power supplies have gotten quite common and quite low cost. Efficiency should be pretty good. Somebody just needs to order enough to get somebody to make the box. That or roll your own.