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Old 02-05-2019, 05:39 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by S_Watkins View Post
Worry more about stopping it that making it go....

No truck brake sysyem is designed to stop a towed vehicle. The braking system is designed for the gvwr of the truck. The trailer brake system is designed to stop the gvwr of the trailer. They work together
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Old 02-05-2019, 02:58 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by dskyward View Post
This is where the war on 3/4 ton axles and 1 ton axles seem to think it’s the same part number separated by 1 spring. Simply adding an extra spring don’t increase the 3/4 ton axles wt rating to 1 ton rating. The 1 ton axle would have more steel in it, higher rated wheel bearings and a more stout differential to tote and power the extra 500 lbs. Otherwise, adding a spring to a half ton axle makes it a fully rated 3/4 ton?

Does anyone have hard proof the above is incorrect?
Its not likely that you could be much more wrong if you tried. Its easy. Get a vin for a srw 1 ton and a 3/4 ton. Call a dealership and tell them you need a rearend gearset and write down the pn they give you. Call another dealer and give them the vin for the other vehicle asking for the same part. Write down the pn and compare. Heck, you could try brake pads if you want something simple, or a master cylinder. Oh, and no, i wont he the one doing this, if you want the proof you have at it, ive done my homework, you can do your own.
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:24 PM   #17
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Using the door sticker for cargo capacity (2026):

20 percent pin weight on GVWR will put you over without any people or hitch in the truck.

20 percent pin weight on empty trailer is 1862 leaving you 164 pounds for people, cargo and 5th wheel hitch.

You don't have enough truck.

You're looking at ~8500 lbs wet and loaded to have the ability to carry the 20% pin weight (1700) and a hitch (150) leaving you 176 lbs for the wife and anything else like tools or, you know, a large soda in the cup holder.
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:55 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jshopes81 View Post
Its not likely that you could be much more wrong if you tried. Its easy. Get a vin for a srw 1 ton and a 3/4 ton. Call a dealership and tell them you need a rearend gearset and write down the pn they give you. Call another dealer and give them the vin for the other vehicle asking for the same part. Write down the pn and compare. Heck, you could try brake pads if you want something simple, or a master cylinder. Oh, and no, i wont he the one doing this, if you want the proof you have at it, ive done my homework, you can do your own.

Rather than call anyone I went to an online gm parts dealer that I have used in the past. Every part you listed is exactly the same. The calipers, rotors and the pads, same part # front and rear. Looked into the axle, same bearings, axles, shocks, housing and differential. Only 2 parts different, the springs and the tires. Even the bolts holding the springs are 1 ton increased capacity on the 3/4. Also my truck has the exhaust brake, same as the 1 ton. I have bought a 2018 GMC Denali Duramax and have been looking at trailers. The cost difference is less than 1k new between the 2. If there were that many different parts the costs would be greater. So all that's needed are air bags and higher rated tires. With these airbags the truck will ride much better. I know I'm taking my chances with weight police, but wanted to share my research.
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Old 02-05-2019, 04:47 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jshopes81 View Post
Its not likely that you could be much more wrong if you tried. Its easy. Get a vin for a srw 1 ton and a 3/4 ton. Call a dealership and tell them you need a rearend gearset and write down the pn they give you. Call another dealer and give them the vin for the other vehicle asking for the same part. Write down the pn and compare. Heck, you could try brake pads if you want something simple, or a master cylinder. Oh, and no, i wont he the one doing this, if you want the proof you have at it, ive done my homework, you can do your own.

You have done your homework and failed the test. A dually would be different but most single rear wheel trucks that have leaf sprung rear ends use the same rear assembly and the only difference is springs and block.

And yes...I have wrenched on a plenty
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Old 02-05-2019, 04:56 PM   #20
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You have done your homework and failed the test. A dually would be different but most single rear wheel trucks that have leaf sprung rear ends use the same rear assembly and the only difference is springs and block.

And yes...I have wrenched on a plenty
What test did i fail? He'll come to the same conclusion that we both did. I wasnt going to just give him the answers.
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Old 02-05-2019, 05:40 PM   #21
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Old 02-05-2019, 06:52 PM   #22
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You have done your homework and failed the test. A dually would be different but most single rear wheel trucks that have leaf sprung rear ends use the same rear assembly and the only difference is springs and block.

And yes...I have wrenched on a plenty
Be careful how you grade the test. AAM (American Axle Manufacturer) who makes rear axles for both Chevy and dodge use the same center section for 2500, 3500, and duallys. Only difference in a 2500 rear and a dually rear is the axle stubs.
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Old 02-05-2019, 09:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Loraura View Post
Using the door sticker for cargo capacity (2026):

20 percent pin weight on GVWR will put you over without any people or hitch in the truck.

20 percent pin weight on empty trailer is 1862 leaving you 164 pounds for people, cargo and 5th wheel hitch.

