Water pump on/off switch

[paty]

I keep telling myself "there are no stupid questions'....I'm flushing my water heater tank and instructions say turn off water pump. I have a Triplex Diaphragm 3436/3526/3626 Automatic Water System Pump.(FloJet) Any paperwork I have on it, indicates no location for such a switch.
Anyone knowledgeable with this pump and where the switch might be?

Initially any online instructions on how to flush were very simple but as I investigate further I'm told more and more things to do (turn off, turn on etc) I don't (obviously) want to damage any part of the water system, from pump to heater.....
Flush is going to take place in a very short time today...so any input is appreciated.

[TDiGuy]

Hi,
My pump switch is with my monitor system... where it shows your black/grey/water levels... in my beaver it is located above the drivers seat.... some rvs have them
some where in the kitchen....
good luck...
jeff

[TDiGuy]

in my basement I have a valve with a hose attached... I flip the valve and put the hose in a gallon jug of rv antifreeze... turn on the pump.
open the faucets one at a time till the pink antifreeze comes out well.... It takes about 1 gallon... I also have a heater bypass valve and pull the plug on the heater... also I have a washer/dryer which is a little complicated... do you have a w/d?

[TDiGuy]

what kind of rv do you have?... if it has a battery kill switch you can flip it off and it will cut power to the pump... I flipped the battey kill switch by accident once
and it took a while to figure out why there was no water in the toilet when I flushed...

[wingnut60]

Are you saying your water pump is always on, since you can't find a switch? What about when you are hooked up to power--is the water pump on at the same time?
Hope you got your project done.
Joe

[paty]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingnut60 Are you saying your water pump is always on, since you can't find a switch? What about when you are hooked up to power--is the water pump on at the same time? Hope you got your project done. Joe

Sigh...and . I recently had to take over the maintenance of the RV. (first time around an RV and now living in it full time.)

Yep two switches at the bottom of the monitor panel. One for pump and the other for heater. Both were in the 'off' position. (when on, they glow red). Several coats and scarves were covering the panel and light switches.

So another stupid question, since what pages of a manual I have show no picture of the monitor panel, they should both be 'off' when connected to shore power? This is the state they have been in, unless when throwing off circuit breaker/s to flush the water heater they do an auto switch off?

Sorry, I'm overwhelmed with trying to learn all the in's and out's of living in an RV.

I feel like a major doh at this point.

[paty]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TDiGuy what kind of rv do you have?... if it has a battery kill switch you can flip it off and it will cut power to the pump... I flipped the battey kill switch by accident once and it took a while to figure out why there was no water in the toilet when I flushed...

'07 Cougar 310SRX 35'. Know of no battery kill switch.

[Yaj]

Hi Paty! Don't worry you'll get the hang of it sooner or later! A good way to learn is come around here and read a lot, ask questions always, and someone will help you out! About the water heater and pump... Always have the water heater turned off, gas and electric, if it is empty or you're going to empty it, or you could/will burn out the electric element or gas heat exchanger. On our rig the gas control switch is on the monitor panel and the 120V electric switch is on the wall right next to the monitor panel, again make sure both are off if emptying heater. Some rigs don't have a 120V option on their water heater so that may not apply, but you want to be sure of what you have. A last step of winterizing ours is to un-plug the electric option and I go out side and disconnect the control wires for the gas side so it doesn't get turned on by mistake over the winter. Again don't hesitate to ask questions as there are many learned people here willing to pass info along! Good Luck!

[wingnut60]

Generally, you don't want the water pump on if connected to a water supply by hose. So: water pump switch 'off' if you are in a campground/at home with water supplied by hose; water pump switch 'on' when using water from the onboard fresh water tank that has to be filled by use of a water hose placed into a water tank filler connection. Also off while traveling.
Water heater: probably 2 ways to heat the water--electricity and propane. First, for propane, there are 2 ways to start the propane side depending on the type you have: DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) that you turn on at the control panel and it will start by itself; second, older style that requires you to light outside by pushing in on a red button at the gas control valve. Hopefully, you have the DSI model.
For electricity, there will be a switch at the control panel for this--if you are plugged in to power, it will begin heating when you switch it on. Leave it on all the time you are plugged in, unless you have elec supply problems and trip breakers if it is on and you want to use microwave, etc.
For either type heat, be sure the water heater is full of water before trying to heat it.
You mentioned you were trying to flush the water heater--why? Not normally needed unless it has been a sitting a long time with water in it, or water used has been hard. I just drain my heater each winter and have never needed to flush it.
Keep the questions coming, we will all try to help.
Joe

[paty]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yaj Hi Paty! Don't worry you'll get the hang of it sooner or later! A good way to learn is come around here and read a lot, ask questions always, and someone will help you out! About the water heater and pump... Always have the water heater turned off, gas and electric, if it is empty or you're going to empty it, or you could/will burn out the electric element or gas heat exchanger. On our rig the gas control switch is on the monitor panel and the 120V electric switch is on the wall right next to the monitor panel, again make sure both are off if emptying heater. Some rigs don't have a 120V option on their water heater so that may not apply, but you want to be sure of what you have. A last step of winterizing ours is to un-plug the electric option and I go out side and disconnect the control wires for the gas side so it doesn't get turned on by mistake over the winter. Again don't hesitate to ask questions as there are many learned people here willing to pass info along! Good Luck!

