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Old 12-23-2018, 08:23 AM   #1
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Weight & Balance / Tire Temps / Distance between wheels

So I was reading about the Escapees Smart Weight thing (link at bottom*)... and got to thinking that the driver's side of my Brookstone 395RL has all the appliances (as well as the (heavier) washing machine) vs. the passenger's side has some light furniture and the (lighter) dryer.

I made a mental note to drive down and get the wheels weighed independently.

Then I installed my TST TPMS and noticed that the driver's side tires get at least 10% hotter while towing.

Then I bought some Fastway wheel chocks and when I installed them I noticed that the space between the tires on the passenger's side is WIDER than the space between the tires on the driver's side.

Now, I should also say that the storage site is not completely level... it's one inch higher on the driver's side.

But I started googling and noticed that the space between the tires will change based on load and level.

Studying diagrams, it appears that the only way the tires can move under load would be closer together. Am I correct that the higher the load on one side the closer the tires move towards each other?

And finally, if the driver's side will always weigh more, and therefore the tires will always be closer than the passenger's side... will the resulting difference chew up the tires on the passenger's side?

* https://www.escapees.com/education/smartweigh/
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Old 12-23-2018, 08:31 AM   #2
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WOW!
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Old 12-23-2018, 09:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpyman View Post
WOW!
LOL! Hey man! I don't mess around.
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Old 12-23-2018, 01:20 PM   #4
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First, I would not rely on one measurement at the storage yard. Besides the uneven pavement issue, you may have had to turn into your parking spot and that turning could put stress on the wheels. I would load the trailer on your truck, go to where there is flat ground and take measurement after driving straight ahead.
About seven years ago, I took a trip from Florida to Alaska and back pulling our 29' fw. After traveling about 2000 miles on the trip, I noticed some uneven tire wear on both rear tires, but more so on the driver side. I got the rear tires replaced in Montana and continued on the trip. I kept the unmounted better tire from the right rear and threw it in the truck bed.
A couple thousand miles later, I rotated the tires myself at a campground, after I noticed the rear tires wearing. Before leaving Alaska, I had the unmounted tire put on the left rear, since it looked better than the one that was on the trailer. Had a blowout on that tire on the Alaska Highway and I bought two more tires in Whitehorse. I rotated the tires about every 1500 miles after that. I had wood blocks that I used for chocks and I put one of the blocks between the left side tires and it easily fit between them with about 1/4" space. On the right side, the block wouldn't quite fit.I figure there was about 3/8" difference between the left and right sides.
After I got home, I took the trailer to the only place in the area that aligned trailers and after they jacked up the center of each axle, smacked each one twice with a hammer, charged me about $200, I still had the 3/8 " difference. They told me that the alignment was good, but I would think that the axles would have to be parallel. to each other to be right.
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Old 12-23-2018, 09:16 PM   #5
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One of my equipment trailers has a 5/8" wider tire gap on the drivers side. All is fine as that end of the axle (axle stub) was bent by a big rig trailer repair shop so the tire follows inline the tire in front.
The trailer mfg goofed and didn't get the spring hangers welded to the frame the same on both sides. I run G load tires on this trailer and usually get around 60k miles per tire set. All 4 tires wear flat with no feathering on the edges.

I've noticed tire gap widens and closes as the trailer is pulled over bumpy/bouncy roads as the springs compress and rebound. Also worn spring hangers......suspension bushings and pins.....and worn equalizer bars can contribute to different tire gaps from one side of the trailer to the other.

Read your tires wear patterns. Flat and smooth no problems. Worn tread edges across the tread or one side or both tells us a problem exists.
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:14 PM   #6
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Roads are crowned and parking lots are sloped ,And the guy who welds the spring hangers on the frame is blind in one eye.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:22 PM   #7
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Yes tires will get closer together when springs are compressed


Heavier loads will compress springs more


Tire pressures should be set for heaviest tire on each axle ---both tires/same axle/same pressure


Balancing tires is always good....if it goes round at speed/balance them
Shocks help smooth the bumps/bounce ----add them if you don't have them



Watch your tire wear patterns




Kudos for even paying attention to your tires/axles etc
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Old 12-24-2018, 03:40 PM   #8
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If your trailer has 10,000 miles on it I would bet that your bushings are shot. You can get a wet-bolt kit with bronze bushings to replace the crappy plastic ones it came with. Best money you can spend on the suspension.
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Old 12-25-2018, 09:24 AM   #9
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I just greased all the spring ends and shackles on our 5er. Zerks were already in place when bought. It was creacking badly on turns. No noise now.
This should help leaf springs to move easier and maintain alignment.
Axle spacing is exactly the same on both sides. No unven wear at 10k miles.
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Old 12-25-2018, 09:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Roads are crowned and parking lots are sloped ,And the guy who welds the spring hangers on the frame is blind in one eye.
Maybe, maybe not.
A crown is a parabolic arch. Here in WA state we quit doing crowns around 1970 and switched to a straight slope for highway construction. Also quit using spiral curves and went to just a radius curve.
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Old 12-25-2018, 08:59 PM   #11
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Maybe, maybe not.
A crown is a parabolic arch. Here in WA state we quit doing crowns around 1970 and switched to a straight slope for highway construction. Also quit using spiral curves and went to just a radius curve.
all the secondary roads around here a crowned.
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:55 AM   #12
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Grand Design includes a weight sheet where it was weighted at the factory and here is my side to side weights of the 310GK I owned. This is empty as delivered to the dealer.

Left (street side) 5326
Right (curbside) 4508
Empty from the factory there is an 818 difference between the right and left side pounds. Most of the storage in the kitchen is also on the street side including the pantry. I never weight side to side after I loaded all my stuff aboard.
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:28 AM   #13
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Grand Design includes a weight sheet where it was weighted at the factory and here is my side to side weights of the 310GK I owned. This is empty as delivered to the dealer.

Left (street side) 5326
Right (curbside) 4508
Empty from the factory there is an 818 difference between the right and left side pounds. Most of the storage in the kitchen is also on the street side including the pantry. I never weight side to side after I loaded all my stuff aboard.

Maybe its a good idea to store stuff for traveling in tubs in the dinette area. That is a big area with no weight on the curb side.
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:52 PM   #14
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As an update, when I got the trailer on level pavement, the axles were perfectly equally distanced apart. I think it was that I was turning as I was backing in. I’ll remember in the future to pull straight and take the stress off of the suspension.
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