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Old 01-27-2015, 10:17 AM   #1
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What mods have you done

Just started getting the th out and im always looking to do somthing to it. Usually i have to wait to start camping to see what people are into.
My mods are ive added lights to awning, switched over running lights to leds and hooked them up with blue tooth to switch them on and off, also ive added a blader after my fresh water pump to have constent pressure without short cycles from pump.



2013 315 th kz sportster
2015 3500hd dually dmax allison
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:22 AM   #2
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Look thru this thread
Mods to RVs
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:03 AM   #3
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My best mod was the fence post sewer hose mod.



Also my DIY JT type strong arms.


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Old 01-27-2015, 03:21 PM   #4
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Just added a connection on the trailer cord at camper. Store cord in storage now instead of wrapping around pin. Much neater looking and doesn't corrode from weather.
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
My best mod was the fence post sewer hose mod.



Also my DIY JT type strong arms.


Can you elaborate on the fence post Mod? I cant see it clearly enough.

Also, what is the weight on those jacks? Did it really crack your driveway?
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:44 AM   #6
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You can either make a sewer hose carrier from the plastic fence posts and you can find examples in the mods thread mentioned in an earlier post, or you can just by a sewer hose pipe like I did and screw it to the frame. Either way, it is a great mod! Way nicer than the rear bumper or a plastic basket stored in the basement.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:40 AM   #7
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My fence post mod is made form 5" sq fence post bought at Lowe's or Home Depot. By some caps there too. I hung it to the flanges on the 5er with 1/4" bolts and nylock nuts. I used a pieces of 1" angle as supports under the fence post. I also needed some 1" sq tubing as a spacer to allow the fence post to clear the gas line on the passenger side. I Painted it black to match the rest of the black trim on the 5er. I 1st sanded the gloss off with a red Scotch Brite pad, then sprayed clear paint then topped it with plastic furniture paint. It's held up excellent for 3 years now. The Scotch Brite pad takes the sheen off, the clear adheres to the post and the black finish color adheres to the clear. Learned all this back in the day racing remote control cars with plastic bodies.


LOL on the driveway. No the 5er didn't crack it. It's raised up because the original owners planted a willow tree about 3' from the drive way. Years of root growth pushed up the concrete where you see it. At the other end the concrete is actually being pushed down. A new driveway is planned for this summer.
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post

Also my DIY JT type strong arms.



Did you ever do a DIY writeup on how you made them?
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:25 PM   #9
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Where do I begin...
These are just some of the mods I did to our 2013 Montana 3150RL:
1) rewired the hitch light to come on with the right side security lights so my Wife can see along the door side of the coach to load stuff into the truck while hooking up.
2) rewired the step side clearance light to come on with the porch light to give better lighting to the steps when climbing and standing on the steps to unlock the door.
3) installed a pull shade over the shower. ($7.00 at lowes instead of $60.00 from camping world)
4) relocated the 50 amp power cord hookup from the back to the left side Mid-section of the coach.
5) refabbed the king size bed pedestal to allow our preferred queen size mattress. (Now my Wife has room to dress and make the bed.)
6) install access doors to allow access to the sewer valves for repair/replacement.
7) replaced the lousy black tank flush vacuum beaker which kept leaking in the bathroom with a one way high volume check valve. (The flush system really works like a champ now.)
8) installed additional AC power outlets along bed and kitchen counters. (They're never in the right place or have enough of them.)
9) installed slide out tray in basement for small honda generator. (Couldn't see loosing all that needed storage area up front.)
10) installed access door for water lines and pump in basement behind docking center.
11) installed additional sewer hose carriers under frame. (Found used 5" pvc water line at construction yard. ($10.00 for two 8 footers.)
12) installed magnetic wiring plugs for pickup to coach pigtail. (No more fighting the loose connectons and silly spring clips. This item works without worry and never falls out.)
If interested in any of these mods, contact me for pics.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:49 AM   #10
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My DIY JT's are made from 3/4" ID pipe and 3/4" solid rod stock. I used 3/4" (socket size) nuts and bolts for tightening. On the ends I used some scrap channel for the brackets. IIRC it was 2-1/4" ID on the lower and 1" on the top brackets. The middle bracket that holds the two cross diagonal ones is from 2" angle iron. The bolts are 3/8" uppers and I don't remember the lower size. It would be whatever is close to the hole size in the front jacks. I remember drilling out my front jacks to get a perfect fit though.


I also installed one single diagonal on the rear, which I believe is the key to making it solid. You can still get movement in the rear because of tire sidewall flex. One single diagonal brace in the rear removes all side to side movement.
Here's a pic of the rear. It was a little trick to make since the stab jack was for whatever reason was put on at an angle. I made a plate that I welded to the stab base to fasten the diagonal brace to. I then did the same on the other end as the fronts. Just used some scrap channel and bolted it to the lower flange on the 5er frame.

Hers the front upper bracket.
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
My DIY JT's are made from 3/4" ID pipe and 3/4" solid rod stock. I used 3/4" (socket size) nuts and bolts for tightening. On the ends I used some scrap channel for the brackets. IIRC it was 2-1/4" ID on the lower and 1" on the top brackets. The middle bracket that holds the two cross diagonal ones is from 2" angle iron. The bolts are 3/8" uppers and I don't remember the lower size. It would be whatever is close to the hole size in the front jacks. I remember drilling out my front jacks to get a perfect fit though.


I also installed one single diagonal on the rear, which I believe is the key to making it solid. You can still get movement in the rear because of tire sidewall flex. One single diagonal brace in the rear removes all side to side movement.
Here's a pic of the rear. It was a little trick to make since the stab jack was for whatever reason was put on at an angle. I made a plate that I welded to the stab base to fasten the diagonal brace to. I then did the same on the other end as the fronts. Just used some scrap channel and bolted it to the lower flange on the 5er frame.
Nice job!!

We have hydraulic stabilizers and front landing gear and still get quite a bit of wobble. I think I may have to try to fabricate a set of these, that work with the hydraulics... If that is even possible!
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