Thanks for being so kind and patient. I'm confused (still) tho' about the pump and heater switches on the monitor panel. I've been on shore power and both switches have been in the 'off' position since taking up residency. Since finding them I switched them 'on' and they lit up (new to me haha). So no need to be 'on' when hooked up to shore power?
Yes, realize the gas and electric need to be off when flushing tank (although until you mentioned it I didn't know about the gas heat exchanger)..and that little task went fairly well so next time I won't be in such a panic over doing it. Now to add\ purchase a socket wrench and rachet handle to my arsenal of RV 'need to have' articles/tools.

[paty]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingnut60 Generally, you don't want the water pump on if connected to a water supply by hose. So: water pump switch 'off' if you are in a campground/at home with water supplied by hose; water pump switch 'on' when using water from the onboard fresh water tank that has to be filled by use of a water hose placed into a water tank filler connection. Also off while traveling. Water heater: probably 2 ways to heat the water--electricity and propane. First, for propane, there are 2 ways to start the propane side depending on the type you have: DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) that you turn on at the control panel and it will start by itself; second, older style that requires you to light outside by pushing in on a red button at the gas control valve. Hopefully, you have the DSI model. For electricity, there will be a switch at the control panel for this--if you are plugged in to power, it will begin heating when you switch it on. Leave it on all the time you are plugged in, unless you have elec supply problems and trip breakers if it is on and you want to use microwave, etc. For either type heat, be sure the water heater is full of water before trying to heat it. You mentioned you were trying to flush the water heater--why? Not normally needed unless it has been a sitting a long time with water in it, or water used has been hard. I just drain my heater each winter and have never needed to flush it. Keep the questions coming, we will all try to help. Joe

This web site comes with such great contributed info. that I save it to Word Pad for future reference. Thanks All!
"For electricity, there will be a switch at the control panel for this--if you are plugged in to power..."
No switch I'm aware of (here we go again!) Just electric power cord plugged into 30amp. (tho there is a switch out where the 30amp plug in was installed. I'm Stationary RV'ing on a horse ranch at this time). All RVs on electricity have an inside switch or does my set-up make sense?
Flushing tank:
Water heater has been used since beginning of '08 and is a Suburban with a self-sacrificing anode to provide Cathode protection of the glass lined tank.

Most suggest flushing at least once a year and to change the anode if severly corroded. (some of the pictures I've seen online of the amount of sediment, etc obtained with a flush... and corrison of the anode down to a shadow of it's former self.)
Anode needed changing and I did find some mineral build up (chunks) that were either washed out when draining the tank or when I used the tank 'Wand' to ensure all sediment was flushed out of the tank. (wand attaches to water hose and enables one to get wand inside the tank..handy little tool) Ensures longer life of the tank. I know Atwoods only have a nylon plug, thus I wonder at damage that could be done since there is no anode to draw corroding minerals or dirt etc. Especially important if one is full timing.

[wingnut60]

You're doing fine--my water heater does not have an anode, and so far in 7 years, no buildup in the heater. Sounds like you really understand maintainance well.
As to the electric operation of the water heater--I have yet to see one that did not have an on/off switch somewhere, and some of them have 2: one in the control panel, and one at the rear of the heater itself. Question--you have hot water when plugged into 30amp without flipping any switches? If so, strange to me. How about the 110volt circuit breaker panel--does it have a breaker labeled water heater?
Joe

[TDiGuy]

my water heater has a switch and reset button in the kitchen near the sink...
to keep from turning it on here there is another switch outside in the compartment
of the waterheater... I replaced my anode rod and had scale in the heater too..
we all have to learn... my first rv did not have a bypass for the water heater...
I used 7 gallons of antifreeze to winterize... 6 for the tank and a gallon in the lines.
The next year i put in a bypass and it only took a gallon..
what kind of rv do you have?

[Dunner]

My Breeze has two water pump switches. One on the control panel and the other not 4 feet away, next to the bathroom sink light switch. Duh! How bout one by the kitchen sink?