Water leaking from hot water heater

[marciegirl]

We have a 2005 24' Zepplin II by keystone we just bought a couple of months ago. We have been out in it 4 times and just this weekend fired up the hot water heater. We had water leaking out from around the entry door and appears to be coming from the hot water heater. Has anyone else had this problem and what fixed the issue?
Thanks,

Marcie

[marciegirl]

We have a 2005 24' Zepplin II by keystone we just bought a couple of months ago. We have been out in it 4 times and just this weekend fired up the hot water heater. We had water leaking out from around the entry door and appears to be coming from the hot water heater. Has anyone else had this problem and what fixed the issue?
Thanks,

Marcie

[woodburner]

Check the pressure relief valve, check for loose fittings, make sure the anode rod is securely tightened in the HW tank.
That's where I'd look first.

[RedGuy]

It's leaking from the outside access panel? Could simply be a drain valve not seating completely if the PO installed one. Do you know weather it's an Atwood or Suburban?

[Jim Beck]

Water expands with heat and may leak a bit but stop after it's up to temp.
That has been my experience with 2 trailers.

[marciegirl]

I do believe it to be a Atwood. It leaks enough to fill a pitcher full in about an hour.

[RedGuy]

That's alot! Sounds like you have something loose somewhere. If I remeber right there's only three things on that side of the water heater, the drain plug, gas temp controler, and relief valve. You could have a bad relife valve, or any of those three could be loose causing a leak. I would start at the drain plug though since those are the most often removed part.

[Workshop]

Check to see if the water/leak is coming from the pressure relief valve. Common problem.

Information from Attwods manual:

It is not uncommon for the pressure-temperature relief valve to weep as the water reaches its maximum temperature setting. This does not mean that the valve is defective; it may indicate the loss of the air gap in the tank.
Most tanks are designed with an internal air gap at the top of the tank to reduce dripping. It may be necessary to replenish the air from time to time.

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

[FiverBob]

Water heaters need an air space in the top of them. Normal usage disapates this air pocket as it absorbs into the water. This space allows for expansion, especially when run on gas. If you have a Suburban and check your manual, it talks about replacing that air space. My hot water line under my kitchen sink will leak if I lose my air pocket.

A really quick and easy way to replace this air space is as follows:
1) Hook up your water hose to the supply and the rig making sure the hose has no water in it.
2) Turn on the water supply
3) Go inside the rig, turn on the kitchen faucet to hot water only.
4) Run this faucet until it quits spitting air.

You have taken the air from the hose and directed it into the water heater, then evacuated the extra air. I do this about every two or three weeks.

Bob

[marciegirl]

Thank you FiverBob my husband bought a new Pressure Relief Valve today and is going to install it now and will follow your instructions to reestablish the air gap in the hot water heater.

Thank You,
Marcie and Joey

[Frank P. Martin]

You won't have to follow those instructions at all if your husband replaces the pressure relief valve as enough air will enter the tank when he removes the old relief valve. Although, I'd recommend draining the HWT first so you don't get a bath when you remove the relief valve. Also, make sure the switch is turned off (electric too if your tank is both gas/electric)and the tank has been allowed to cool.