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Old 09-11-2012, 09:28 PM   #1
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what grease to use in Axles?

I have a 2010 Alpine 39' fifth and it has made one trip to AZ from Alberta. I should grease the hubs I'm thinking but I am not sure what is the best grease to use. It is a pain that I must remove the 4 tires to get at the grease nipples that I asume are under the hub caps. Oh well I knew it wasn't a boat when I bought it. Anyone know how often they need to be greased and whith what? Should the grease have Moly in it?

Starvin
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:35 PM   #2
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If they use tapered roller bearings, regular wheel bearing grease is the stuff to use. Higher cost synthetics are available also.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:54 AM   #3
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Check the hubcaps again. Looks solid but might have the center section pop out. The local auto parts store will have grease in tubes marked for wheel bearing use.

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Old 09-12-2012, 03:27 PM   #4
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Somewhere in the 40 pounds of manuals that came with your RV, there should be a manual on the axles. It will tell you which grease to use...if it doesn't, call them.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:20 PM   #5
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Amsoil has a high temp bearing grease (synthetic)...
More pricy than AutoZone but stays put & preforms better...
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:38 PM   #6
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Starvin, remember not to go with too much grease. If too much it will push past your grease seals and fling onto your brakes. What is too much? That I have never determined. Possibly your axle literature or someone else can give you an idea of how many "pumps" of the grease gun is required. My 1st greasing..I gave 4 pumps...next 2 yrs..1 pump...Yr 4 I had the drums off and everything looked A-ok
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:01 PM   #7
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If you are referring to the Dexter Ezy-Lube axels I would have some recommendations.
· NEVER USE A POWER GREASE GUN (you will blow out the seals!)
· Rotate the hub/wheel slowly and use a hand grease gun, pumping it SLOWLEY! (you can blow out the seals!)
· As for grease I use the wheel bearing grease that has the highest temperature rating that I can find. I use- Mag1 “high temp disc brake grease” “high dropping point in excess of 500*”
· I believe that TT/5W axles/brakes run warmer than the TV front wheel bearings (2WD)
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:02 PM   #8
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EP-2 grease is what I usualy use.
Pumping in the hubs while turning the wheel is absolute requirements because the inner bearing has to pump the grease itself and not take the easiest path through the seals. If the bearing don't turn, the bearing becomes a blockage and loads the seals.

I also tend to push easy on the grease gun, and if hard I just take easy till the bearing moves the hard grease and feel it on the handle pressure. I am sure in 4 wheels you will experience added pressure required, but do not apply it wait for the bearings to pump it through helping the greasing. Bearings are designed to pump grease and oil naturaly

I will pump grease till it comes out clean. And I surely don't grease every year neither, if well done its trouble free for a long time.
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:30 AM   #9
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Another tip on using hand- pump grease gun: Always make sure the grease is warm. Place it in the sun for a couple hours before using. It will flow easier and you can control the amount being pumped better. You are less likely to blow out a seal.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:46 PM   #10
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I wish I would have waited on greasing. I did grease the axles with high temp bearing grease but I think I have given them too much and I never turned the wheels while doing it. Now what, I have not moved the unit yet but will next month on a long trip.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:50 PM   #11
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Purchase 4 new double lip with garter spring seals, Your owners manual should have the part #s. you should replace the seals each time you pull each wheel. Your local Bearing/Auto supply store will be less expensive than your RV dealer. Jack up your RV, block as necessary for safety.

Then pull each wheel and look to see if there is grease outside the seal on the hub and/or the spindle. If you have driven the unit centrifugal force will sling the grease on to the brake drum/shoe surface. By not pulling the unit it will be much easier to clean up. If there is any grease on the brake shoes clean it off with solvent and roughing the brake shoe material surface with sand paper/emery cloth.

Here’s a hint- use a small cable tie to help hold a 4 inch long piece of Tygon tubing on an extra Zerk fitting. Install a new seal into a hub. Now wipe a thin layer of grease on the spindle sealing surface itself. I even wipe a thin layer of grease on the inside diameter of the sealing surface itself. Put wheel/hub onto the spindle, put your “special” Zerk fitting in to your grease gun. Fill the cavity between the spindle/hub with grease, and then install the pre-lubed outer bearing, flat washer nut locking device etc. Adjust the bearing as to what your owner’s manual indicates. The more grease that you get into the “cavity” the less you will have to fill thru the Zerk on the spindle.

Remember to rotate the wheel/hub and slowly pump the grease gun.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:55 PM   #12
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I should have said that you are not playing the part of the Lone Ranger in doing what you did. The secret is NOT to move the unit before checking.

The problem is that you have to remove the wheels etc in order to check if you blew a seal. You might be lucky!
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:53 PM   #13
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If you are easy on the greasing it will never blow the seals. I experimented on one wheel before doing the other 3. Had to learn fast on the road, the seals were busted or pushed out on 3 out of 4 by improper greasing at the dealer or factory.
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:01 PM   #14
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I wouldnt worry to much. You'll have to shove quite a bit of grease in there to harm the seal. And if you did squeeze in more than the hub can handle, it will simply puke most of the excess out the front as you drive. Yes, it will make a mess on the outside of your wheel too. Bearing Buddy's are great but only problem with them is you have to pump in a lot to get to the inner bearings as only the outer ones get lube first, and there's a lot of space between the inner and the outer bearing. Which is why I wouldn't think you could easily pump that much goop in there without wondering at some point where its all going.

The only thing you really need to make sure of is grease compatibility. Lots of grease types are not completely compatible and certainly would justify making sure you know what was used at the factory.....or completely disassemble everything and clean everything off and start fresh. I'm not totally concerned since most lithium compounds are compatible but just note that Moly compounds usually do NOT like to mix with lithium or much of anything else. It can cause all kinds of problems and stop all lubrication.
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