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Old 08-03-2019, 09:56 PM   #57
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We do not boondock or dry-camp whatsoever.



We operate a Fisher-Paykel 17.5 CuFt Residential Reefer, powered by a Magnum CSW2012-X Pure Sine Wave Inverter from 2 each Centennial DP24MFS RV/Marine batteries (which are admittedly low capacity with only 60A@20 hour)


We start with the reefer chilled on shore power, and batteries fully charged.


Upon the end of a normal 8-10 hour drive, and before resuming shore power, we are invariably at no lower than 12.7v on the batteries.


The F&P performs in a seamless fashion, fading into the background like an appliance does at home.



We changed out of a brand new Norcold 12 CuFt double door unit after one season.


Given the choice of either, we would never go back to the absorption model.
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Old 08-04-2019, 12:25 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Yes, 2 amps at 120 volts.

That's 20 amps at 12 volts.
Plus losses in the inverter... might add another 10%....

The normal sized +12 volt wire (commonly called the charge line) in the 7-pin connector is only good for about 3, maybe 4 amps. And there will be a measurable voltage drop in that wire at the 3-4 amps. Maybe your tow vehicle is wired differently (with a larger wire size). If not this situation is going to need additional 12volt wiring to feed the 5er... Or add some solar panels and a charge controller.
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Old 08-04-2019, 06:46 PM   #59
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"I'm looking at a good Residential Refrigerator to replace the 1210 some day, and this week with DFW being forecast above 100, my BIG question: Will an RR keep the fridge temp below 40 with a surrounding (inside the RV) temp above 100? (I have a cheapo fridge in my garage and it tries but does not quite make it!)"

Let me ask again if most or any RR (at least 15 CU FT) in an RV at 100 plus degrees, for a good 8-hour towing day, will maintain less than 40 in the fridge? Anyone check their inverter amps readout to note if the RR was drawing the full 6 or 7 amps continuously as the temps climb to 100?

Any experience out there, or does most everyone in their towable RVs avoid 100 plus degree areas when towing? The RR in my garage has plenty of extra capacity, but not enough insulation! I can assume that after towing in 100 degrees heat during the day, and boondocking for the night when the low is 80, that the RR will run full open at 6 or 7 amps continuously, and there goes my house batteries' charges and I'll have to run the generator at 3:00 AM.

Any experience out there?
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Old 08-04-2019, 06:57 PM   #60
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I hear you Gray01, but I'm curious also - if you did want to boondock, I think you would be down to 10.5 VDC in a hurry - depending on how long the RR runs continuously. I would bet you have some cool days when towing, and the RR does not draw 6-7 amps continuously? How many amps does the RR draw when running/cooling? How many when not cooling? Don't forget the 10-15 percent inverter inefficiency. Have you checked the inverter for how many amps it was drawing with the tow vehicle not charging the batteries?
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Old 08-04-2019, 07:16 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by cletesingler View Post
I hear you Gray01, but I'm curious also - if you did want to boondock, I think you would be down to 10.5 VDC in a hurry - depending on how long the RR runs continuously. I would bet you have some cool days when towing, and the RR does not draw 6-7 amps continuously? How many amps does the RR draw when running/cooling? How many when not cooling? Don't forget the 10-15 percent inverter inefficiency. Have you checked the inverter for how many amps it was drawing with the tow vehicle not charging the batteries?



There are no intentional plans to boondock. We have zero affinity for that type of rv'ing.


I have no idea what it draws, but I can point you to this discussion: Residential refrigerator regrets??


We only travel during summer, so "cool" days would always be between 75f-100f.
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Old 08-04-2019, 07:22 PM   #62
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Interesting that you should ask that. Energy Star ratings are done at 90 degrees, so that is no problem. I went back and checked the specs on my Frigidaire Gallery 3 door. This is what they say:
Do Not install the refrigerator where the
temperature will drop below 55F (13C) or
rise above 110F (43C). The compressor
will not be able to maintain proper
temperatures inside the refrigerator.


So, 100 should be fine...
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:10 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cletesingler View Post
Will an RR keep the fridge temp below 40 with a surrounding (inside the RV) temp above 100? (I have a cheapo fridge in my garage and it tries but does not quite make it!)"

Let me ask again if most or any RR (at least 15 CU FT) in an RV at 100 plus degrees, for a good 8-hour towing day, will maintain less than 40 in the fridge? Anyone check their inverter amps readout to note if the RR was drawing the full 6 or 7 amps continuously as the temps climb to 100?



Any experience out there?



