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Old 08-13-2019, 06:15 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by masterdrago View Post
Still, 500 watts for 15 minutes every 7 hours seems like a hugely excessive amount of defrost.
Well, took another look at the spec and it is defrost every 6 to 96 hours of compressor time. I ran the test in relatively high humidity so the cycle ran every 7 hours or so. 500 watt heater and max defrost cycle is 26 minutes so the cut out thermistor on the evaporator shortened it some in my unit under those conditions.

Seems to be functioning normally and to spec.
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:06 PM   #100
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I am not familiar with the Solitude but does it automatically switch between the shore and inverter power? Mine has a transfer switch that changes to inverter when I unplug from shore power and vice versa. I assume he has checked to be sure it is working when not on shore power.

We have traveled all day long without any issues with our Samsung fridge. We have 2 6 volt batteries that do the work. It draws very little power, especially it you don't open it up much. We don't boondock so no comments there. I have been down the Norcold road and never again.
Jim,
I'm not familiar with a transfer switch that automatically switches from inverter to shore power for the residential refrigerator or that PI installed them in EXCEL trailers. As you can see in the photo below, my 2013 GKE has a 110 VAC plug for use when on shore power and an inverter for when not on shore power.

When on shore power, I plug into the 110 VAC. When on batteries, I plug into the inverter and turn on inverter. Fortunately, I have not failed to switch the fridge power source when switching from shore power to inverter or back to shore power.

I'm just guessing, but maybe you are plugged into the inverter all the time. When on shore power, the converter charges the batteries and the inverter provides 110 VAC from the batteries. When not on shore power, the inverter still provides 110 VAC from the batteries. This would seem like there is some switching going on but you are actually on the inverter all the time.

If this is not the case and you have some kind of switch, please enlighten me. I am so paranoid that I will forget to switch power source and not realize it until the frozen foods are defrosted.

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Old 08-13-2019, 02:44 PM   #101
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...If this is not the case and you have some kind of switch, please enlighten me. I am so paranoid that I will forget to switch power source and not realize it until the frozen foods are defrosted.

Attachment 256779
You need an automatic transfer switch. You can get a Xantrex 15 amp switch, a male 15 amp plug and a female 15 amp receptacle. Wire the plug and receptacle to the two free ends of the switch, plug everything in, leave the inverter on and it will just switch automatically. Your inverter will idle when shore power is present and your reefer will always be powered. No more worrying about if you switched it...ever.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:53 PM   #102
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I have a 2019 KZ Durango Gold 380FLF with 18 cu ft Norcold refer. Is it generally possible to get the old unit out of 30” door? I so wish I had opted for a resi unit. We do next to 0 time w/o at least electric hookup and 90% at full hook up sites. I hate worrying about being off level for an hour in Walmart parking lot, worrying about fire, dealing with melty ice cream. I see the unit at Amazon is $5K and would have used that money for something else. Regards Ron

When we replaced our OEM Norcold the RV custom shop removed a window and then used a forklift and platform to take the Norcold out and put the Residential in.


They said that is the normative industry practice for reefer swap-outs.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:00 PM   #103
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Jim,
I'm not familiar with a transfer switch that automatically switches from inverter to shore power



Our inverter has an integrated transfer switch and A/C pass-through so that when shore power is available it automatically prioritizes that, and then switches to inverted power when shore power is removed.


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Old 08-14-2019, 12:56 AM   #104
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Jim,
I'm not familiar with a transfer switch that automatically switches from inverter to shore power for the residential refrigerator.

If this is not the case and you have some kind of switch, please enlighten me. I am so paranoid that I will forget to switch power source and not realize it until the frozen foods are defrosted.
Thanks everyone, it never crossed my mind that an inverter transfer switch existed. Looks like another project.

I was planning to get a bigger inverter anyway so I could run 110 VAC to the kitchen so I could make a cup of coffee or burn some toast when not on shore power or the generator.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:40 AM   #105
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If that's the case, you can shop for an inverter with the transfer switch built in.

PS: I make coffee with a 1000 watt inverter. My portable Kerig draws 800 watts.
We don't carry a roster but you can check the watts of it. Less then 1000 and it will work.

Here is another add on ATS. Its hard wired and gets rid of the plugs.
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Originally Posted by CARLnJANIS View Post
Thanks everyone, it never crossed my mind that an inverter transfer switch existed. Looks like another project.

I was planning to get a bigger inverter anyway so I could run 110 VAC to the kitchen so I could make a cup of coffee or burn some toast when not on shore power or the generator.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:28 AM   #106
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If you are shopping for an inverter already, get one that has an internal a/c switch and is large enough to power the fridg and a coffee maker. Wire it to the fridg and a receptacle in the kitchen.
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