You don't have enough truck.

You're looking at ~8500 lbs wet and loaded to have the ability to carry the 20% pin weight (1700) and a hitch (150) leaving you 176 lbs for the wife and anything else like tools or, you know, a large soda in the cup holder.

OP is looking at a GVWR 11K 5th wheel and a 2019 2500.
You have a GVWR 11,200# 5th wheel and tow it with a 2013 2500


And you're telling him he will be overloaded.


Both truks have a RAWR 6200#




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Old 02-06-2019, 07:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by cdfinney View Post
Rather than call anyone I went to an online gm parts dealer that I have used in the past. Every part you listed is exactly the same. The calipers, rotors and the pads, same part # front and rear. Looked into the axle, same bearings, axles, shocks, housing and differential. Only 2 parts different, the springs and the tires. Even the bolts holding the springs are 1 ton increased capacity on the 3/4. Also my truck has the exhaust brake, same as the 1 ton. I have bought a 2018 GMC Denali Duramax and have been looking at trailers. The cost difference is less than 1k new between the 2. If there were that many different parts the costs would be greater. So all that's needed are air bags and higher rated tires. With these airbags the truck will ride much better. I know I'm taking my chances with weight police, but wanted to share my research.

Just some food for thought. I did the same research for my 2001 Ram 2500. Ram didn't make a 3500 SRW from 1994 to 2002. I had all the same parts, within reason of a 3500 DRW. GVWR on the 2500 that year was only 8,800# on the 3500 DRW it was only 11,500#. Same rear axle and springs via Camper package.
I never needed to put bags on the truck to be level or for ride, just Bilstein 5100's. I also was with in the anemic rear axle rating of 6,084# based on standard tires, mine were the optional larger tires. The last time I scaled the truck with the 5er, I was at 10,500#, yep 1,700# over GVWR. We had a pin weight of 2,700# on a 5er that weighs 12,500#. We now full time in retirement. The package drove and handled great never an issue pulling or stopping.

BUT being that far over the GVWR, I was concerned with a lawsuit if involved in an accident, my fault or NOT. There are just too many hungry lawyers out there!
In my case we just wanted piece of mind, so now tow the same 5er with a bunch more TV, 2016 Ram 3500 DRW, yep more than I need for now, but moving to a 3500 SRW was just a lateral move.
Keep that in mind, the weight police on the forums never bothered me, I was not worried about being weighed as the package towed level even at 1,700# over without bags. I worried about a lawsuit if we were involved in an accident. Now days with hungry lawyers it doesn't matter if you are at fault or not, they will find a reason to sue.










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Old 02-06-2019, 07:39 AM   #25
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Since the OP has not yet bought the truck or trailer he would be wise to get sufficient carrying capacity rather than try to justify not having enough. Since we all know that our current RV is not the last one, why not "over-truck" for future comfort and safety.

I'll add, when getting a truck resist the temptation to "boy mudder/racer" it. Oversized balloon knobby tires, lift kits and such might look "cool" to some when pulling into the campground, but you will have created an unstable towing platform that has no reasonable way to calculate safe or effective towing capacity. If this has offended some of the "boy racer/mudder" types, GOOD.
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Old 02-06-2019, 07:48 AM   #26
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No one ever complained about too much truck. Get a 3500 dually and go camping.
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Old 02-06-2019, 07:54 AM   #27
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Since the OP has not yet bought the truck or trailer he would be wise to get sufficient carrying capacity rather than try to justify not having enough. Since we all know that our current RV is not the last one, why not "over-truck" for future comfort and safety.

I'll add, when getting a truck resist the temptation to "boy mudder/racer" it. Oversized balloon knobby tires, lift kits and such might look "cool" to some when pulling into the campground, but you will have created an unstable towing platform that has no reasonable way to calculate safe or effective towing capacity. If this has offended some of the "boy racer/mudder" types, GOOD.
Yup. Looking “cool” seems to be more important than having a proper setup for many. Putting loud big mud tires, aftermarket rims and a lift kit seems to be the norm in AZ. I suspect 75% of these type trucks never see dirt, let alone mud. But they must feel better cuz they think they look cool.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:48 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by drwwicks View Post
Since the OP has not yet bought the truck or trailer he would be wise to get sufficient carrying capacity rather than try to justify not having enough. Since we all know that our current RV is not the last one, why not "over-truck" for future comfort and safety.

I'll add, when getting a truck resist the temptation to "boy mudder/racer" it. Oversized balloon knobby tires, lift kits and such might look "cool" to some when pulling into the campground, but you will have created an unstable towing platform that has no reasonable way to calculate safe or effective towing capacity. If this has offended some of the "boy racer/mudder" types, GOOD.
OP, has bought the truck, 2019 GM 2500 SB.
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