As I previously mentioned, we only RV during the warmer part of the year. We have seen many 100+ f days/weeks.


We keep the reefer at 34f, and the freezer at -4f. I have not performed an instrument-based testing; all we have is our experience. The reefer stays at set temps, the batteries finish up the 8-10 hour driving day anywhere from 12.4v to 12.7 volts, and mostly the 12.7 number. How long it runs, what the inverter draws...I have no idea. I just know that it works seamlessly. The ice cream is hard, the beer is frosty, and the batteries are healthy.
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Old 08-05-2019, 06:55 PM   #64
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Interesting stuff, and discovered that energy star testing has different ambient temps to consider: "The climate control chamber is hooked up to a dedicated HVAC unit and humidity control system that work together to keep things locked in right where we want them: 76 degrees F, with the relative humidity at 30 percent." But, the spec does mention 90 degF at 3 feet above the floor and within 10 inches of the unit, I guess for compressor heat. I would assume that if the inside temp of the RV starts at 100, then with compressor heat, road heat, etc the RR may not keep within the magic 39 degF. Would we not all love to have a RR designed for an RV!
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:58 PM   #65
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I do know that Energy star ratings are done at 90 degrees ambient. 100 isn't much more. Modern inverter driven compressors seem to have a lot of surplus capability. I would bet that 100 degrees is quite achievable. A/C units commonly work in 100 degree or higher ambient temperatures.
Been there done that. No problem at 38 Celsius.
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Old 08-05-2019, 10:37 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by cletesingler View Post
I would assume that if the inside temp of the RV starts at 100, then with compressor heat, road heat, etc the RR may not keep within the magic 39 degF.
I will let you know. I will be starting up from 105f+ interior RV temps in 3 days.

Since I have done this numerous times, with non-problematic cool-down time and operation, I will be surprised if this will be any different.

I have posted regarding our actual experience with a modern inverter style residential reefer in our RV. It cools to set temps (34f in the reefer section, -4f in the freezer) and holds them for our entire 8-10 hour drive period without significantly depleting the batteries.

Here is a more salient question: What has your actual experience been with a modern inverter style residential refrigerator in an RV?
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:53 PM   #67
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Hey there Gray01, good discussion. I like your numbers and am envious. As mentioned, I'm considering going from my present Norcold 2010IM electric/propane to an RR, and from your good news, I have more reasons for the boss. But, the 2010 is running near-perfect except when it's 100 degF or more, like today at DFW when it feels like 110. I've been running the 2010 for a couple days in the driveway and today is typical with the fridge at 42, freezer at 15 all on 120VAC. It may start with the RV at maybe 85 in the AM and the fridge at 38, but soon gets above the magic 40. A day before departing on our BIG trip to Eugene OR, I'll open the slide and run the generator and the A/C to get RV to 85 and the fridge to hopefully 35, then load up in the morning of the trip. Almost wish my 2010 would fail so I could use my extended warranty, but we will pray for below-100 temps on the way to Eugene - whoops, I guess we'll have to come back to these plus 100 deg days in a couple weeks........
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Old 08-06-2019, 08:47 PM   #68
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Almost wish my 2010 would fail



As long as you are not a dry camping boondocker the costs usually end up less than replacing an absorption model. Not using pole power or generator would require a good $ize $olar array and battery bank.


The reefers themselves cost much less than the absorption models. The inverter is not too bad but I prefer pure sine wive versus MSW, which still is usually less that $750.
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Old 08-07-2019, 05:11 PM   #69
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As long as you are not a dry camping boondocker the costs usually end up less than replacing an absorption model. Not using pole power or generator would require a good $ize $olar array and battery bank.
Just to be clear, a RR does not preclude dry camping. We do it often, but you are correct that a solar array would help a lot. I use two 100 watt portable panels so I can park in the shade, but move the panels out in the sun. I also carry (in addition to the 7kW gen set onboard) a Honda eU2000i portable generator that really helps the 4 6volt batteries if needed. Much quieter and less thirsty. The Samsung stays spot on at 38 fridge and -2 freezer, even when passing through 120* Needles. One must also be very 12volt conscious when dry camping to conserve the batteries, obviously. So, in summary, there are extra costs involved to make the transition, but not insurmountable.
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:50 PM   #70
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A few years ago we could go dry camping for a week and not hear a generator the whole time.

Sadly on all our trips this year generator noise started at 7:00am and didn't stop until 9:00pm. On 2 nights generators ran all night.

I'm hoping we see the day when there are areas that only allow solar powered dry camping.
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